Before you start, read and remember, when you disassemble or assemble the battery, DO NOT open the contacts !!! They are made of aluminum alloy, not soldered. The spot welders are welded to them by soldering to the board. After the loss of the coppers, it is practically impossible to solder with such contacts to the board !!! Sometimes pyataks are soldered with refractory solder, it is necessary to heat longer, but in no case do not cut anything !!!Attention!!! The seller from whom I bought the battery, which we are talking about in this post, has long been selling bullshit, whose capacity is about 3000 mAh.
In view of the fact that there were many questions on alteration, I will try to write a report all the same, well, and collect a bunch of messages in one post.
In general, the autonomy of my device was basically normal, I watched the screen for 6 hours regularly, but once I caught sightthis
about how he tried on the Lenovo s860 battery in our device. Because experience of this "collective farm" had repeated, then without hesitation ordered this
battery (Adding from 2017, at the moment, this link sells "thin" batteries with a capacity of 3000-3200 mAh, with which the native cover closes without problems)
. The choice criterion was the word original
in the description, because in the case of a poor-quality battery, it is easy to return the money by hooking on precisely this word. But the seller did not disappoint, although the battery is not original, but it corresponds to the stated requirements with a margin (more on this below).
The battery rode for about a month, received without damage, it was packed perfectly. Next parse (unfortunately no pictures). So, after winding off the black electrical tape from it, I saw what I expected, the board is soldered to the two contacts of the "can." It's simple, soldered fee, the bank put aside. Next, the worst, analysis of the native battery.
What is left of the native battery
It looks very scary, and it was no less scary to do (just kidding))) The main thing is accuracy. Extreme accuracy when peeling metal plates from the can itself, a very great chance to damage the battery itself. In general, an inquiring mind and playful hands require the exertion of their whims, what's done is done. Unfortunately, I do not have a photo of a separate controller board, there was nothing to photograph, because the battery was disassembled. It is very similar to the Lenovo battery board, only without a loop.
In general, then everything went smoothly, "our" board was soldered to the battery from lenovo (the distance between contacts was about the same as that of our battery, so there were no problems. The main thing is not to confuse the polarity, I determined it with a simple digital multimeter.) charge the front and back of the frame of the native battery, it turned out the perfect length, completely coincided with the length of the native battery.
It turned out such a battery
Another photo of the battery is in this post:Power consumption (autonomy) Xiaomi Redmi Note 2 (Post Bloody56 # 48297413)
Test run, charging, everything is successful.
Then took in handthis
non-original cover "under the iPhone" with a real aluminum frame and a real glass on the back wall and a piece of a stationery knife blade just removed a layer from the inside about 0.5mm (maybe up to 1mm) so that it would close well.
It all took 866r for the battery and 392 for the cover. Although I ordered the cover when I did not even think about the alterations, simply because I liked it.
Tel issued almost 9 hours of screen
After that, I passed out and did not want to load in normal mode, although the voltage was more than 3500mV under load.
I went into twrp, crashed batterystats.bin, rebooted - again it was cut down at the final stage of loading. Again I go to twrp, bang batterystats.bin, turn off the device, take out the acb for a minute. After that, it booted in the normal mode with 15 percent charge and gave another 30 minutes to the screen, after which it was finally cut down to 3400mV without being able to turn on in recovery mode.
The control measurement of the tank, more precisely 2 measurements, gave an unexpected result - about4400mAh
(I am sure in the tester, he has already checked for half a year with a dozen batteries), while the battery weight is 65 grams.
Good luck to you in the "tuning"! The main thing do not be afraid, and everything will turn out!
Addition 1:Testing real capacity "to return"
Addition 2: It is possible to use batteries from lenovo p780 and p70, all at 4000 mAh and suitable sizes.Addition 3 (IMPORTANT !!! Added after 4x calls to me with a shout "WHAT TO DO ?? !!"): When disassembling or assembling the battery, DO NOT break the contacts !!! They are made of aluminum alloy, not soldered. The spot welders are welded to them by soldering to the board. After the loss of the coppers, it is practically impossible to solder with such contacts to the board !!!
Addition 4:Excellent report on similar battery replacement
made valera furman,
there is also a pretty visual video.
Post has been editedBloody56 - 06.10.18, 18:03
Old version of this post
For those who are too lazy to use the search, I collected links to all my posts about replacing the 4000mAh battery
Lift it in a hat, if you please, you can arrange it somehow, just do not know how. If someone wants to arrange a normal, then I only.
Thanks for the tipneo5
to him and to no one else, since It was he who suggested a potential battery donor in this post: Power consumption (autonomy) Xiaomi Redmi Note 2 (Post neo5 # 46095712)
, and all the rest is the work of hands, no difficulty for me, especially inventiveness was also required, since This is not the first such "tuning".
By the way, you can use batteries from Lenovo p780 and p70, all at 4000 mAh, and of suitable sizes (I did not try it on myself, data from the network).
Control measurement of capacity, more precisely 2 measurements, gave the result of 4400 mAh
I measured the mass of the battery. 65g
Reason for editing: Upd