if it is still important, well, and for future bricks ... I usedgiveninstructions returned the router to life

Well, all right, it remains to suggest that as a usb adapter on Prolifika (essentially usb-to-com_3.3v), the data cable from the ancient phone will go ... well, like Siemens m55
And if you just need a com port (com_std-to-com_3.3v), a level converter, then it will go from Siemens to earlier models like S35 for example .. there were some similar cables on the knobs too ..

Post has been editedAleksyENG - 28.01.14, 17:36

I used a device similar tothis. You can switch levels 5V and 3.3V. You can also use the cord, of course, only you need to make sure that the signal levels are 3.3V since obviously it is not written anywhere.
When restoring a lot of time I killed in search of a problem because of which the USB adapter did not accept the information. The case turned out to be a crooked driver, which was established after connecting the device. I didn’t think long to find a suitable driver, did everything in Ubuntu, for some reason the driver
turned out to be normal

Post has been editedMNVolkov - 31.01.14, 17:47

Good day to all.
I also decided to share my experience of resuscitation TP-LINK 3020.
The story in my opinion is quite useful. It all started with the fact that I decided to play around with the firmware from the forced idleness and got fucked up in full. Not only did I do this via WiFi, but also WiFi was heard in the same modem with factory firmware and default settings. Apparently the IPs were in conflict somewhere during the flashing, and I got a beautiful brick that blinked merrily with all the LEDs in a cyclic reboot.
Don't do that.
Grieved and climbed into Google.
The disadvantages in my position were: I was at work in the wild wilderness, no shops nearby, no USB to UART adapters, no phone cord.
Pros: on the router has already been wired UART. Unsolder it, by the way, two minutes under a standard comb 2.54. And I was in the presence of Freeduino board with a USB port. Only here's the example of its use as a USB-UART bridge in the internet I have not met. Basically, they pressed forward on the board with a few hardware UART, and then alone. Well, I'm not such a big special. However, the time was free, the modem is already semi-corpses - virtually nothing to lose. There was a risk to kill the modem completely, there was an option to wait to return home (in a month) and take the modem out there searching the normal adapter. But a month without this modem meant the loss of waste heaps of time for me, which I had planned to spend just on the gutting of the modem. The second torture was sorry and scared.
Well, go. He took freeduin, prisobachil to the computer. Found a tricky sketch on the internet:

void setup () {
pinMode (0, INPUT);
pinMode (1, INPUT);
}
void loop () {
}

And that's all. What is there input, where input is not clear. Vaguely imagining the upcoming torment with a software serial or with something else that was incomprehensible, he began to connect a modem. RX-TX, TX-RX. Somewhere they advised a resistor for matching the voltages, I did not have it. Someone advised to short the RESET to the ground, which also seemed to me suspicious. I decided that a half volt difference does not matter. The modem hooked it up to the network card and foolishly turned it on ... And I saw flashing LEDs repeating to the beat every two seconds:

U-Boot 1.1.4 (Nov 28 2011 - 09:34:00)
AP121 (ar9330) U-boot
DRAM: 32 MB
..........
.......
..
eth0, eth1
Autobooting in 1 seconds ...

And where did I see it? In the window of the Arduinov serial monitor. And at the top of the window an unobtrusively loomed input field and a button with a purely Russian “Send”. I thought, doubted, scored there "tpl ", waited for the appearance of" Autobooting in 1 seconds "and sent. Without any additional terminals there, Putty and the like. And it stopped!
It simply could not be true.
Scored "printenv " - works!

I was shocked. Then everything goes like clockwork:

- downloaded tftpd32, stuck the firmware into its folder.
- Established IP network card laptop 192.168.1.100.
- launch tftpd32, IP - 192.168.1.100, Show Dir - the path to the firmware - Copy.
- tftpboot 0x80000000 CyberWrt-v1.4.bin - done
- erase 0x9f020000 + 0x3c0000 - done
- cp.b 0x80000000 0x9f020000 0x3c0000 - done
- bootm 0x9f020000 - done!
- returned to the network card the receipt of the IP machine ...
And all this from the serial monitor from Arduino ...
And that's it! The result is a live modem! And what is interesting - I even forgot to connect the “land” between the modem and the freeduin. I noticed it after the firmware. It was just that the modem was receiving power from the USB of the same laptop as the Freeduino, apparently it connected somewhere there :).
ZY: I soldered this Fiduin from the assembly kit, before that I didn’t solder anything smaller than the iron wire. Somehow I had a bigger picture when I ordered. In the middle of the process was already completely sure -this will never work. Earned infection.
So - the eyes are afraid, and the hands do. Good luck to all who will repeat.

Post has been editedojw - 19.02.14, 03:13

Hello to all.
I ask for help I have this router. The essence of the problem is that I flashed it with CyberWrt-v1.4 firmware. But I would like to return to the original \ factory firmware. After reading the forums, I realized that this can be done only through the USB-to-Serial adapter. There was no adapter at hand, but the cable from the old Nokia bodies with the marking MA-8620E caught the eye. By connecting it to a PC, it was just defined as Prolific USB-to-Serial Comm Port. The essence of the questions:
1. Is this cable suitable?
2.If yes. Tell me what wire to connect? (Just 7 cables in this cable, and only 4 pin in the router)
3. After connecting with the router, which program is needed. Step-by-step instructions would not hurt.

ZY Also my PC has a COM port. If this cable does not fit, is it possible to connect the router to the COM port and how?

The Nokia cable should fit, there is a USB-COM-UART converter. What wires where to look for pinout cable.
If there is a simple COM port. you can build your own COM-UART converter, for example, on Max3232 (classic) or buy / ask friends for it.

And with the modem E3272 earn?

Guys, tell me how to configure on the standard firmware the distribution of the Internet through wi-fi? There is an adsl modem, and our router, do we need a clone of a Mac? Or just connect to configure the wi-fi parameters and that's it?)))

Now for the login all the time, the password asks to enter

Greetings.
Someone tell me. With custom firmware 3020 IPTV will start processing normally?

For IPTV, you need to collect the firmware with the necessary packages. In the custom firmware for the modem there is no place for these packages. Therefore, it does not support IPTV.



The idea should work. If there are verified results, then you can start collecting a list of tested modems and devices in the header.


Post has been editedhardd2007 - 05.05.14, 11:34

Checked with modems: E369, E303 (HiLink) - works without any additional "gestures"

Open wrt after flashing from officially. Modem zte 830ft does not detect. How to cure this nuance)

Good day to all!
Today, after the openwrt firmware (Gargoyle 1.6) found an interesting thing, the modem does not support devices with a consumption of more than ~ 350 ma as the modem was e171.
After flashing the modem light began to work much more closely, the device is not visible in the system.
Connecting to the computer, everything works, there is an assumption that the firmware limits the power supply.
Return to the native firmware did not give the result. Maybe someone has a basic (electrical) scheme of the router, I want to remove the restriction.

Thank,
Vyacheslav.

Snaker99,
power supply router more than 1.0A set(only not more than 3A), the problem will disappear ...

I also add that the MR3020 is an electronic key for de-energizing the USB port (GPIO8). Sometimes, at a high voltage (>5B) of the power supply and the powerful consumer (E392), it starts working incorrectly or “burns out” at all. As an option, supply power to the port directly. To do this, solder the jumper next to it, on the pad with 5V, which is next to the miniusb connector.

The jumper is soldered, and it all worked, even m150-1
Thank.

Is it possible to specify on the photo or the scheme between what to solder the jumper?

Attached