Power Bank do it yourself | [hand-made] [how-to] make battery



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Power Bank do it yourself
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Post has been editedAndrewP_1 - 07.06.19, 15:37
Reason for editing: reshaping the header, edited by Kokwe



Rep: (262)
Then another question. In the scheme from the previous post, at least there is a charging indicator (red, when charged, blue). Yes, and break a working paverbank sorry ...

But there is a similar scheme from an even more terrible Chinese creation (with a solar panel and a 400 mAh can). However, there is no indicator (more precisely, there is 1 LED. But it either shines when cut into the network, or does not shine when cut off. So there’s no sense from it).

The question is - is there any protection against overcharging the battery? Or will it push current into the battery until it bends?

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For this device is not a pity, but contacts for the solar battery (or any other source for transfer to the bank) will not be superfluous ...

Post has been editedanarkill - 12.12.14, 14:10



Rep: (52)
* anarkill, Write the names of semiconductors, except for diodes.
but so on the vskidku, without protection



Rep: (262)
* Karl-Ieronim,
I identified that I could.
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Rep: (52)
* anarkill,
no protection - only a step-up stabilizer (E5) and two transistors - a Q1 step-down, a Q2-switch for the LED. which should, in theory, be opened when the battery will be 4.2V (ie, it will charge).

here you can do this:
1. use for charging the PSU with a current of 1/10 of the battery and charge without fear.
2. use battery protection board (sold separately).
3. solder mikruhu (there is a description above, there are analogues with minimal weight, for exampleLTC4054, in ChiD she is bestial money worth).
4. buy separatelyheadscarfcharge andwrap in blue tapeattach q1 b q2 in place by throwing 3 wiring (if you use the existing mini-ssB connector, then "+ in", "+ out", "GND").Attached Image

5. adjust the key Q2 so that it opens at a voltage of 4.2 (will signal the end of charge) by selecting R6.

Post has been editedKarl-Ieronim - 12.12.14, 23:56



Rep: (262)
* Karl-Ieronim,
Thanks again for the help. So for now, I will use the BP at 0.25A from this miracle of Chinese engineering and waitjust such a scarfIn order to create a convenient PowerBank (just by that time, from the old battery of the laptop, I pull a pair of still quite alive 18650).

Post has been editedanarkill - 13.12.14, 01:09



Rep: (52)
* anarkill, good shawl.
If you buy it on mt3608, then you can get not only 5V, but more - some devices just need 12 or 19 (Acer W500)



Rep: (4)
I want to collect a power bank from the lines of ion batteries from different phones and different capacities together with a board from power bank 18650 with Ali. Will it work?



Rep: (52)
* serega25melni,
will be: yes2:
Only two boards are needed - for charging and for what would get 5V.
here in the subject is their photo

Post has been editedKarl-Ieronim - 02.01.15, 10:48



Rep: (4)
I want to take a fee from this miraclehttp://m.aliexpress.com/item/32256471923.htmlAnd I have 1A batteries. Pieces 3 will be, and at 1.5A. one All lithium ion. Can they be in parallel? Do I need to equalize the charge before soldering?



Rep: (52)
* serega25melni, In principle, it is possible in parallel.
This is certainly not the best option - the batteries are different, hence their capacity is different and it turns out that one is already charged and the other (third) is not there yet.
Here it is important that you charge current set as 1/10 of their capacity.

I did so from two batteries from my phone and am not worried: yes2: it works

but the board of a miracle is not the best, can we buy on TP4056? because the "wonderful" all on one transistor.

Post has been editedKarl-Ieronim - 03.01.15, 09:30



Rep: (4)
Advise then what kind of good charge you can order in order to get 5V. I charge an android smartphone.



Rep: (52)
* serega25melni, so on TP4056.
there and the current can be set necessary and the price of a scarf is a cheap one for charging.
But to shoot 5V you need another - there is on one transistor, but it is bad - the efficiency is low and the current is up to 400mA
This is not necessary to buy.
but this is necessary - there is a specialized chip and the efficiency is higher.
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Post has been editedKarl-Ieronim - 03.01.15, 18:05



Rep: (4)
Here are such found.
http: //m.aliexpress.co...etail2mobilesitedetail
http: //m.aliexpress.co...etail2mobilesitedetail
which one is better, first or second? And what element on it to regulate its parameters?
Well, or a link to yours.

Post has been editedserega25melni - 03.01.15, 20:21



Rep: (52)
* serega25melni, the one that is brown.
the blue one is on one transistor, it will warm up and burn (I’ve so worn a couple).

in brown - the bottom row of resistors (from left to right) - 4 pcs. This is the switching of YUSB signals for different devices (Apple, Samsung, NTS). R2, R4, R7, R8
the following two resistors are the choice of voltage.
in the diagram it is R3 and R6.
their relationship can be played and get the voltage up to 12 volts.
VOUT = (R3 / R6 +1) * 0.6
really why set up? they come with an output voltage of 5.2 ... 5.4 V, so everything is fine.
and its input is from 0.9 to 5 - just LiIo battery (3.7v).
so if you don't need any special stress, then just buy and turn it on.

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Post has been editedKarl-Ieronim - 04.01.15, 15:02



Rep: (8)
Help guys reanimate veterbank
http://piccy.info/view..7a99fef8ae90cbc8d697f/
http://piccy.info/view..9b565f24931a9ad02efef/
He stsuk charges the battery, but there are no blinking LEDs, and does not charge through

Post has been editedPixel.Rivne - 04.01.15, 16:49



Rep: (52)
* Pixel.Rivne,
did it happen after you connected something powerful to him for charging?

1. measure on USB A (two extreme contacts) voltage - is there 5V with a charged charge?
2. if not (or there is but 3.7V), then the converter 3.7 to 5 has burnt out from the load.
3. It may be an easy case - the Schottky diode burned (SS34 is in the middle of the board), then replace it and that's it.
4. maybe the converter itself has burned out - consists in this bank on a transistor (on the second photo of U3 and on the first Q2), then you need to unsolder and check them - I don’t see: one of them looks like a stabilizer.
5. The microcircuit on the first photo is an indicator, it is a simple indicator meter (something like AN6884), in theory, it shows the voltage on the battery itself (2.7-2.9-3.1-3.2).

Post has been editedKarl-Ieronim - 04.01.15, 17:19



Rep: (2)
* Karl-Ieronim,
Serega25melni @ 01/03/2015, 17:19*

Karl-Ieronim @ 01/03/2015, 19:45*
Its input is from 0.9 to 5 - just for LiIo battery (3.7v).
so if you don't need any special stress, then just buy and turn it on.

If I understand you correctly, can I buy this handkerchief, connect the acb from the tablet (4000) to it and bungle myself a normal PoweBank?



Rep: (52)
* MadDogMaisgriv, yes that's right
better than the one that is brown (the first one).
one that is on the second stsyli - full of! heated at 400 mA and at 500 little by little fade. although it is slightly cheaper - there instead mikruhi worth transistor
but this is only the part that will give you the opportunity to get a 5V battery.

Do I need to charge it somehow? for this you need a charge controller.
looka little higher, I brought the shemku and photo boards on the TP4056.

Change the resistor on it so that you get a current of 400mA (1/10 capacity of your battery) and voila! but before replacing, look - different Chinese are sending with different currents, it may already be as it should.
In general, this moment is not so critical - there is a "smart" controller.

Thus, two boards + battery + hour neat work andthe bristles turn into gold (s)homemade poverbank in your pocket: yes2:

Post has been editedKarl-Ieronim - 09.01.15, 11:43



Rep: (2)
* Karl-Ieronim,
Yeah, I realized ... and if you take the dead turn as a basis and insert the acb from the tablet ????
I climbed the expanses and came across an article ... if you just take and do exactly the same? Only instead of BE EL, my animal will be at 4000 ... well, and a normal (homemade) case ...
Reference

Post has been editedMadDogMaisgriv - 09.01.15, 12:35



Rep: (52)
* MadDogMaisgriv,
correct article.
but I see the converter 3.7 =>5B on one transistor - I recognize this mezrzost from any angle: D
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This is bad.

your idea, in general, is also correct, and do it, but there are moments:
1. what is the converter board (3.7 in 5) in dead faith?
2. What is the current and what is the charging part built on?
3. In general, about the fees from the old banks - the Chinese save on everything there, so throw a photo, see what it is there and how.
4. about the case - pay attention to sudochki (plastic ones) - you can pick them up under the desired size and easily finish it under the desired size.

Post has been editedKarl-Ieronim - 10.01.15, 12:00


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