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> 3D printer Anycubic Mega-S | [other]
max-gulyash
Message#1
14.02.19, 11:11
kuzmichov
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Anycubic Mega-S 3D Printer (Updated i3 Mega)

Attached Image

Anycubic Mega-S is the successor to the popular Mega i3 printer with updated components that allow you to print flexible materials. It also has an integrated coil holder for a more compact look.

Features:
- Upgraded extruder capable of printing flexible parts with TPU filament
- Ultrabase's innovative heated 3D printing platform makes it very easy to remove parts after cooling. Details will have a nice smooth bottom surface.
- Integrated one-piece filament holder for smoother material delivery and compact placement. The newest V5 nozzle that makes printing accurate and fast. The risk of clogging is greatly reduced.
- Simple assembly. The printer was mainly pre-assembled at the factory and tested within 24 hours. Assembly is only 8 screws and three cables, and you are ready to go. The kit even includes 1 kg of filament.
- Dual Z-axis sensors make calibration more accurate
- Durable aluminum profile frame. A stiffer frame results in more accurate printing.
- Simple navigation and quick response on a TFT color touch screen. It has a multilingual menu and a wide range of software options.
- Resume printing after power loss. A useful feature, especially for large print models.
- Intelligent temperature control system. It provides a temperature within 2 ° C of its parameters to prevent the accidental effect of thermal acceleration.


Device photos
Attached Image


Device characteristics
Printing technology: FDM
Print dimensions: 210x210x205 mm
Layer height: 0.05-0.3 mm
Accuracy: X / Y: 0.0125 mm, Z: 0.002 mm
Number of Extruders: One
Nozzle diameter: 0.4 mm
Print speed: 20 ~ 100 mm / s (suggested 60mm / s)
Supported materials: PLA, ABS, TPU, HIPS, Wood
Filament diameter: 1.75 mm
Operating ambient temperature: 8-40 ° C
Extruder operating temperature: max 260 ° C
Table working temperature: max 110 ° C
Slicer software: Cura, Simplify3D, Repetier-HOST
Supported slicer formats: .STL, .OBJ, .DAE, .AMF
Supported print formats: GCODE
Connections: SD memory card; USB cable (for advanced users)
Input voltage: 110/220 VAC, 50/60 Hz
Printer dimensions: 405x410x453 mm
Weight: ~ 11 kg

Drivers, Firmware and Software
Drivers:
Attached fileMega-S_Win_Drivers.zip(3.66 MB)

Attached fileMega-S_Mac_Driver.zip(183.14 KB)
Linux (drivers self-defined)

Firmware:
Attached filev1.1.2.hex.zip(99.41 KB)
(08/10/2018) - for i3 Meganotupgraded to Mega-S
Attached filev1.1.3.hex.zip(114.68 KB)
(02/25/2019) - for Mega-S and i3 Mega upgraded to Mega-S
Attached filev1.2.0.hex.zip(99.41 KB)
(December 17, 2018) - It was recalled by the manufacturer, but I did not personally observe any problems on it. Also designed for Mega-S and i3 Mega upgraded to Mega-S

Slicer Cura- Windowsx32|x64| Macx32|x64| Linuxx32|x64
(all the latest versions of the Cura slicer are available only for x64 architecture)

3D models for Anycubic Mega

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Post has been editedmax-gulyash - 28.03.19, 09:24
Reason for editing: desktop resistance
max-gulyash
Message#2
15.02.19, 14:54
kuzmichov
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Hello. Recently, the son of the DR was and as a gift he wanted a 3D printer. The choice fell on Anycubic Mega-S in its price range. This is an updated version of the popular Anycubic i3 Mega model, with some improvements and enhancements. Their sale began not so long ago, basically all reviews go only to i3. Mega-S, I bought 16,900 rubles for Ali from the official seller of Anycubic Official Store with delivery from a warehouse in Moscow and brought it to my home on the 4th day after ordering, and on Saturday ... I thought there was no delivery on weekends, but there was pleasantly surprised. After watching the clips, after receiving and unpacking, the smartest started right away with the firmware and PC connection and it turns out I did not know much and did not take into account. It seemed to me that everything was so simple that I downloaded the model from the network, threw it onto the map and forth, but it was not there! Without a PC and a presentation of what a slicer is and why it is needed, you will not achieve the desired result. In fact, all printers are the same CNC machine. Slicer translates the 3D model into layers, and the layers into the code with commands, starting from the command to start the heating of the table and feeding them further with what temperature of the nozzle to which point to move and how much filament to extrude. Honestly, the first models I had a quality of shit, until the 3rd day I didn’t get into the essence of this matter. Therefore, I got the idea to make a theme here, on a forum familiar to electronic devices, where people are far from PC in terms of technical software, but who bought a 3D printer for themselves or children, download GCODE and print an interesting model without unnecessary gestures. It is important to understand that the models in the network are represented in the STL format, the printer’s owner needs to specify a bunch of parameters, such as temperature or speed, substrate or skirt, layer thickness, filling, support, etc. with a slicer. etc. Through trial and error, as well as numerous settings, I was able to achieve excellent printing on this printer. I propose to lay out ready-made models in GCODE.
When making a post with a model, we indicate:
- model name
- model image and, if possible, a live photo after printing
- type of material used
- layer height
- filling in% ratio
- model sizes
- print time
- live photo after printing (if possible)
- GCODE and STL files

Basically now I am printing PLA and my opinion is that it is a very good plastic, ABS will be used only where more temperature conditions are needed in using the printed model. For example, muffling the seat mounting in a car printed out of PLA in the summer may deform you from heating the passenger compartment in the southern regions. Such things are certainly better to print from ABS. I haven't tried other materials yet, so I can't say anything. In principle, the GCODE laid out here should be suitable not only for Anycubic Mega-S and i3 for printing out of the box, but also for other printers with a 0.4mm nozzle diameter and a filament of 1.75mm. So try, ask questions, share the settings of the slicer and print lifehacks)

Post has been editedmax-gulyash - 15.02.19, 17:15
max-gulyash
Message#3
15.02.19, 15:34
kuzmichov
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Let's start small ... It is useful in the household, especially for those who don’t like to wear change in their pockets or often without cash with a bank card or nfc
Key for supermarket trolleys
Attached Image
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PLA material
Layer 0.1mm
Filling 100%
Size 22x43x2mm
Print time ~ 15 minutes
Attached filekeeeyyy.zip(115.57 KB)


Here I used 100% filling. we need a strong reusable key ... While checked in "Lenta" - works with a bang

Post has been editedmax-gulyash - 15.02.19, 16:15
max-gulyash
Message#4
15.02.19, 16:46
kuzmichov
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Let's continue with one more thing in the household ...
Clamp
Attached Image

PLA material
Layer 0.1mm
Filling 100%
Size 83x35x21mm
Printing time ~ 5 hours 20 minutes
Attached fileclamp.zip(8.89 MB)


For the strength of the parts made a layer of 0.1 and filling 100%. A very strong clamp has been printed. Only one thing ... support in the hole of the bolshevat, a chore to pick out from the thread. The archive also STL for the extended version

Post has been editedmax-gulyash - 15.02.19, 17:13
MECHANISM
Message#5
15.02.19, 19:11
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Hello to all. Took a copy of this printer, Dexp MG. With a guarantee in CSN. All the same, only the menu in Russian.
Question, and you have an auto level setup? And for some reason, with the new firmware, I do not have it. But he calibrates himself, before each seal.


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max-gulyash
Message#6
15.02.19, 20:28
kuzmichov
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* MECHANISM,

Good evening. You have Anicubic i3 Mega just rebranded by some retailer and at the Anycubic factory they print on order another brand on the frame, Russify the display, because I disassembled it and I have my own miniUSB on the display firmware
This printer does not have autocalibrations, it has mechanical regulators.
After the firmware, go to Menu - Tools - Reset (Menu - Tools - Reset) and perform a reset
We heat the table Menu - Setup - Temp - Bed Temp (Menu - Tools - Temperature - Table temperature) and set 60 degrees
Next Menu - Tools - Home - Home all (Menu - Tools - Home - Home all)
Then go to Menu - Setup - Motor Off (Menu - Settings - Motor Off) and turn off the motors, now you can move the carriage and the table manually and move the extruder carriage slightly so that it just goes to the desktop.
Starting from the bottom left corner, calibrate the table so that there a little shkryabaya (not tight and not easy to move) crawled through a standard A4 sheet and so around in all corners twisting their thumb at every angle. I advise you to make 2-3 calibration laps
Well, turn off the heating Menu - Tools - Colling (Menu - Tools - Cooling)
Video


Post has been editedmax-gulyash - 15.02.19, 22:30
MECHANISM
Message#7
15.02.19, 20:37
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* max-gulyashYes, I have already calibrated, thanks) I really don’t know how good it is Do you recommend hot or cold?
Included detailed instructions are. I have already printed both hinges and a holder for his tools on the upper left corner (great stuff, by the way). Just auto calibration is in all reviews. More precisely, a semi-automatic. And in the old version of the instructions for my too. And in my already this point is not. I now wondered why it was removed and whether it is in the newest cube.


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max-gulyash
Message#8
15.02.19, 21:17
kuzmichov
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* MECHANISM,
maybe because the tables have spoiled the extruder by touching it ... I can only guess. And in general, I can’t imagine how without expensive sensors with video cameras you can auto-calibrate. To trust one sensor of pressure on the nozzle and -0.1 mm rollback ... I don’t know how it works in printers with fully automatic calibration, but I probably wouldn’t believe it in budget printers
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Message#9
15.02.19, 21:23
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* max-gulyash, I agree. And when you print on the 0.2 layer, and the speed of 40 mm horizontal waviness is small? To the touch is, the eye is not visible. ABS.
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max-gulyash
Message#10
15.02.19, 22:33
kuzmichov
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* MECHANISM,
I set up to print an extreme layer at a lower speed ... now I’ll clear the settings

Actually here are my print settings:
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Accordingly, some settings are individual and depend on the model itself, the desired result and time of printing.
Base layer height
Filling density
The temperature of the nozzle and the table (these indicators also depend on the material)
Support (the printer can actually print at a good angle and in some cases support is not needed at all, so sometimes I turn it off, also saves time)
The type of sticking to the table (I mostly use the skirt, but sometimes models like astronaut, later I will throw off, they require a substrate ... otherwise there can be a gap in the middle of the print and that's it ... beard)
The rest of the settings I chose for myself optimal and try not to touch them, especially the last 3 points.

Post has been editedmax-gulyash - 15.02.19, 23:17
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Message#11
15.02.19, 22:57
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* max-gulyashThanks, helpful. Print completely satisfied? Can you show how the wall prints?
And about the calibration, it is still done on the hot, or on the cold?


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max-gulyash
Message#12
15.02.19, 23:06
kuzmichov
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* MECHANISM,
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Some models still require processing from the supports. Yesterday I bought ...
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for PLA and I want to make a "bath" for post-processing models

Regarding the calibration, it is better for a hot one;

Post has been editedmax-gulyash - 15.02.19, 23:29
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Message#13
16.02.19, 22:34
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* max-gulyash,and at you ABS keeps normally? And then I have only with glue-pencil / hairspray, and then through time. Although 247/110.
By the way, if you have not done it yet, I highly recommend printing fasteners for a regular tool. Very comfortably.
A photo
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max-gulyash
Message#14
16.02.19, 23:49
kuzmichov
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* MECHANISM,
I and PLA only print with hairspray ... Once the gap was on a complex part in the middle, now I don’t risk
Although if the plane is large bottom, then without all
Remove stl fasteners
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17.02.19, 16:57
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Remove stl fasteners

Here it is.There are 3 types, I approached the freshest because I have one screwdriver included.


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akarui
Message#16
18.02.19, 13:18
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Bought this model a week ago in the workshop. I print only with ABS plastic of neutral and black color, produced by Volprint (sold in Voronezh, which is much more convenient than waiting for a parcel from another region). With black, light problems, because small artifacts appear on the model periodically.
Empirically set for myself the following temperature settings: 240 degrees for the extruder on all layers; heated table - 117 on the first layer, 115 on the rest. The parts do not stick out, neither the small M5 nuts, nor large parts like a cooling ring for an extruder, when cooling the table to ~ 80 degrees, the models are easily removed with fingers (the Ultrabase table is not necessary to smear with any filth).
Because the workshop is located in the basement, where the temperature is kept at 15 ° C (and to warm the table to ~ 120 ° VERY long, believe me), on the very first day I collected a plywood and acrylic box for the printer. The next day, I bought a foil-insulated heater 8mm thick, and, using a glue gun, brought the thermo box to my mind.
As a result, the printer is ready for printing in about 15 minutes, it works inside the box in greenhouse conditions, neither drafts nor sharp temperature fluctuations.
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Post has been editedakarui - 18.02.19, 13:30
MECHANISM
Message#17
18.02.19, 13:21
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* akarui
And how is your airflow set up?

table Ultrabase no need to smear

I, too, at first it was so. And then the surface of the glass was not so sticky.

Post has been editedMECHANISM - 18.02.19, 13:33


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akarui
Message#18
18.02.19, 13:33
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* MECHANISM,standard airflow - 50%. Starter, on the first layers (if necessary, I will look in the slicer how much exactly) - 15%. In addition, I printed a custom ring for blowing, added in the photos. Vertical holes print without supports ... in most cases.

Posted on 02/18/2019 1:36 PM:

* MECHANISM,about the stickiness of the table — the manufacturer himself after 3–6 months recommends walking with fine-grained emery paper.
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Message#19
18.02.19, 13:43
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printed out a custom ring for blowing

I also printed it - but I did not notice the difference. I tried on the test print of bridges, it turned out the same. I think that was understood - you need to change the regular cooler to normal.

Post has been editedMECHANISM - 18.02.19, 13:43


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akarui
Message#20
18.02.19, 13:49
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* MECHANISM,and my effect was noticeable. When I printed a faceless figure with standard one-sided blowing, there were flows from the side where the air flow did not go (I’ll add a photo). Now there are no such problems.
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Post has been editedakarui - 18.02.19, 13:51
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Message#21
18.02.19, 15:06
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Did someone figure out how to sew a printer? There is a HEX file, but what to do with it? Either it just needs to be put on a memory card, or through some program from the US PC ...


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