Selection, comparison and discussion of the use of USB testers / "USB doctors" | USB tester to check chargers, cables and lithium batteries



Rep: (677)
And what about the load?
I saw three types available:
1. 2 * 10W Resistoror4 * 10W Resistor
2. RD Load resistor 15worHIDANCE Load resistor 35w
3. RD LD25 LD35orRD HD25 HD35



Rep: (67)
I will try to answer these questions in a few steps.
I will gradually edit and update this message.
I’ll cite later, I’ll probably add them under spoilers.




Karloson @ 11/18/18 09:48*
bl0nde @ 11/18/2018, 00:53 *
Example:
Set 1 HIDANCE 12 in 1 + 2 * 10W Resistor for 377r
Set 2 HIDANCE 9 in 1 + 4 * 10W Resistor for 473r
Sobsno need to check a bunch of cables, adapters, the capacity of several banks, smartphones and tablets.
So I do not understand what I need in the end.

Suitable for testing banks, batteries and smartphones / tablets batteries, but not for testing cables - they do not have micro and / or bluetooth inputs.


bl0nde @ 11/18/18, 10:10*
And what about the load?
I saw three types available:
1. 2 * 10W Resistor or 4 * 10W Resistor
2. RD Load resistor 15w or HIDANCE Load resistor 35w
3. RD LD25 LD35 or RD HD25 HD35

bl0nde @ 11/18/18, 09:55*
[email protected], 09:48 *
Suitable for testing banks, batteries and smartphones / tablets batteries, but not for testing cables - they do not have micro and / or bluetooth inputs.

There are adapters for this, although there will also be losses on them.
It turns out to be better to take the option above, but the one that is simpler:
HIDANCE 12 in 1 + HIDANCE Load resistor 35w


1st part

Initially, we formulate the problem:
Initially you need:
Sobsno need to check a bunch of cables, adapters, the capacity of several banks, smartphones and tablets.
So I do not understand what I need in the end.

Those. tasks to solve:
1. Measurement of large containers (telephones, banks)
2. Measurement of resistance of cables and, possibly, adapters.Cable type assume the most common Micro USB & Type C
What else makes sense to clarify:
Tasks that are not mentioned, but that affect the selection of equipment:
1. Not mentioned the need to measure the capacity of small batteries. We believe so far that we do not need greater current accuracy.
2. Not mentioned the need to work with fast charging modes QC2 / 3, etc. We believe so far that working with these modes is not required. Ie we think so far that work with increased voltages 7-9-12 -...? 25? B is not needed. Also for this reason, we believe that the very same "triggers" of the load that allow the load to pretend to be "smart" are not needed
3. Not mentioned the need to check the limits of the operation of networked chargers as such. On the basis of PP.2 and 3, we believe for the time being that loads greater than 10-15 W (2-3 A at 5 V) are not necessary.
4. Not mentioned the need to check the limit operation* multiport * network chargers and banks, when checking the total possible load on several ports at the same time (that is, when the source has two or more large loads simultaneously). We believe so far that the second tester is not mandatory for us.

2 part.
So, according to Part 1, it turns out that the case seems to be relatively simple.
Complication - only the desire to measure the resistance of cables.
That is, in order to cover the problem of measuring resistance, we need some of these options:
Option 1:
Tester with built-in resistance measurement mode + almost any load, including discrete. But to increase the accuracy of measuring resistance, it is still better to smoothly adjust the load (as we found above in the topic - instructions for measuring resistance, for example, the UM34 tester asks to adjust the current at the second stage of measuring resistance exactly to the value obtained at the first stage)
A tester is needed with those additional micro usb / type c input connectors that correspond to cables whose resistance we plan to evaluate.
Option 2:
Two almost any testers + almost any load, but better regulated so that when measuring cable resistance we set a load current exactly 1A (then the resistance can be considered in mind by subtracting the output voltage from the input voltage ... otherwise you will have to use the calculator to make the difference divide by amperage :))
Here at least one of the two testers also need micro usb / type c input connectors
Option 3:
Almost any tester + adjustable load, which is built ammeter and voltmeter.
Here, we also need micro usb / type c input connectors, but not with the tester, but with adjustable load.
Resistance will be calculated in the mind or on the calculator by the voltage difference between the input (tester) and output (load) divided by the amperage.
(I do not have such a load with a voltmeter and an ammeter ... there is no experience ... theoretically a problem is possible if the voltmeter in the load is not very accurate)

About adapters Immediately here let's talk
Their use to determineabsoluteCable resistance values ​​are not very desirable.
Almost all adapters make a very significant increase in resistance.
They can increase the estimate of resistance by 1.5-2 times, judging by my attempts to determine the resistance of the adapters themselves. The best figure I remember for adapter resistances was about 0.05 ohms. And the best cable I came across was about 0.12 ohms ... Ie added an adapter - made 40% error
But ... if the task allows us to reformulate it into "comparing different cables by resistance and identifying the best ones" (let's call it "relative"measuring resistance), then the adapters will prevent us only to compare the resistance of different types of cables (compare micro usb cables with Type c, for example).
Those. it can be understood that this cable with connector X together with an adapter has less resistance than another cable * with the same connector X * and the same adapter (since the resistance of the adapter used can be assumed constant)


3 part
... in the editing process ...

Consider specific options

bl0nde @ 11/18/18, 01:11*
VitaliyK @ 12.10.18, 18:07 *
b) “Well, all-inclusive”: one main accurate USB tester is more expensive, one auxiliary USB tester is simpler; one electronic regulated load is more expensive; one load is simpler with fixed resistance values


Call itOption A:

Immediately for reference, write down the price tags (on 2018-11-18) of the components upon delivery to the Russian Federation with tracking
UM34C + HD35 - $ 30.99
RD AT34 - $ 9.99
RD Load resistor 15w - $ 6.46-6.84

Does this "maximum" set the tasks - yes.
Advantages:
This kit will allow you to solve all the additional tasks that I listed above after the phraseTasks that are not mentioned, but that affect the selection of equipment:. BUT! It is important that you need to choose the option in the first position with the load of HD35, and not LDxx, because it supports fast charge trigger mode (in the description of HDxx there is a phrase “Quick charge trigger mode - QC2.0 5V 9V 、 12V 、 20V, QC3.0, FCP, AFC9V”, it’s not written about the load LDxx)
Resistance can be measured even with four connection options, since We have three voltmeters - a UM34 tester, a voltage difference between two UM34-AT34 testers and a voltage difference UM34-HDxx or AT34-HDxx
Disadvantages:
The price tag is not at all humane - $ 47 for 2 testers 2 loads ... There is a feeling that these prices are currently slightly overestimated, 10% percent ... I am guided by the price of UM34C - now it is declared $ 19.99.
I bought the UM34C at a sale on August 29 like this: 986.61 rubles for the Central Bank / or $ 14.64 (17.94 price -3.30 coupon AliExpress (5/25))
Those. even without a coupon, the price used to be $ 17.94
Probably no need to hurry, you must wait for coupons, etc. :)

Call itOption B:
or easier option:
HIDANCE 12 in 1 + HIDANCE Load resistor 35w + HIDANCE 9 in 1 + 2 * 10W Resistor

/... Option B - while delayed ... in the editing process ... /


Separately asked questions

bl0nde @ 11/18/18, 01:53*
As far as I do not understand the difference in price between the RD UM25C and RD UM34C due to the presence of the first port OUT Type-C?
Are there functional differences?

I have both of these testers.
The main differences (UM25C / UM34C), except for the additional output connector for the product description:
1. maximum current - 5A / 4A
2. voltage readings, decimal places - 3 (0.001) / 2 (0.01)
3. current readings, decimal places - 4 (0.0001) / 3 (0.001)
4. Type of USB ports - (USB2 / USB3)
What I noticed myself
N + 1. At low currents (2-3 mA) there is a feeling that the UM34 is grafting.
(I have a backlight on one magnetic charging cable - its consumption for UM25C is 2.4 mA, and for UM34C it is 1 mA ... it may, of course, lie for UM25C, but this is less logical)

And what is the difference RD HD35 vs RD LD35

I have neither one nor the other. But, judging by the description, a trigger is built into HDxx that allows you to simulate a load that is compatible with different standards of fast charging, which is not in LDxx

/... "Minimum optimal set" - while delayed ... in the editing process ... /

Well, the question to:
VitaliyK @ 12.10.18, 18:07 *
a) "Minimum optimal set": USB tester; adjustable load; we will find the rest in stocks.

Example:
Set 1 HIDANCE 12 in 1 + 2 * 10W Resistor for 377r
Set 2 HIDANCE 9 in 1 + 4 * 10W Resistor for 473r
Sobsno need to check a bunch of cables, adapters, the capacity of several banks, smartphones and tablets.
So I do not understand what I need in the end.


Post has been editedVitaliyk - 19.11.18, 00:11



Rep: (677)
VitaliyK @ 11/18/18 13:10*
N + 1. At low currents (2-3 mA) there is a feeling that the UM34 is grafting.

It is strange that it scribes, because in many reviews are collected on the same chip.

What is the maximum set seemed too expensive.
I do not intend to check the memory and parallel-powered carats at the moment.
In the presence of such memory noname (REd Line) 1A + 1A and poverbankUGREEN PB108still on the road, and planned to use only with one device.
If you want to check the charge drop from a sporting interest when connecting a 2nd device, you can get by with one pair - connect the device to one output through a tester, and the other to an adjustable load.
In general, I decided to take the minimum, but for better quality and in the end I ordered a set of RD UM34C + HD35, it is not unbearable to wait.
In principle, the order has not yet been sent and you can cancel it if the choice is not good for my tasks.

Post has been editedbl0nde - 19.11.18, 03:30



Rep: (67)
Well, if it is unbearable, then it's ok, IMHO ... It's just, I think, by the end of the year on Ali, probably some other coupons will be distributed to get the price down ...
PS: I then, once the order is made, while I pause for a few days in writing here ...



Rep: (677)
VitaliyK @ 11/19/18, 08:22*
Simply, I think, by the end of the year on Ali, probably some other coupons will be distributed to bring down the price ...

Surely, at the moment the official is not the lowest price.



Rep: (168)
Icecooler @ 11/23/18, 18:22*
recommend

I have smartphones and devices with a non-removable battery. How is your tester better than a white doctor with a price tag ten times smaller?



Rep: (2)
Auto detection of fast charging: Yes - QC 2.0 / 3.0

- Features: Connect to PC (via cable or bluetooth, to phone on Android (via bluetooth)



Rep: (168)
* icecooler
My goals are more primitive. A knowledge of the category - first encountered. There are several devices with AB not less than 1000 mAh. We need to know the capacity of batteries. I ordered the simplest tester for 3 bucks (white doctor) and load (since one of the devices has the function of a bank paver. Although it was possible to use any smartphone as a load).
On the level (which is correct) they can not be checked that with steep for a million, with cheap for 3 dollars. It remains to check when charging. And it does not matter whether there is a QC or not. After all, you can charge a gadget with fast charging function with a simple charger, without this technology.

Questions:
1. Where was I wrong? do people buy testers 10 times more expensive? I think the transfer of Ah to Wh can handle it.
2. What percentage should be subtracted from the tester's capacity when charging to get capacity values ​​close to reality?



Rep: (67)
Questions:
1. Where was I wrong? do people buy testers 10 times more expensive?

I am not campaigning for testers at all, which is 10 times more expensive than a white doctor.
But nevertheless, I will try to repeat what I had previously "smeared" on the first posts of this topic.
On the example of purchase
* icecooler
What did this forumchanin get for $ 39 (in that message the price was not written, so I brought the current price of this product to Ali)?
A tester with fairly accurate readings of current, voltage, Amp-hours, Watt-hours, with the ability to measure cable resistance, with the ability to monitor and control via Bluetooth, and another smoothly controlled load with a variety of input connectors and it is in one device.
Is $ 39 expensive?
Well, to be honest, even it seems to me that it's a little expensive.
But not at all 10 times.
The white doctor from the listed is several times less functional.
I would, for example, take almost the same thing asicecooler only not all in one, but separately.
Well, it would have been not $ 39, but $ 15-20 for a tester and $ 7-9 for a load — that is, $ 22-29
I think the transfer of Ah to Wh can handle it.

With all due respect, hardly. This should be tried under the watchful eye of critics, of course :)
/ added later: / Here is a curious message about the measurement of capacity with the help of programs and testers - this is an analogue of what needs to be done when manually “integrating” the capacity in Wh and Ah
Asus ZenFone Max Pro (M1) ZB602KL - Discussion

2. What percentage should be subtracted from the tester's capacity when charging to get capacity values ​​close to reality?

I will give a link and a quote a little later - in the topic of power consumption, the Asus ZB602KL man conducted tests with disassembling and disconnecting the battery from the phone.

So far, in advance, the numbers are from memory (I’ll correct later if I messed up):
For a battery with a marketing capacity of 5000 mAh (with a minimum capacity declared as 4850):
With a normal full charge, the typical capacity figure is 4400-4500 mAh (these are my numbers).
When fully * discharged * with the battery disconnected from the phone -4850 mAh4867 mAh (at a discharge current of 700 mA)
With full * charge *off(it is written that when the phone is off, IMHO, and with the shutdown and when the phone is turned off, it doesn’t matter) the battery from the phone -4980 mAh4944 mAh

Well, here is a link to the message with the test:
Power Consumption Asus ZenFone Max Pro (M1) ZB602KL (Post N1Kson89 # 79272786)

For the sake of safety, I will cite a full quote on 2018-11-25 (the message has already been transferred from topic to topic, no matter how lost it is)
Copy for history
N1Kson89 @ 11/21/18 12:20*
Maybe someone will be interested. I checked the actual battery capacity to discharge.
Disassembled machine. Pre-fully charged battery, on the machine off. Checked in this way, not one battery. The instrument is calibrated. Discharge time is almost 7 hours. Discharge current 0.7a. Capacity out 4867mach. In the rules fit. Checked Redmi Note 5 there, too, closer to the minimum rate. 3900mach.
Also checked the USB charge tester (calibrated current and voltage). Charge 0% off. Initial current 1.7A. Entered 25Wh. As expected. Capacity 4944mach. Time 4.5 hours.
I used the complete memory and cable. The charger issues up to 2.2A and heats up to 50-55 degrees. Voltage 5-5.2V.
#
Attached images
Reduced by 88% Attached Image 4000 x 2000 (2.26 MB)
Reduced by 88% Attached image 4000 x 2000 (1.44 MB)
Reduced by 88% Attached Image 4000 x 3000 (2.46 MB)
I apologize to the author, I made resize and crop of his photos "
Attached Image

Attached Image

Attached Image

Post has been editedN1Kson89 - 11.21.18, 13:40


Findings:
  • Those. For this test, it is clear that the minimum capacity declared by the manufacturer is 4850 mAh and the battery is honestly given.
  • It is seen that the deviation from the marketing capacity of 3%
  • The loss in charge (4944 mAh) relative to the discharge (4867) is 1.5-2% ... i.e.Efficiency "numerical efficiency in ampere-hours"lithium charge, it turns out 98-98,5% (seeNote below)
  • Additionally, since and I, and other users of the same phone and battery, repeatedly measured the charge capacity in the "usual way" without disassembling and disconnecting the battery, and using different testers almost always the full charge capacity figures of about 4500 mAh plus or minus 100 mAh, we can assume that the manufacturer lays at least 10% of capacity in stock. Ie, answering the question above, it turns out that having received a certain number X* ampere-hour capacity *with a normal charge through the tester, it is possible to obtainreal containers * in the same amp hours *add (not subtract, but add) about 10%, ignoring charge efficiency


Note
The findings above were later corrected regarding the use of the term efficiency.
Corrections are made based on the discussion in QMS, which I will quote here
N1Kson89:
Hey.
I want to correct a little. Lithium charge efficiency is not 98%.
It is necessary to look at watt hours.
The charge is spent 25W * hour. And it turns out about 18.7vatt * hour .. Efficiency about 74-75%.

There already will calculate themselves more accurately. Capacity is multiplied by 3.85v. and get watt watches. And when charging a voltage of 5V. According to this and more energy to spend.

Usually consider the efficiency of about 70%. But the voltage difference is 5.0-5.2v and 3.85v is also about 74-77%. From this it turns out that the capacity spent on charge, and the discharge of the battery, is almost equal. I believe that capacity is a fairly simple and conditional measurement.


I fully agree with these comments. Even somewhere above on the topic about it was mentioned ...
The original text was written in some haste, and now corrected.
The meaning of corrections is that efficiency is usually used as a ratio of useful and spent energy or power. This term cannot be used directly with the values ​​measured in ampere hours.

Post has been editedVitaliyk - 27.11.18, 16:29



Rep: (5)
Recently purchased a USB tester RD UM25C. Now I want to buy an active load for testing the memory. Chose HD35. However, different sellers have a different brand, for example - MiLESEEY, WeiHeng, does it matter or can we safely choose from the seller who has the lower price tag?
For example, the lowest price tag on Alihere, hereandhere. But there are no reviews. On ebay even cheaper -hereandhere. Should I buy? Or advise another store or site.

Post has been editedErkki - 28.11.18, 02:35



Rep: (67)
* Erkki,
This question about "you can safely choose from the seller, who has a lower price tag" rather for the topicClub lovers overseas shopping :)
But, since there is at least the last year - "Sodom and Gomorrah" - such traffic that it is difficult to ask something and then read the answers, it’s difficult to figure out what the seller’s choice is here.
Everything below - exclusively IMHO.
About purchases on eBay:
In the past year or two, I personally almost stopped buying there.
Not that there was any loss of money or anything else.
Simply, compared to Ali, everything is somehow less convenient.
Reviews about a particular product is not clear how to find.
How to choose shipping with tracking is also unclear.
Almost everything that costs up to $ 10 with an 80% chance will be sent without tracking without a tracker.
While the beztreki still successfully reached me, with 80-90% probability, I ordered something there.
But a year ago in my post office, the statistics turned and now the trackless now almost everything disappears.
PayPal, of course, is a big plus, but if you start arguing in 80% of orders, nothing good will end.
And without PayPal, what's the point?
Although, according to the latest losses, the money was returned instantly.
But I don’t want to ban PayPal and I stopped purchasing on eBay, at least until they make a normal opportunity to simply and clearly choose delivery with full tracking to the recipient.
Those. if it is you who have a good statistics on the trackless files, you can probably take it cheaper if it’s cheaper - yet double eBay + PayPal protection
The price tag, by the way, is less than Ali exactly at the cost of normal tracking - by $ 2-3

About other stores:
Sometimes I take something on GearBest, paying PayPal exclusively.
But on the HD35 there * is now * twice the price tag than on Ali (about $ 22).
And this is such a kind of shop that I’m afraid to recommend buying someone else there, even if all of a sudden the price would be the same as on Ali.
If you want to get acquainted with the howling and weeping of the members of the forum on purchases in GB - there is such a topic -The online store Gearbest.com really low prices

JD - a little experience, and the search for HD35, HD25, LD35, LD25 did not give me anything useful.

DX and others - no experience.

Aliexpress
Ali stayed.

Those three links that you gave - they are like twin brothers.
It even seems that these are all sellers, in fact, in reality, the same store under different signs. There it is often practiced.
Identical increases for different types of delivery for all three. For example, for $ 0.55 for AliExpress Standard Shipping (I try to use this type of delivery, especially in such cases, when there are small doubts about the sellers). And prices are usually compared with this
All three stores have almost identical overall and private ratings.
All three stores have rather amusing names hinting that they initially traded with something non-technical, but then changed the direction of trade to an instrument. If you start to translate the names - "home fashion from Lolita", etc. it becomes funny :)
But, in fact, in all three of these stores, I think it is quite possible to take this load (HD35), if it is important to save money.
All these three stores for the last six months have been trading precisely with tools and similar equipment, despite their merry names.
The only thing I noticed from a little suspicious is that the first link is to the store for one product (the vast majority of sales are one product — replaceable tips for a soldering iron), the other two have a little more variety — the basis is half a dozen goods, and not one.

I took one of my testers in a similar shop - I have no particular complaints.
This product is not particularly running and there is no reason to hope for an informative selection of feedback ... Actually, only the official RD store has at least some feedback on this product ... Therefore, even if these are not original RuiDeng devices, but clones, then without reviews only telepaths will be able to say something - how good are these clones :)


And separate questions:
Maybe if you save, it makes sense to take HD25? There, judging by the description, the maximum current and power is slightly less, but it seems to me that 4A should suffice.
Support for devices with fast charging really need?
Is the built-in voltage / current indicator exactly needed?
Maybe it makes sense to wait for some sales and distribution of coupons for Ali? This usually allows you to take these products for $ 1-2 cheaper, and this is the difference in price that is now visible between the "official" RD store (https: //www.aliexpress....0-USB/32917594486.html, now $ 11.55 option HD35 + optional surcharge $ 1.58 for Ali Standard Shipping) and others

... The link to Ali forum somehow modifies beyond recognition ...
Here is the direct link:
https://ru.aliexpress.com/item/RD-HD25-HD35-QC2-0-QC3-0-USB/32917594486.html


Something like this...

Post has been editedVitaliyk - 28.11.18, 14:16
Reason for editing: ochepyatki ... + added a little ... + spoilers



Rep: (5)
* VitaliyK,
Thanks for the detailed response.
The goal is not worth saving. The goal is to buy a quality load, if they are all the same, why not search at a lower price. As I understand it, these are all RD clones, do not tell me where you would recommend to buy this device, if it doesn’t make it difficult for you, you can link to this device from the officials?
VitaliyK @ 11/28/18, 12:02*
Maybe if you save, it makes sense to take HD25? There, judging by the description, the maximum current and power is slightly less, but it seems to me that 4A should suffice.
Support for devices with fast charging really need?
Is the built-in voltage / current indicator exactly needed?
Additional functionality HD35 compared with HD25 and LD35 is not chosen by chance, but for the future. I think it's better to buy one device once, than to buy a new one. At the moment there is no memory with fast charging, but there is a memory capable of delivering current up to 3.8 A per port (according to the manufacturer).



Rep: (67)
vtorofff @ 09.11.18, 19:28*
VitaliyK @ 9.11.18, 16:07 *
Now a lot of time has already passed - it is possible that the operating system can now measure the strength of the current coming from or to the battery, but, unfortunately, this information has not yet come to me.

Here is a program that shows the charging and discharging current. But I do not know if she can sum up.
GSam Battery Monitor

Hands reached the answer ...
I dug a little this topic, regardless of the specific program used.
Because I did not know anything about the details of the implementation of the measurement of currents in Android, and did not know who to ask, I dug like this:
I looked at the permissions (rights in the OS) that the GSam Battery Monitor uses.
Found what looks like reading permissions for interesting information for us - "read battery statistics".
I started to google code samples on the developer forums using the permission types found.

I found, at first glance, optimistic information that there are now libraries, classes (the key class is BatteryManager) and methods that return, presumably, what can be used to measure currents and capacitance

That's where my search ended
Quotes and links (penultimate stage)
Link:
http://qaru.site/quest…ertycurrentnow-to-work

How can I make BATTERY_PROPERTY_CURRENT_NOW work?
I am trying to create an application that displays battery status and battery information for one of my projects. I want to show the instantaneous current and power supply in the application, but I did not succeed, to make it work, I do not get current information and information about the source, it just stays at 2 and is connected to AC power. I would appreciate if you can help me with the code

пїЅ


ANSWER
Instead of registering for the ACTION_BATTERY_CHANGED translation, follow these steps:

BatteryManager mBatteryManager = (BatteryManager) Context.getSystemService (Context.BATTERY_SERVICE);

Then use mBatteryManager to capture any mBatteryManager information. If you want it for a certain period of time, AlarmManager can be useful.

As a note, not all phones can give you instant power or some other indicators you can look for. As far as I know, the Nexus 6 phones are the only ones that give instant power. Here is a good link to better help you.https: //source.android...tech/power/device.html



At the end of the quote there is a link to a certain directory on android.com
If you go there


Quotes (last stage, not enough time to dig)
Link:
https: //source.android...tech/power/device.html
...
Available properties

Android supports the following battery fuel gauge properties:

BATTERY_PROPERTY_CHARGE_COUNTER Remaining battery capacity in microampere-hours
BATTERY_PROPERTY_CURRENT_NOW Instantaneous battery battery in microamperes
BATTERY_PROPERTY_CURRENT_AVERAGE Average battery current in microamperes
BATTERY_PROPERTY_CAPACITY Remaining battery capacity as an integer percentage
BATTERY_PROPERTY_ENERGY_COUNTER Remaining energy in nanowatt-hours

Most properties are read from kernel power_supply subsystem attributes of similar names. However, it’s possible to depend on:

Fuel gauge hardware, such as a Summit SMB347 or Maxim MAX17050.
Fuel gauge-to-system connection, such as the external sense senseors.
Fuel gauge chip configuration, such as the values ​​for the average computation intervals in the kernel driver.
...

And then the enumeration of examples of devices, and properties that can read these devices.
And not all devices can read what you need to know to determine the capacity.
... The total error is 5.5mA (2.75%). Compare this to a small current (50mA) where the same error percentages where to get a small current (15mA) where +/- 1.5mA gives a total error of 10%.

For best results, we recommend measuring greater than 20mA. There are a lot of measurement errors that can be measured and repeatable for the 1.5mA offset. ...


From what I could understand without a dictionary, I came to somewhat pessimistic conclusions:
Not all devices are equipped with the listed measuring units ("Fuel gauge hardware, such as a Summit SMB347 or Maxim MAX17050")
In devices equipped with the necessary meters, the error can reach up to 10%

So far for myself, I, as before, decided to proceed from the fact that these programs, at least with some phone models, simulate current and capacitance figures and that I will rely more on external hardware meters.

But!!! DISCLAIMER:
I immediately confess - in English I am not particularly strong. Could understand something wrong.
And there was no time to study this topic more than a couple of hours already spent for me ... and there was no particular desire to go deep either.
If someone refutes my conclusions with evidence on hand, I will only be happy, but I myself pass for another year - another
Those who wish to continue the search makes sense to look for a discussion of the code for android using the BatteryManager class.


Post has been editedVitaliyk - 28.11.18, 16:56



Rep: (677)
Came kitRD UM34C + HD35.
Now you need to check:
- chargerUgreen USB Charger 18W Quick Charge 3.0 Mobile Phone Charger for iPhone Fast QC 3.0 Chargeron currents and support fast charging.
- cableUgreen 5A USB Type C Cable Super Fast Cable USB 3.1 Fast Charger Data Type-Cat 5A and support fast charging.
- power bankUgreen Power Bank 10000mAh Portable Type C Fast Charging Powerbankcapacity, support fast charging.
It remains to find the instructions in Russian and figure out how to do all this: scratch_one-s_head:



Rep: (67)
bl0nde @ 11/29/18, 16:36*
figure out how to do it all

It will probably be obvious, but just in case I will try to give some indirectly related tips:

When we check something included in the 220V network, it is better not to do this by connecting the devices to the wall outlet directly.
First, uncomfortable
secondly, such a “posture” can break the connectors if it hangs in the air,
thirdly, it can heat up, even float, and other horrors ...
It makes sense to use some kind of 220V extension so that your measuring composition is convenient somewhere.lay , but not hung.
If possible, we monitor previously untested devices - visually, and we smell, of course.
In case of problems, we do not grab hands, for example, s / y, but pull out the extension cord from the socket and wait for it to cool

If you want to check the temperature of something, we don’t grab it.
First, lightly tap, for example, with the back of your fingers (especially for metallic electrically conductive elements).
If everything is normal, then use the pads of the fingers.

IMHO, to a 5-watt resistor in a discrete load, the pad of your finger can stick to a couple of seconds: (



Rep: (677)
I checked the cables and adapters that I use.
Tester RD UM34C, load RD HD35 configured for 3A and memory UGREEN QC3.0.
Connected directly to the tester in the memory, the load in the tester:
Attached Image

Compensating voltage without cables 5.3V i.e. + 6%.

Further, between the memory and the tester connected various cables.

- new Ugreen USB-C 1m 5A cable:
Attached Image

Cable resistance is 0.053О©, I think it is excellent.

- Ugreen USB-C to USB-micro QC2.0 adapter + USB-C 1m Ugreen 5A cable is new:
Attached Image

Adapter resistance 0.037О©, I suppose perfectly.

- noname USB-micro 0.15m 1 year cable:
Attached Image

Cable resistance is 0.100О©, I suppose well.

BlackView USB-micro to USB-C adapter + noname USB-micro 0.15m cable 1 year
Attached Image

Adapter resistance 0.043О©, I suppose excellent.

- Ugreen USB-C 0.25m flat cable new:
Attached Image

Cable resistance is 0.063О©, I think it is excellent.

- Huawei USB-C 1m QC2.0 cable is almost new:
Attached Image

Cable resistance is 0.133О©, I suppose well.

- PISEN USB-micro 0.20m flat cable 2 years:
Attached Image

Cable resistance is 0.113О©, I suppose well.

- BlackView USB-C 1m cable 1 year:
Attached Image

Cable resistance is 0.187О©, I suppose normal.

- Sony USB-micro 1m cable:
Attached Image

The cable resistance is 0.273О©, I suppose it is bad, but by the way, it has been in active use for 5 years, it has been worn heavily.

- Wsken USB-micro 2m 180 В° flat new cable:
Attached Image

Cable resistance 0.343О©, I suppose very bad.

- Wsken USB-C 2m 180 В° flat new cable:
Attached Image

Cable resistance 0.440О©, I believe the marriage.
After a few seconds, the tester turned off, after several attempts, caught a moment before the protection tripped:
Attached Image

obvious overheating, the cable itself is also noticeably warm.
The fact that the load worked did not affect my decision to open a dispute with the seller on Ali.


Post has been editedbl0nde - 03.12.18, 09:28



Rep: (67)
bl0nde @ 03.12.18, 09:23*
The fact that the load worked did not affect my decision to open a dispute with the seller on Ali.

Dispute on a tester or on a wire?

In general, IMHO, to test the wires, if they are not specifically designed for currents greater than 2A, the current in 3A is not entirely correct.

All the fuss, for example, around fast charging is done by manufacturers to push more watts through the wire, but without exceeding a current of 2A, which is usually charged with charging connectors in the technology and, probably, connectors in cables too .

In the first two cables, 5A is clearly stated - there the check on high currents is correct, and with the others it is not clear by name.

Ie, IMHO, all "ordinary" cables with resistance up to 0.2-0.3 Ohm can be considered good, because they will allow a current of about 1.5-2 A and at the same time the voltage will not drop below the allowable 4.5-4.75 V

But with the graphs from the tester - some kind of strangeness - peaks-bursts of current and voltage on the graphs ...
Here they are confused.
Even scare.
Jumps up to 9 volts somewhere ...
If this is not a glitch, but real output voltage spikes on s / y - I would be afraid to use it.

PS: All testers are disconnected when the voltage drops below 4 V, some closer to 3.5 V - this is normal, maybe it is not overheating, but there simply wasn’t enough voltage to work correctly and therefore, the readings are “digital trash” ... though of course everything is possible ...



Rep: (335)
VitaliyK @ 11/28/18, 15:49*
Hands reached the answer ...
Well, I just shared that there are already such programs.
There is still a progAccuBatteryIt seems to measure the capacity of the battery.

Post has been editedvtorofff - 03.12.18, 12:45



Rep: (677)
VitaliyK @ 03.12.18, 11:14*
Dispute on a tester or on a wire?

on the wire of course, on the last one.

VitaliyK @ 03.12.18, 11:14*
In general, IMHO, to test the wires, if they are not specifically designed for currents greater than 2A, the current in 3A is not entirely correct.

All the fuss, for example, around fast charging is done by manufacturers to push more watts through the wire, but without exceeding a current of 2A, which is usually charged with charging connectors in the technology and, probably, connectors in cables too .

The ugreen A5 cable was bought separately, everything is clear by name.
Ugreen 0.25m cable - complete from qc2.0 crib
The adapter ugreen qc2.0 was bought separately.
The huawei cable is complete from mediapad m5pro with qc2.0 support
wsken cable was bought separately fromsold3A support stated:
Attached Image

The rest is simpler without a claim to large currents:
noname 0.15m purchased in Euroset for sony bank that is required in the data line cable.
The pisen cable from a certain bank, donated, has only charging lines.
Blackview cable and adapter complete from bw7000
sony cable from xperia v (lt25i)

VitaliyK @ 03.12.18, 11:14*
But with the graphs from the tester - some kind of strangeness - peaks-bursts of current and voltage on the graphs ...
Here they are confused.
Even scare.
Jumps up to 9 volts somewhere ...
If this is not a glitch, but real output voltage spikes on s / y - I would be afraid to use it.

Well, I just pulled out the cable from the circuit and connected the others, the application did not drop it, and it responded with jumps to the twitching while continuing to draw new graphics to the old ones.

VitaliyK @ 03.12.18, 11:14*
PS: All testers are disconnected when the voltage drops below 4 V, some closer to 3.5 V - this is normal, maybe it is not overheating, but there simply wasn’t enough voltage to work correctly and therefore, the readings are “digital trash” ... though of course everything is possible ...

The cable, which I think was defective, immediately dropped the voltage up to 4 volts, apparently further (voltage) it subsided even lower and the tester went into protection and did not turn on until it disconnected the load, only once it was possible to take readings on the shutdown threshold and there the readings are really not real.

Post has been editedbl0nde - 03.12.18, 14:32



Rep: (677)
By the way, the cable that “did not work” in 5V3A mode worked for 40 minutes (then disconnected itself) in 5V2A mode without disconnecting the tester, dropping the voltage to 4.45V and it seemed to be valid for 2 meters, but the manufacturer stated work on 3A and most importantly.
By the way, when disconnected, the cable itself was slightly warm, but the usb-a metal connector didn’t burn a finger.
In the wire itself, the flat hard part was heated from the usb-c port to the suction cup.


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