iBalance BS1 | [vehicle]
iBalance BS1 - battery-powered bicycle
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Post has been editedOleg Vereshchagin - 30.08.20, 15:00
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Device photos
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Device description
I propose to discuss the novelty:
Electroscooter iBalance BS is designed for the Russian consumer. Equipped with a 350W electric motor and is capable of speeds up to 25 km / h.
The stated range of the run on one battery charge is 30km.
Lightweight (13kg) folding frame made of aluminum alloy.
Available in two classic colors: white and black.
CertifiedPCT, CE, EAC.
Electroscooter iBalance BS is designed for the Russian consumer. Equipped with a 350W electric motor and is capable of speeds up to 25 km / h.
The stated range of the run on one battery charge is 30km.
Lightweight (13kg) folding frame made of aluminum alloy.
Available in two classic colors: white and black.
CertifiedPCT, CE, EAC.
Device characteristics
Frame material: aluminum alloy
Weight: 13kg
Size when folded: 1010 * 700 * 200mm
Size when unfolded: 1010 * 980 * 480
Maximum load: 110kg
Speed: lvl.1 - up to 10 km / h, lvl.2 - up to 16 km / h, lvl.3 - up to 25 km / h
Maximum mileage: up to 30 km
Maximum lifting angle: up to 20 degrees
Wheels: 12 inches, inflatable, tube
Brakes: front and rear disc
Battery: LiIon 36v 6600mAh
Motor power (nominal): 350W
Motor power (max.): 1200W
Light: LED headlight, tail light (clearance, stop, strobe)
On-board computer: with a screen, switching speeds, speedometer data, odometer, charge level indication and other telemetry data.
Degree of protection: IP64
Operating temperatures: from 0 to +40 degrees Celsius
Charger: 42v, built-in
Additionally: the ability to verify the originality of the device by serial number on the manufacturer's website.
Weight: 13kg
Size when folded: 1010 * 700 * 200mm
Size when unfolded: 1010 * 980 * 480
Maximum load: 110kg
Speed: lvl.1 - up to 10 km / h, lvl.2 - up to 16 km / h, lvl.3 - up to 25 km / h
Maximum mileage: up to 30 km
Maximum lifting angle: up to 20 degrees
Wheels: 12 inches, inflatable, tube
Brakes: front and rear disc
Battery: LiIon 36v 6600mAh
Motor power (nominal): 350W
Motor power (max.): 1200W
Light: LED headlight, tail light (clearance, stop, strobe)
On-board computer: with a screen, switching speeds, speedometer data, odometer, charge level indication and other telemetry data.
Degree of protection: IP64
Operating temperatures: from 0 to +40 degrees Celsius
Charger: 42v, built-in
Additionally: the ability to verify the originality of the device by serial number on the manufacturer's website.
There is no curator in the subject. For questions about filling the caps, please contact the section moderators via the button
under the messages to which you want to add links.If there is a user in the subject who wants to become a Curator and the correspondingRequirements for candidates, he can apply in the topicI want to be curator(after having studied the topic header and all materials for curators).
Post has been editedOleg Vereshchagin - 30.08.20, 15:00
Reason for editing: unnecessary
I propose to discuss this interesting device, similar to the running bike and the recently announced smart bike from xiaomi.
I managed to ride a little on such a parking lot near the shopping center, and squeeze out 26 km / h from it. It is harder to ride against the wind, for more than 20 he did not take my 80kg, although the carrying capacity of up to 110kg was declared.
With the growth of 184cm, it is quite comfortable to ride on it, despite the apparent miniature.
As far as I understand, in a plastic case placed on the frame there is a controller, a battery and a charger unit, since From the "window" you can pull out the wire for charging, which is plugged into our outlet.
There was an impression that inside the box there is a lot of free space and it will be possible to independently increase the capacity of the battery.
The spotlight seemed weak, but I assessed it in the light of day, I do not know how it will manifest itself in the dark.
I managed to ride a little on such a parking lot near the shopping center, and squeeze out 26 km / h from it. It is harder to ride against the wind, for more than 20 he did not take my 80kg, although the carrying capacity of up to 110kg was declared.
With the growth of 184cm, it is quite comfortable to ride on it, despite the apparent miniature.
As far as I understand, in a plastic case placed on the frame there is a controller, a battery and a charger unit, since From the "window" you can pull out the wire for charging, which is plugged into our outlet.
There was an impression that inside the box there is a lot of free space and it will be possible to independently increase the capacity of the battery.
The spotlight seemed weak, but I assessed it in the light of day, I do not know how it will manifest itself in the dark.
I want to buy such an electric scooter for myself, on sites they write different data about him, who writes that the motor is 250, who is 350w. Interestingly on the motor itself is the power value? Is there an indicator of the distance traveled on the display? If the battery is dead. Maybe someone bought, share your impressions. Maybe someone saw the video review on it. I have not yet found, even a review, except yours.
Post has been editedkarnet77 - 07.08.18, 13:56
Post has been editedkarnet77 - 07.08.18, 13:56
I got myself this device,
With a bigger thing, the thing is good, at least for me the scooters are losing to her specifically.
I'll start with the minuses, the most disappointment, battery and speed.
On the docks, motor 350, but it feels 250. Marking e,
but it finally seems to me that 180 :)
At the XX speedometer shows the speed of 30 km.h
Battery type 6.6 Ah.
On ochucheniyami, up to 16 km accelerates a lot of men, but tugovato, at the start I help with legs, otherwise you can feel melancholy (with my weight 67kg). After 16, a weak set, with the hill, and to 26 clocked. Porosh wind pichalka.
Several races, at a temperature of 10 degrees (sunny weather), respectively, at full gas for one and a half kilometers took 2 volts (from 40 to 42), after parking at 10 15 minutes the charge returned to 41 volts, and 38-39V showed through 1500 m, again parking 1 hour, and the same route, charge at the end = 36-37 volts.
To go fun (20-22kmch) need to constantly keep the gas to the full. Total, Battery for 3 km charge goes to 3 volts, those from 42 to 39-38 volts. According to the idea, the power reserve is 10 km with an average speed of 20 km / h. Perhaps, if you go 15Km.ch, then 15 km is enough, but why.
Non-removable battery - hemorrhoids, how to store in winter? On the balcony - the battery will die, in the garage - the same story ...
One more minus (they wanted it better, as if the charger was always with me), BUT, the connection cable to the outlet is inserted into the battery compartment, there is not enough space there, you have to tamp it constantly, I'm afraid it will not last long.
Why did not put the connector so that you can quickly remove the wire, put it in your pocket and drove - mysteriously ...
Indication of charging, no, that on the board (you can’t understand whether it is charging or not), that on the indicator, red lights up when charging, when it is charged it goes dead, the data on the green diode is clamped.
Now the pros:
Real weight: 14.3Kg
compared to the scooter, it goes on the tile - EXCELLENT. Inflatable 12 inch wheels do the trick
Stability (again, VS scooter) is better by an order of magnitude, because center of gravity below.
Dimensions: length 1m, Height 1m (unfolded steering wheel) 60 cm - folded steering wheel. It develops easily, in one movement, but I am afraid it will play if it is often folded.
In the car without problems.
Personally, I feel comfortable.
In the lift- Ideal
In the subway (Minsk) - allowed without problems (did not even fold the steering wheel).
disc brakes - cool.
Light - for me the rules, I see the pits at night.
Convenient indicator, there is a cruise control (very good)
Ideally - to strengthen the battery, make it removable, change the controller, so that 30 km.h. + remake cord-charging - the perfect vehicle for the city.
Post has been editedCoulthard - 05.10.18, 23:15
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With a bigger thing, the thing is good, at least for me the scooters are losing to her specifically.
I'll start with the minuses, the most disappointment, battery and speed.
On the docks, motor 350, but it feels 250. Marking e,
 |
but it finally seems to me that 180 :)
At the XX speedometer shows the speed of 30 km.h
Battery type 6.6 Ah.
On ochucheniyami, up to 16 km accelerates a lot of men, but tugovato, at the start I help with legs, otherwise you can feel melancholy (with my weight 67kg). After 16, a weak set, with the hill, and to 26 clocked. Porosh wind pichalka.
Several races, at a temperature of 10 degrees (sunny weather), respectively, at full gas for one and a half kilometers took 2 volts (from 40 to 42), after parking at 10 15 minutes the charge returned to 41 volts, and 38-39V showed through 1500 m, again parking 1 hour, and the same route, charge at the end = 36-37 volts.
To go fun (20-22kmch) need to constantly keep the gas to the full. Total, Battery for 3 km charge goes to 3 volts, those from 42 to 39-38 volts. According to the idea, the power reserve is 10 km with an average speed of 20 km / h. Perhaps, if you go 15Km.ch, then 15 km is enough, but why.
Non-removable battery - hemorrhoids, how to store in winter? On the balcony - the battery will die, in the garage - the same story ...
One more minus (they wanted it better, as if the charger was always with me), BUT, the connection cable to the outlet is inserted into the battery compartment, there is not enough space there, you have to tamp it constantly, I'm afraid it will not last long.
 |
Why did not put the connector so that you can quickly remove the wire, put it in your pocket and drove - mysteriously ...
Indication of charging, no, that on the board (you can’t understand whether it is charging or not), that on the indicator, red lights up when charging, when it is charged it goes dead, the data on the green diode is clamped.
Now the pros:
Real weight: 14.3Kg
compared to the scooter, it goes on the tile - EXCELLENT. Inflatable 12 inch wheels do the trick
Stability (again, VS scooter) is better by an order of magnitude, because center of gravity below.
 |
Dimensions: length 1m, Height 1m (unfolded steering wheel) 60 cm - folded steering wheel. It develops easily, in one movement, but I am afraid it will play if it is often folded.
In the car without problems.
 |
 |
Personally, I feel comfortable.
In the lift- Ideal
 |
In the subway (Minsk) - allowed without problems (did not even fold the steering wheel).
disc brakes - cool.
Light - for me the rules, I see the pits at night.
Convenient indicator, there is a cruise control (very good)
Ideally - to strengthen the battery, make it removable, change the controller, so that 30 km.h. + remake cord-charging - the perfect vehicle for the city.
Post has been editedCoulthard - 05.10.18, 23:15
Ideally - to strengthen the battery !!! - My friend's electric power, he collected. The motor costs 350w, the Li-ion 48v / 20ah battery, drives more than 40 km / h. If you still believe that the motor is 350w, then putting the battery Li-ion 48v / 20ah, I think this electric scooter will change a lot for the better. The cost of such a battery is really expensive .--- 48 volts / 10 ampere hours (48v / 15ah) 230x140x60 - 230
48 volts / 15 ampere hours (48v / 15ah) 230x140x60 - 260
48 volts / 20 ampere hours (48v / 20ah) 255С…140С…90 - 300
such prices in Minsk are in cull. Yes plus controller-35-40-ye.
Post has been editedkarnet77 - 15.10.18, 12:27
48 volts / 15 ampere hours (48v / 15ah) 230x140x60 - 260
48 volts / 20 ampere hours (48v / 20ah) 255С…140С…90 - 300
such prices in Minsk are in cull. Yes plus controller-35-40-ye.
Post has been editedkarnet77 - 15.10.18, 12:27
Well, you call the numbers are not small, hence the cost of acb is obtained.
I think if you reassemble akb in the same configuration, but from higher-quality elements, then this will greatly affect the mileage. And if also from more capacious ...
Well and, for increase in speed only tension to lift. There is a possibility that the native controller should digest the config 12s3p, instead of the current ..
By the way, nobody has ever looked inside, how is everything laid there and is there a place for creativity?
Post has been edited1upus - 05.11.18, 04:43
I think if you reassemble akb in the same configuration, but from higher-quality elements, then this will greatly affect the mileage. And if also from more capacious ...
Well and, for increase in speed only tension to lift. There is a possibility that the native controller should digest the config 12s3p, instead of the current ..
By the way, nobody has ever looked inside, how is everything laid there and is there a place for creativity?
Post has been edited1upus - 05.11.18, 04:43
1upus agrees with you, I’d like to know the exact power of the engine, because from the reviews on YouTube you get the impression that it is in the range of 200-250w.
karnet77, Judging by the information at the office. site, rated power 350, the peak - 1200. The products they have certified PCT, in theory, should not lie. I am inclined to think that replacing akb with a better one will change the situation, but you can start with a shunt tinning to see how it affects the speed:
It has been 1.5 months using iBalance BS1. Some results:
1. The peculiar arrangement of electronics: is a battery charger and the battery, the speed controller (LENZOD controller) located in the rear light in the central box (at the top). All controls are connected to the screen of a wheel (the brake sensors, gas) from the screen taillight is a cable with 8 wires that is connected to the controller 1 through the connector (8 contacts). Also connected to the controller motor (3 phase) and the Hall sensor (5 kontatov), ​​still connected to the controller taillight (such as the 4-terminal, can not remember). The screen (LENZOD) there are no settings, just the factory settings, apparently it should be configured via Bluetooth, but Bluetooth chip on the motherboard there is no screen.
What is written on the controller:
SMD shunt with a resistance of 0.002 ohms (R002, 2512 smd, cheating will not work)
What is written on the battery:
Apparently, the battery is assembled on the elements of the Samsung 22P 18650 INR18650-22P 2200mAh.
2. What changed during this time:
1) Installed rubber mud flaps on the front and rear fenders so that the boots and the lower part of the bike do not throw mud at the back, as well as a backpack on the back. Mudguards made of 3mm reinforced rubber, departure relative to the wing of about 65-70mm. Rear mudguard just glued 88 glue to the flat edge of the rear wing. The front mudguard is mounted on a galvanized corner, at an angle of about 120 degrees relative to the lower part of the front wing, and is glued to the wing along the entire perimeter with hot melt adhesive.
2) Replaced the original saddle, on it the whole ass can be repulsed on our sidewalks. Established Vinca Sport Vintage saddle (VS 9032 Royal Lady) 260x230mm - black, with springs. An ideal option for this electric bike, for a standard bike this saddle I would not advise using, the springs are too soft.
3) Replace the original disc brakes, grasp it too sharply, rear brake pads through the 250 km already have considerable wear them for a long time is not enough. Pads to them can only be found on Aliexpress (presumably it may be "NVP-05 Bicycle Resin Disc Brake Pads" and other similar). Set new disc brakes Shimano BR-M375. Brakes are excellent, gently grasp and easy to dose the braking force. In addition, they are set without shims, respectively sit deeper, rear brake pads are now used in almost 100% of the height, in contrast to the original brakes, where the rear pads were used on the strength of 2/3 of the height. As an added bonus - new brakes on this bike look much more organic and more compact.
4) Replaced the original slick tires, winter on the nose. Put new tires KENDA K850 12-1 / 2 "x 2-1 / 4" 40PSI. In the process of replacing it turned out that the rear wheel is crooked, the left side was not fully inserted into the plug. As a result, despite the deep profile of the tread, the electric bike drove significantly more vigorously, the reel increased at least 1.5 times, the speed steadily began to reach 25-26 km / h, it also began to drive visibly more vigorously against the wind, it seems to go uphill like earlier.
5) In the rear light red glass did not fit to the body and in one place did not even snap to the end. It was in the remnants of the cast on the rear edge of the red glass, cut them, trim the file and everything fell into place. Before installing on the perimeter of the installation space, a transparent silicone was applied to seal the LEDs under the red glass.
Wheels pumped by its weight 72kg: front 2.6 BAR, rear 3.1-3.2 BAR.
About the bearings in the wheels: while looking only at the front wheel - 6200RS (10x30x9mm), the motor-wheel has not yet disassembled.
There is no waterproofing anywhere, in both plastic boxes there are huge holes for wiring and hell knows what else (for ventilation ???).
It seems that I have no technical problems with this electric bike. Mileage is currently 302 km.
Post has been editedvlad_vy - 29.11.18, 10:18
1. The peculiar arrangement of electronics: is a battery charger and the battery, the speed controller (LENZOD controller) located in the rear light in the central box (at the top). All controls are connected to the screen of a wheel (the brake sensors, gas) from the screen taillight is a cable with 8 wires that is connected to the controller 1 through the connector (8 contacts). Also connected to the controller motor (3 phase) and the Hall sensor (5 kontatov), ​​still connected to the controller taillight (such as the 4-terminal, can not remember). The screen (LENZOD) there are no settings, just the factory settings, apparently it should be configured via Bluetooth, but Bluetooth chip on the motherboard there is no screen.
What is written on the controller:
LENZOD LZSZGK-P10
P10 Brushless Motor Controller
Voltage: DC36V Rated Power: 350W
Brake Type: low Undervoltage: 33V
Current Limiting: 12A
Features: LCD Instrumentation
Dimensions: 88 (92) x53x25mm
P10 Brushless Motor Controller
Voltage: DC36V Rated Power: 350W
Brake Type: low Undervoltage: 33V
Current Limiting: 12A
Features: LCD Instrumentation
Dimensions: 88 (92) x53x25mm
SMD shunt with a resistance of 0.002 ohms (R002, 2512 smd, cheating will not work)
What is written on the battery:
"Samsung"
Product name: UFINE 10S01
Battery model: 3P 10S SAMSUNG22P
Voltage / Capacity: 36V / 6.6Ah
Size: 150x75x70mm
Weight: 1.35kg
Product name: UFINE 10S01
Battery model: 3P 10S SAMSUNG22P
Voltage / Capacity: 36V / 6.6Ah
Size: 150x75x70mm
Weight: 1.35kg
Apparently, the battery is assembled on the elements of the Samsung 22P 18650 INR18650-22P 2200mAh.
2. What changed during this time:
1) Installed rubber mud flaps on the front and rear fenders so that the boots and the lower part of the bike do not throw mud at the back, as well as a backpack on the back. Mudguards made of 3mm reinforced rubber, departure relative to the wing of about 65-70mm. Rear mudguard just glued 88 glue to the flat edge of the rear wing. The front mudguard is mounted on a galvanized corner, at an angle of about 120 degrees relative to the lower part of the front wing, and is glued to the wing along the entire perimeter with hot melt adhesive.
2) Replaced the original saddle, on it the whole ass can be repulsed on our sidewalks. Established Vinca Sport Vintage saddle (VS 9032 Royal Lady) 260x230mm - black, with springs. An ideal option for this electric bike, for a standard bike this saddle I would not advise using, the springs are too soft.
3) Replace the original disc brakes, grasp it too sharply, rear brake pads through the 250 km already have considerable wear them for a long time is not enough. Pads to them can only be found on Aliexpress (presumably it may be "NVP-05 Bicycle Resin Disc Brake Pads" and other similar). Set new disc brakes Shimano BR-M375. Brakes are excellent, gently grasp and easy to dose the braking force. In addition, they are set without shims, respectively sit deeper, rear brake pads are now used in almost 100% of the height, in contrast to the original brakes, where the rear pads were used on the strength of 2/3 of the height. As an added bonus - new brakes on this bike look much more organic and more compact.
4) Replaced the original slick tires, winter on the nose. Put new tires KENDA K850 12-1 / 2 "x 2-1 / 4" 40PSI. In the process of replacing it turned out that the rear wheel is crooked, the left side was not fully inserted into the plug. As a result, despite the deep profile of the tread, the electric bike drove significantly more vigorously, the reel increased at least 1.5 times, the speed steadily began to reach 25-26 km / h, it also began to drive visibly more vigorously against the wind, it seems to go uphill like earlier.
5) In the rear light red glass did not fit to the body and in one place did not even snap to the end. It was in the remnants of the cast on the rear edge of the red glass, cut them, trim the file and everything fell into place. Before installing on the perimeter of the installation space, a transparent silicone was applied to seal the LEDs under the red glass.
Wheels pumped by its weight 72kg: front 2.6 BAR, rear 3.1-3.2 BAR.
About the bearings in the wheels: while looking only at the front wheel - 6200RS (10x30x9mm), the motor-wheel has not yet disassembled.
There is no waterproofing anywhere, in both plastic boxes there are huge holes for wiring and hell knows what else (for ventilation ???).
It seems that I have no technical problems with this electric bike. Mileage is currently 302 km.
Post has been editedvlad_vy - 29.11.18, 10:18
I completely forgot to write about the very first change:
1) The battery is loose in the central box and hangs there like shit in the hole. Also at the fastening clamp aluminum unprocessed sharp edges which cut the insulation external battery. Glued onto the lower side of the battery 6 dimes of self-adhesive foam (used for false ceilings of gypsum plasterboard), the fixing clamp pasted on the battery polyurethane foam, the perimeter wall of the battery compartment also pasted polyurethane foam. He handled the sharp edges with a file attachment collar. Had to chisel / needle files lengthen the holes for the screws in the mounting collar, or collar to plump the battery has not been consolidated. I insert the battery into place, securing the clamp =>Now the battery is still dead, checked in a week and a month later.
Post has been editedvlad_vy - 29.11.18, 11:21
1) The battery is loose in the central box and hangs there like shit in the hole. Also at the fastening clamp aluminum unprocessed sharp edges which cut the insulation external battery. Glued onto the lower side of the battery 6 dimes of self-adhesive foam (used for false ceilings of gypsum plasterboard), the fixing clamp pasted on the battery polyurethane foam, the perimeter wall of the battery compartment also pasted polyurethane foam. He handled the sharp edges with a file attachment collar. Had to chisel / needle files lengthen the holes for the screws in the mounting collar, or collar to plump the battery has not been consolidated. I insert the battery into place, securing the clamp =>Now the battery is still dead, checked in a week and a month later.
Post has been editedvlad_vy - 29.11.18, 11:21
I remembered another joint. In the rear light on bananas (connectors) of the phase wires of the motor-wheel and the controller, the existing insulation caps were not worn, i.e. all three phase connectors in the rear light were dangling bare, which is fraught with a short interphase closure. Dressed them as expected, elastic caps on both sides of the connector are inserted into each other, completely isolating the banana connector.
Now the sidewalks / roads are sprinkled with sand / salt and all this porridge is thrown on the rear brake disc and caliper with the front wheel, as a result the brake pads are grinded right before our eyes, plus all this is nasty crunches / squeaks on the go. You need to come up with something to protect the rear brake disc from dirt.
Mileage is currently 379 km.
Post has been editedvlad_vy - 12.12.18, 09:56
Mileage is currently 379 km.
Post has been editedvlad_vy - 12.12.18, 09:56
Made a trial option to protect the rear brake disc and caliper from dirt. From scrap materials: a piece of aluminum corner 2mm thick (with a shelf 35-50mm), an aluminum strip 20x2mm, a piece of steel wire with a diameter of 2mm, a strip of rubber sheet 35x110x3mm, 2 screws, 3 nuts and a washer (M4). It turned out a flat wing in front of the brake disc (half-ring with a diameter of 160mm) and the caliper is covered on top with a strip of rubber.
Now I am waiting for a thaw to check whether this will work.
Now I am waiting for a thaw to check whether this will work.
The first test of protection against the rear brake passed on the top five. Not long had to wait, a light snowball fell and on the salt sidewalks he immediately melted. All the way I was driving on wet sand, the rear brake protection was all covered with wet sand, but nothing came onto the brake disc and caliper.
A damped front fork for electric FIIDO came from Singapore. There are two versions, for DYU and for FIIDO, only the version for FIIDO is suitable for iBalace BS1.
https: //www.passiongad...on-fork-10inch-12inch/
In addition, there are some minor problems:
1. The hole for attaching the wing is not through, threaded, and not on the side on which I would like (front). We will have to drill another hole on the other side and cut the thread M6.
2. For the axis of the wheel just through holes with a diameter of 10mm, and not forks, as usual.
3. A fork with an internal mounting width of 111 mm, rather than 100 mm, and an outer width of 130 mm, i.e. for the wheel axle, a new threaded stud M10x1.25 with a length of 155-156 mm is needed. The thickness of the spacers should be increased by about 5 mm, it will be ~ 10mm on the one hand and 15mm on the other hand. The original axis looks like a pin for parts with smooth holes, GOST 22042-76, 135 mm long, 25 mm of thread M10x1.25 on each side.
4. The outer diameter of the spacers can not be more than 16 mm, it is limited by the shape of the shock absorbers in the area of ​​the wheel axis.
5. The pipe version FIIDO is longer than necessary, it will have to be shortened, the benefit of the thread is long. In addition, you will have to re-do the groove for the washer lock. The pipe for the DYU version is shorter than necessary.
It seems like I found a suitable axis 155 mm long on Aliexpress.
In the lot 3 are the same axis, when ordering, you need to specify in the comments that you need a 155mm axis.
https: //www.aliexpress...cuRxj&isOrigTitle=true
The 155mm wheel axle went up to the damped front fork in the best possible way, got flush with the nuts. Nuts can be used only from the axle kit, the thread on the axle is small M10x1mm. All nuts and spacers are not white in color, as in the photo, and yellow. White only washers. On the side of the brake disc, in addition to the 10mm spacer, I also had to add a thick washer from the axle kit, on the other hand, a 10mm spacer and 5mm spacer.
Another complication surfaced, the mounting of the brake adapter is in a different place, so you need to use another adapter for the front brake - exactly the same as the rear (front for 160mm disc or rear for 140mm disc). I think SHIMANO SM-MA-F160P / S or similar is suitable.
Post has been editedvlad_vy - 01.02.19, 20:41
https: //www.passiongad...on-fork-10inch-12inch/
In addition, there are some minor problems:
1. The hole for attaching the wing is not through, threaded, and not on the side on which I would like (front). We will have to drill another hole on the other side and cut the thread M6.
2. For the axis of the wheel just through holes with a diameter of 10mm, and not forks, as usual.
3. A fork with an internal mounting width of 111 mm, rather than 100 mm, and an outer width of 130 mm, i.e. for the wheel axle, a new threaded stud M10x1.25 with a length of 155-156 mm is needed. The thickness of the spacers should be increased by about 5 mm, it will be ~ 10mm on the one hand and 15mm on the other hand. The original axis looks like a pin for parts with smooth holes, GOST 22042-76, 135 mm long, 25 mm of thread M10x1.25 on each side.
4. The outer diameter of the spacers can not be more than 16 mm, it is limited by the shape of the shock absorbers in the area of ​​the wheel axis.
5. The pipe version FIIDO is longer than necessary, it will have to be shortened, the benefit of the thread is long. In addition, you will have to re-do the groove for the washer lock. The pipe for the DYU version is shorter than necessary.
 |
It seems like I found a suitable axis 155 mm long on Aliexpress.
In the lot 3 are the same axis, when ordering, you need to specify in the comments that you need a 155mm axis.
https: //www.aliexpress...cuRxj&isOrigTitle=true
The 155mm wheel axle went up to the damped front fork in the best possible way, got flush with the nuts. Nuts can be used only from the axle kit, the thread on the axle is small M10x1mm. All nuts and spacers are not white in color, as in the photo, and yellow. White only washers. On the side of the brake disc, in addition to the 10mm spacer, I also had to add a thick washer from the axle kit, on the other hand, a 10mm spacer and 5mm spacer.
Another complication surfaced, the mounting of the brake adapter is in a different place, so you need to use another adapter for the front brake - exactly the same as the rear (front for 160mm disc or rear for 140mm disc). I think SHIMANO SM-MA-F160P / S or similar is suitable.
Post has been editedvlad_vy - 01.02.19, 20:41
I got the adapter SHIMANO SM-MA-F160P / S, it came up in the best possible way. Moreover, it included the fastening straps M6x20, which exactly matched the length for the thick ears of the new damped plug, the original M6x16 screws were a bit short.
After a week of driving with a cushioned fork, I have a small summary:
1. It is much more comfortable to drive, it became less to pull the steering wheel on unevenness. Especially noticeable is the improvement on the washboard of winter frost. From the observed drawbacks - a very sharp braking has become more dangerous, the plug sags and you can roll forward.
2. Due to the fact that the fork legs are at a level tire, any splashes of mud from the tire and the wing fall directly on the polished fork legs. I do not think it is useful for seals. It was necessary to build a safety shields of fine pieces of black plastic (Folder for papers with clip) 65mm (height) h90mm (width approximately 2/3 the circumference of the plug pants) and fasten the plastic fork to pants nylon ties, side wheels. It took 3 days for the test drive through the mud during a thaw, normal flight on foot forks are now nothing falls.
Overcame the milestone of 500 km, mileage is currently 517 km.
1. It is much more comfortable to drive, it became less to pull the steering wheel on unevenness. Especially noticeable is the improvement on the washboard of winter frost. From the observed drawbacks - a very sharp braking has become more dangerous, the plug sags and you can roll forward.
2. Due to the fact that the fork legs are at a level tire, any splashes of mud from the tire and the wing fall directly on the polished fork legs. I do not think it is useful for seals. It was necessary to build a safety shields of fine pieces of black plastic (Folder for papers with clip) 65mm (height) h90mm (width approximately 2/3 the circumference of the plug pants) and fasten the plastic fork to pants nylon ties, side wheels. It took 3 days for the test drive through the mud during a thaw, normal flight on foot forks are now nothing falls.
Overcame the milestone of 500 km, mileage is currently 517 km.
I can’t imagine how to take a picture of him, the lighting is weak and there is no place at home and at work, he just doesn’t climb into the frame and it’s too cold outside. In addition, it would be necessary to clean / wash it before shooting. In addition, why are these pictures needed? Apparently, we have owners of iBalance BS1 and F-Wheel DYU D1 Deluxe zero point zero.
Experiments with protection of the rear brake disc from dirt are not yet finished, anyway, the dirt periodically falls on the brake disc and into the caliper. Now I try an option with an additional side cover, to protect against splashing flying ricochets from the rear fork. It seems to be better, but for complete confidence you need to wait for the thaw and properly ride through the porridge and puddles.
P.S. Parts iBalance BS1 is not even in the so-called iBalance producer. I stopped working display on the charger and, as a result of an emergency heavy braking, bent handlebar stem. Tried to contact iBalance support the request for the purchase of these items, and in response, nothing but the only formal replies - "... We'll see what we have in parts ...". Oh well, the stem, I almost sat up, and in any case acquired external charger 42V-2A device, the benefit to the rear light has a connector connected to a battery.
Still, in case of breakdown of the steering wheel, after power manipulations on its straightening, I purchased the steering rack entirely from the F-Wheel DYU D1. It is almost the same as for iBalance BS1, it only folds to the other side of the bike.
Post has been editedvlad_vy - 14.03.19, 09:15
Experiments with protection of the rear brake disc from dirt are not yet finished, anyway, the dirt periodically falls on the brake disc and into the caliper. Now I try an option with an additional side cover, to protect against splashing flying ricochets from the rear fork. It seems to be better, but for complete confidence you need to wait for the thaw and properly ride through the porridge and puddles.
P.S. Parts iBalance BS1 is not even in the so-called iBalance producer. I stopped working display on the charger and, as a result of an emergency heavy braking, bent handlebar stem. Tried to contact iBalance support the request for the purchase of these items, and in response, nothing but the only formal replies - "... We'll see what we have in parts ...". Oh well, the stem, I almost sat up, and in any case acquired external charger 42V-2A device, the benefit to the rear light has a connector connected to a battery.
Still, in case of breakdown of the steering wheel, after power manipulations on its straightening, I purchased the steering rack entirely from the F-Wheel DYU D1. It is almost the same as for iBalance BS1, it only folds to the other side of the bike.
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Post has been editedvlad_vy - 14.03.19, 09:15
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