Cable for simultaneously charging the tablet and connecting peripherals



Rep: (82)
Simultaneous charging and peripherals (Prestigio Visconte Quad)
Windows 8.1 | 8 "| Intel Atom Z3735G | 1Gb
Description | Discussion | Purchase and accessories | Prestigio Visconte Quad - Android & Linux \ Ubuntu
Windows 8-8.1 | Windows 10 | Games for tablets on Intel Bay Trail | Ambulance TabletPC owners

Attached Image

Theme created for owners of devices on Windows!
Cable creation instructions
The problem of lack of USB connectors
In our Prestigio Visconte Quad tablet, there is only one USB (microUSB) connector and it also charges from this connector. In this regard, there is an acute problem of lack of USB connectors and the inability to use peripheral devices while charging the tablet.
This topic was created to solve this actual problem.

Wiring Methods
  1. ScotchLok
    ScotchLok, ScotchLok, electrical connector with mortise contact.
    Attached Image

    This is for low voltage (network, telephones, LED lights, etc.).
    The point is simple - several wires are pushed into such a thing.
    After which it snaps into the pliers or any oppressive tool.
    Attached Image
    Attached Image

    They are especially loved by the installers of the SCS and networks, for simplicity, cheapness, water resistance, and the lack of the need to remove the insulation.
    Inside - a hydrophobic gel that protects against corrosion, moisture, oxidation, etc. And a plate with a cutting-clamping surface or two plates.
    Attached Image
    Attached Image

    What happens to the cable after installation?
    Knives cut the insulation, and firmly pressed to the wire.
    Attached Image
    There is also a version for two cables at once.
    By itself, they are disposable and maintenance-free. It is necessary to replace - a piece of cable is bitten off with them, and a new one is put.
    Cost: from 2-3 up to 5-7 rubles apiece.
    P.S. They are very convenient to use - it is not necessary to remove the shell of the wire, just shoved the wires into the scotch-loop and pressed the passatages (knives inside the tape loop cut the insulation, and tightly pressed to the wire). There is one but - 4 wiring in USB cable is very small in diameter and therefore sometimes they slip between the scotch-log knives (it is usually enough just to strip the tape-lok passage, so that it cuts the wire insulation, but sometimes it does not drive and you have to cut a piece of wire and use new scotch-slope).
    At first I, until I got used to using them, spoiled about 10 scotch locks. Now I got it and it turns out the first time. Usually the problem is that you did not shake the scotch-lok, you just need to press the pliers harder. Therefore, take them more than you need, just in case.
    You can buy them at an electrical goods store, a radio goods store or in the construction market.

  2. Polyethylene terminal blocks
    Look like this
    Attached Image

    Sold in any hardware store, worth a penny.
    Inside here is a brass sleeve with two screws:
    Attached Image

    We push wires into it, we clamp with screws:
    Attached Image

    After that, we must isolate the sleeve with tape (because electricity passes through the sleeve itself). In this form, its size is almost halved. If the small size of the connection is not important to you, it is better to leave the sleeve inside the insulating box. Then the connection will look like this:
    Attached Image

    Each segment can be cut off. It would seem ideal. But there are drawbacks.
    - Do not clamp aluminum. The aluminum core has fluidity under constant pressure, and after a while the contact can easily disappear or deteriorate. What is fraught with - you know, heat and fire. Strictly speaking, ALL aluminum screw connections need to be tightened once a year.
    - Be careful with clamping stranded wires. There is a complete set of what the stranded wire does not like - and the rotational movement, and the uneven surface of the screw, and the dotted uneven pressure. Maybe everything is fine, special if the current is small, and maybe not lucky and half of the wires will remain from the wire. Next you know.
    - It is necessary to select the size under the cross section of the wire. The wire does not fit into too small a diameter, and it is inconvenient to clamp too large, worse contact and more freedom - the risk that the wire will fall out or break off.
    - If a little more tightly clamped, hard, but fragile brass easily cracks. What is fraught with bad contact, and ... Well, you understand.
    - Do not pay attention to the plates with currents when buying. They are lying. Divide the current by two, and better by 3.
    Cost: from 10 to 50 rubles.

  3. Solder paste (without using a soldering iron)
    Solder paste (solder paste) is a mechanical mixture of solder powder, binder (or lubricant), flux and some other components.
    To connect the wires with solder paste, you need to twist the connecting wires, spread the solder paste on the twist and heat the twist with a conventional lighter. Because the solder is in a powdered state, the fine solder particles are melted, forming a welded joint.
    Video - how to use solder paste.
    Solder Paste Overview:the firstandsecond.

  4. Lighter autogen (without using a soldering iron)
    The autogenic lighter is a type of turbocharger, in which the barrel (burner barrel) is turned horizontally, at an angle of about 90 degrees to the body of the lighter.
    Attached ImageAttached ImageAttached ImageAttached Image
    Thanks to the design, the flame of a lighter reaches a temperature of 1300 degrees Celsius and easily melts the solder. It is enough to twist the connecting wires, wrap the twist with solder with rosin inside (it is desirable to use solder with rosin inside for a more reliable connection) and heat the twist with an autogen lighter. Because the temperature of the flame is very high solder melts, forming a welded joint.
    Video - how to solder the wires using the autogen lighter.

  5. Soldering with a soldering iron
    The cheapest (a soldering iron can be purchased for 150 rubles, flux and solder another 50 rubles. As a result, the minimum required for soldering will require about 200 rubles) and a reliable (with at least minimum soldering abilities) method of connecting wires.

  • I also advise you to read the articles on how to connect the wires:the firstandthe secondarticle.
  • Wires Insulation Ways
    1. Insulating tape. Standard for wire insulation.
    2. Hemoft tube. Made of materials based on thermopolymers, which have a property to compress when heated by hot air, an open flame or in hot water. Produced in the form of tubes of different diameters. The tube is put on to connect the wires, the wires are connected, the tube moves to the location of the wires and heats up. In this case, the tube sitting occurs (when heated, the diameter of the tube decreases into two or more times, depending on the type of tube), the tube is securely fits the location of the wire connections and isolates the wires.
    Shrinkable tubing articleandshrink tubing video.
    You can sit down using a lighter or a building dryer (in fact, it sits perfectly well with a regular hair dryer. We remove the hair extension from the hair dryer, turn on the hair dryer to the maximum and bring it to the tube 1-1.5 cm away


Pinout usb connectors and cables
USB cable consists of 4 wires:
Attached Image
Pinout usb connector
Attached Image

Pinout micro USB connector
Attached Image
Diagram of the usual cable for charging the phone / tablet (microUSB-dad - USB-dad) [you can charge the tablet through this cable, but you cannot connect peripheral devices]:
Attached Image

Cable layout for connecting peripheral devices (microUSB-dad - USB-mother, cable for connecting peripheral devices supplied with the tablet) [you can connect peripheral devices through this cable, but you can’t charge the tablet]:
Attached Image


Homemade cable for simultaneous charging and connecting peripherals

Factory cable for simultaneous charging and connecting peripherals
If you can not make a homemade cable to simultaneously charge and connect peripherals, then you have 2 options:
  1. Build a "constructor" from a standard USB hub and standard cables

    USB-hab to simultaneously charge the tablet and connect peripherals without soldering and redoing the wires - only standard cables are used, no need to re-solder or redo anything. Pay attention to the pros and cons of such a hub (Under increased load, the tablet may be discharged, but much slower than during battery operation. With a small load, the tablet charges, but very slowly).

  2. Buy the ONLY 3 factory USB hub for simultaneously charging and connecting peripherals
    Remember: Conventional USB hubs cannot simultaneously charge a tablet and connect peripherals to it.
    ONLY The exception to this rule is the 3 USB hubs tested in our topic:
    1. USB - OTG Hub for Samsung Galaxy S5 / Note 3 Smartphones (it works on our tablet because it has a nonstandard wire layout that is different from the one used in all other USB hubs).
    You can buy it onebay.
    ATTENTION:Do not confusewith such a hub(as you can see it does not have a switch). It cannot simultaneously charge and connect peripherals (just like all other hubs). Please note that it does not have a switch, this hub will have to be “finished” by itself.according to this instruction.
    2. U2271 note3 n7100 micro usb otg - tested on our tablet by the user dimain008 ( more in this post );
    3. 10070TW Acasis H027 Mobile Tablet PC Charging Cable OTG Micro USB HUB 3 Connector (s) Simultaneous Charging Transmisson Cable FS - tested on Pipo w2f tablet by many users, including the user dmn8484 , on our tablet should also work ( more in this post ).
    Possible applicants
    There is 1 hub that CAN BE will work on our tablet, BUT nobody has checked it yet. Buy and check at your own risk. If it works - post in the topic.
    1. There is a similarhub for note 3maybe it will also work on our tablet (this is just a guess, no one has checked it)


ATTENTION: For owners of Android & iOS devices: It is NOT POSSIBLE to make the cable for simultaneous charging of the tablet and connection of peripheral devices. You can only connect the periphery to them (more details under the spoiler).
For owners of Android & iOS devices
Cable for simultaneously charging the tablet and connecting peripherals NOT POSSIBLE make for Android & iOS devices. You can only connect the peripherals to them.
  • For owners of Android devices
    At the same time, it is impossible to charge Android devices and connect peripherals to them. Or you
    use OTG, or charge your device, because OTG-controller can not work on data exchange and charging, because gives food ..
    You can also connect peripherals using USB-Habs with additional power, which allow you to connect peripherals that require a lot of power to work (for example, some external hard drives, etc.)
    To connect peripherals, it is necessary that your Android device supports USB Host OTG function (Samsung Galaxy S series smartphones, starting with Galaxy S2, Note series and many other smartphones from other companies, but not all, have this function (check online, Does your smartphone support this function))
    USB Host OTG
    USB Host OTG (abbr. From On-The-Go) is a further extension of the USB 2.0 specification, designed to easily connect USB peripheral devices to each other without the need to connect to a PC.
    That is, we can connect a USB flash drive, mouse, keyboard, card reader, etc. to the phone.
    There is a SEPARATE topic, where everything is detailed:Connection of peripherals and peripherals requiring additional power for Android devices(This is a theme for the Samsung Galaxy S2, but is also relevant for owners of other Android devices).
    There are already ready USB-Habs that allow you to connect peripheralsoverview of one of these hubs.

    You can use a USB-Hab with additional power - the additional power of the hub will go to the work of the peripherals, reducing the consumption of the connected power peripherals from the smartphone. So When using USB-Hab with additional power, the phone will also be discharged as if nothing was connected to it.

    As an alternative, I can offer to charge a smartphone, and connect peripherals to a smartphone via Bluetooth (now you can connect keyboards, mice, some gamepads, some printers, etc.) to a smartphone via Bluetooth.

  • For owners of iOS devices


Post has been editedferhad.necef - 28.08.20, 16:19
Reason for editing: New cap author AndrewP_one



Rep: (82)
Yekaterinburg @ 03.02.2015, 15:11*
For charging, the current is low because the +5 sockets are connected to the +5 cable that goes to the tablet through current-limiting resistors.

I agree (you can do it bypassing them, but the purpose of this scheme was to create a homemade hub for those who cannot re-solder / tape the cables with adhesive tape locks. Create a scheme only using standard cables).
Yekaterinburg @ 03.02.2015, 15:11*
For charging, the current is low because the +5 sockets are connected to the +5 cable that goes to the tablet through current-limiting resistors.

in fact, these resistors should work in the opposite direction to transfer power to the hub with the periphery (it would be interesting to measure how much it goes to the tablet), that is, they let as much as the hub can use (I think it is somewhere around 5V 500mA maximum). But it will be charged or discharged, depends on its power consumption,although most likely the charge will remain at the same level or slowly decrease(charging, but very slowly with a moderate load - playing video from a flash drive) (by the way, are these current-limiting resistors the same in all hubs or can they be different?).
Yekaterinburg @ 03.02.2015, 15:11*
The longer the power cable, the lower the output current.

Well, I had a 3cm adapter at all, uncomfortable with it. I agree, I think 30-50cm will be enough.

Post has been edited@ luk @ rd - 03.02.15, 23:31



Rep: (248)
@ luk @ rd @ 03.02.2015, 15:01*
...
in fact, you can get by with just a dad-dad cable (preferably long, it’s inconvenient to connect a short one to the socket), and cut the USB-dad connector from the hub and put the microUSB from the cable to charge the phones (it does not have a jumper between 4 and 5 contacts, so the tablet does not supply + 5V to VBUS [red wire], but instead of a tablet + 5V comes from the outlet and the hub is determined by the tablet).
P.S. increasingly come to the conclusion thatscheme fromwapirat will work, only it will be problematic to reproduce it ...

In the end, I tried another experiment: I plugged the hub directly into charging, instead of the tablet, into the hub I plugged the tablet, charging went, but the periphery did not work by itself.

Posted 02/03/2015, 15:44:

* Yekaterinburg, in my opinion the length of the wires is not so big, and the current is too small, so that the wire would have a significant resistance



Rep: (82)
D-Man610 @ 02/03/2015, 15:41*
I stuck the hub directly into the charging, instead of the tablet, into the hub I stuck the tablet, the charging went, but the periphery did not work by itself.

Because of the peculiarities of the hub circuit (between the hub connectors transmit electric current, but information is transmitted only to the cable coming from the hub). In my case, the classical circuit is essentially repeated, only the power goes to the tablet through the hub resistor, which limits the amount of energy going to the tablet (which is powered by the residual principle). In this case, we get a full hub with add. powered to which you can connect energy-intensive devices (I have easily connected an external hard drive).

A kind of hybrid schemeschemes from wapirat without a switch (a hub with additional power, but the tablet also charges a little). By the way, you can make a switch in the hub which, when activated, bypasses the hub resistors and the power will go to the hub and to the tablet in the same way (this will reproduce the classical scheme), and when you turn off the switch, you will get a hub with power and a small charge of the tablet.
The only difference is that such a hub will not work without an outlet, while the factory one was talked about (most likely) could work without power. Or maybe it also works?
No, the factory essentially had to have 3 modes of operation: 1. charge the tablet and use low-power peripherals. 2. work as a hub with additional power. 3. work as a normal hub without power. Still, probably the case in the switch between the 4th and 5th contact.

Post has been edited@ luk @ rd - 03.02.15, 16:11



Rep: (8)
D-Man610 @ 02.03.2015, 04:44*
in my opinion the length of the wires is not so big, and the current is too small, so that the wire would have a significant resistance

I conducted an experiment - when the power cable was doubled, to about 2 meters, the current dropped almost twice.



Rep: (248)
@ luk @ rd @ 03.02.2015, 16:00*
...
Because of the peculiarities of the hub circuit (between the hub connectors transmit electric current, but information is transmitted only to the cable coming from the hub).

Yes, I know, I was just indulging.



Rep: (82)
Yekaterinburg @ 03.02.2015, 15:11*
Despite the charging icon, the tablet was discharged. For charging, the current is low because the +5 sockets are connected to the +5 cable that goes to the tablet through current-limiting resistors. Disassemble the case - see for yourself.

Conducted a small experiment: the tablet is connected according to the above scheme, it plays video from a USB flash drive connected to it. For 30-40 minutes, the tablet charge increased from 16% to 21%. Of course, charging is slow but it goes. Although with increased load on the tablet (games or something resource-intensive) I think the tablet will be discharged.



Rep: (8)
@ luk @ rd @ 03.02.2015 05:30*
Conducted a small experiment: the tablet is connected according to the above scheme, it plays video from a USB flash drive connected to it. For 30-40 minutes, the tablet charge increased from 16% to 21%. Of course, charging is slow but it goes. Although with increased load on the tablet (games or something resource-intensive) I think the tablet will be discharged.

I also spent. I measured the current consumed by the tablet with a resistorless circuit - 800 ma.
According to the scheme described by you with connection through the hub port, the current should be even less due to the resistor.
Connected according to this scheme to the hub screw, it consumes 700 ma. He did not go. True, the current it turns out goes right through two resistors. the first one is on the power-hub second; on the hub screw. But when I soldered +5 and -5 directly from the power supply to the tablet cable everything began to work
Attached Image
Attached Image

On the left photo you can see quenching resistors - on the top edge there are three pieces horizontally opposite the connectors. On the right - the power connection to bypass these resistors.

Post has been editedYekaterinburg - 03.02.15, 17:06



Rep: (9)
@ luk @ rd @ 03.02.2015, 13:08*
But how to apply power to Data + -, but not from the tablet, but from the outlet?

Judging by the experiments with cutting the red wire, the part of the USB controller scheme of the tablet, which is responsible for the data lines, can be powered from both sides (but not at the same time !!!).
- When the ID closes to ground, the tablet itself supplies power.
- When an external power source is connected, for example, through an additional power supply cable, the tablet recognizes external devices that have a separate power supply and does not recognize it without power. It also suggests the designated assumption.

Post has been editedRatatouille - 03.02.15, 17:22
Reason for editing: correction



Rep: (82)
Yekaterinburg @ 03.02.2015, 16:54*
already through two resistors

Why is this? Oh, got it. You are a little differently connected.
do you?
Attached Image

in my scheme, the hub is a regular hub with add. power, while the current through the hub resistor passes after it has passed through the peripheral devices (because you separately connected the wires from the outlet to the hub, and I used the hub's USB mother connectors).
~ WOLF ~ @ 03.02.2015, 17:29*
Listen comrades buy already a hub with charging

Tell me where you saw the factory hub with SIMULTANEOUS charging the tablet and connecting the periphery to the tablet (in the subject only 1 person found this, and even that is not entirely clear whether this hub can do that). And I have ordinary hubs so full. And yes, some people buy from China (and wait a month when they arrive) is problematic.

Post has been edited@ luk @ rd - 03.02.15, 17:59



Rep: (8)
@ luk @ rd @ 03.02.2015, 06:31*
Why is this? Oh, got it. You are a little differently connected.

You misunderstood. Without reworking hub, it can only be powered by one way - to stick the cord from charging to the USB port. In this case, the fee will fall through the resistor of this port. There are three free ports each connected to +5 cards through a resistor. So it turns out that any peripherals connected to these ports will be powered through two resistors. For the low-power, this is enough. For energy-intensive - no. And for a full charge too. In the photo you can see these resistors. I wrote incorrectly - there are not three them there and four - one at the port.

Post has been editedYekaterinburg - 03.02.15, 17:54



Rep: (82)
stakeOfMistake @ 02/03/2015, 17:39*
Real, guys, I did not understand, a lot of schemes laid out, so there is a working manual, how to assemble a hub + charging? or a ready-made hub, but it is not clear whether it is worth collecting something yourself, will it work and what is the best scheme?

I already made 2 cables (+1 hub) for myself. Working manualis here.He wrote on his own experience. Both schemes are identical there (but one for just the cable, the other for the hub with charging). Everything works, it is done very simply. (and do not look at the last 5 pages, this is a discussion of a possible new scheme, as long as it is only an outline). Only schemes from the FAQ are working.



Rep: (82)
FAQ on creating a cable to simultaneously charge the tablet and connect peripheral devices


Wrote the instruction "How to make a homemade cable / USB hub for simultaneous charging and using USB without soldering in 5 minutes":

How to make a homemade cable for simultaneous charging and using USB without soldering for 5 minutes (using tape-locks) - allows you to make a cable / USB hub, even if you do not have a soldering iron, everything is described in detail, with photos for clarity.

If you can not make a homemade cable according to the instructions above, you can do:
USB-hab to simultaneously charge the tablet and connect peripherals without soldering and redoing the wires (only standard cables are used, pay attention to the pros and cons of such a hub).

In our topic, I saw 3 peoplewith OTG charging cable and each has its own scheme.

First schemefromVasiliy S. (the most simple)
Second circuitfromunix_id idea development about using resistor from Yekaterinburg
Third schemefromJazz707 and HUB circuit + simultaneous charging
+
scheme from the topic on Onda V975w(tested, working, similar to the scheme fromVasiliy S. , there are helpful tips)

Also in the subject userfor_messer I found a factory USB hub with simultaneous charging of the tablet and the ability to use peripheral devices via USB - OTG Hub Cable Connector Spliter for Smartphone Computer Tablet PC. Buy it here . (So ​​far this only USB hub that works on our tablet. All other USB hubs can not at the same time charge the tablet and connect peripherals to it).
P.S. If you have another purchased USB hub, which can also simultaneously charge the tablet and connect peripherals to it, write me

Post has been edited@ luk @ rd - 08.02.15, 12:00



Rep: (13)
Yekaterinburg @ 03.02.2015, 20:45*
At the same time, the board will be powered through the resistor of this port.

This is probably in bad hubs) If I am not mistaken, in expensive hubs there is a Schottky diode, it seems that will not allow the current to flow back. I can be wrong

Post has been editedenamchuk - 03.02.15, 18:42



Rep: (8)
in expensive hubs is a Schottky diode

May be. On this board it is soldered in planar cases. More on resistors like. But if diodes were standing there, then it would be impossible to power the hub through our port.



Rep: (82)
Here is the link withebay on that same The only factory hub with simultaneous charging and connecting peripherals: hub with simultaneous charging and connecting peripherals (note that there is a switch on it!).

Do not confusewith such a hub. It cannot simultaneously charge and connect peripherals (just like all other hubs). Please note that it does not have a switch, this hub will have to be “finished” by itself.according to this instruction.

By the way, there is a similarhub for note 3Maybe it will also work on our tablet (this is just an assumption, no one has checked it).

Post has been edited@ luk @ rd - 04.02.15, 00:05



Rep: (26)
* @ luk @ rd,
I spoke about thishttp: //ru.aliexpress.c...tml? recommendVersion = 1



Rep: (82)
* ~ WOLF ~,
so we talked about the same thing.

I bought myself a microUSB-dad-USB-mum adaptersuch. It works the same way as the adapter that comes with the tablet.

HereandhereThey made a cable with additional power for the Samsung Galaxy S2 (interesting information, similar to our case)

For those who want to connect a mouse or a keyboard with a PS \ 2 interface to the tablet (although this is already a rarity, the de facto standard is USB)
Connect any PS / 2 keyboard and / or USB mouse

Overview of solder paste.

Soldering using an autogen lighter (without a soldering iron)

Post has been edited@ luk @ rd - 08.02.15, 09:04



Rep: (8)
I tried to deceive the tablet. I plugged the connector into the hub with the wires shorted like a bp. I thought the hub will tell the tablet that charging is connected and it will be charged with a large current. I'm naive :)



Rep: (5)
USB mom-mom turned out to be more difficult than microUSB-dad - USB mom (the main thing is not OTG with closed contacts) ... through the hub the charge goes but naturally weak decreases somewhere by 5% per hour ... I think this option is better because . There is no general heating from charging Akum.

t100 has the same problem; there is no power through the dock and your normal one

Post has been editednet23-ramzes - 08.02.15, 19:00



Rep: (8)
Originally bought this hub. Redid on charging. But because of the flimsy connectors, the contact to external devices constantly disappeared.
Old hub
I bought this one
New hub
Connectors are not much better. The fact that he USB 3.0 does not matter. Redid the power. Just soldered the wire to the central output of the power connector on the board and to the corresponding output of the miniUSB connector on the board too. Or rather, not to the output itself, but to the resistor (or diode) that goes to the microUSB power contact on the connector side. Everything is working. But you can not use the bundled cord. He is out

Post has been editedYekaterinburg - 21.02.15, 18:39


Full version    

Help     rules

Now: 26.12.20, 21:54