[X]Assistant

[vtorofff]

The guy compared the testimony of applications and white doctor:Doogee BL9000 - Discussion (Post by shlns # 79765917)

[Vitaliyk]

vtorofffThis is, it seems, not a classic white doctor whose input jack on a flexible wire. Well, the numbers are not clear - in the 2nd version the difference is more than 100 mA, and the person says about "ten mA" ...

[psycoz]

bl0nde @ 3.12.18, 13:43

to 4.45V and it seems to be valid for 2 meters

the lower voltage limit of the USB specification is 4.75V .. A cable with such a voltage drop as you had at 2A I would call the term junk (conditionally valid voltage I would say above 4.6V) .. But for charge 1A most likely will come down ..

Post has been editedpsycoz - 05.12.18, 11:26

[bl0nde]

Psycoz @ 05.12.18, 11:22

the lower limit of the voltage specification USB - 4.75V .. Cable with the voltage drop as you have at 2A, I would call the term junk

For this cable already returned the money, for his "brother" was also worth getting, but now I think late

[Bloody56]

Has anyone tried DTU-1705 (L)? As he sank down to me, after another tester died .... The reviews and the difference between 1705 and 1705L are interesting except for the body color

[Vitaliyk]

Bloody56,
I found only the video on the u-tube about the black DTU-1705L

youtube

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9_9GSC6HuXc

Movie, like a good one.
This is a novelty, so there are no reviews even on Ali.
Judging by this video - an interesting universal version of the tester turned out.
The differences between red 1705 and black 1705L are clearly not visible ... Only in the description of red is the accuracy for current and voltage 0.0001V / A, and for black on the box it is visible in the video numbers 0.001V / A ... (although in descriptions sellers then 0.001, then 0.0001 - confusion)
But the price is the same ...
In general, it is not clear yet.
Buy, tell us later! :)

[Bloody56]

[email protected], 13:45

Buy, tell us later!

Yes, I ordered L. I look forward to

[Bloody56]

[email protected], 13:45

Buy, tell us later!

Accidentally dug it

Thus, it turns out that 1705 measures more precisely (4 decimal places), has voltage and current protection, but does not support qc, while 1705L has three decimal places, there is no protection, but there are qc support for different algorithms ... This makes no sense
FoundDTU-1705L reviewwith photos of the board, if anyone here understands this hardware, say your weighty word

UPD: I contacted the person who wrote the review on the link above, he has a ready review on DTU-1705. In a nutshell, the difference is that version 1705L does not have protection against overcurrent and voltage and its accuracy is slightly less, 3 decimal places, while version 1705 has 4 of them. But in version L there are triggers that are not in 1705. It turns out that there is no ideal option, each with pluses and minuses. At first it was assumed that by flashing it is possible to change 1705 to 1705L and vice versa, but alas, no. The boards are different, although the basic elements are the same.

Fee 1705

Fee 1705L

I will add everything written upon receipt of my DTU-1705L

Post has been editedBloody56 - 15.12.18, 21:12

[Xomagold]

Good day, leafing through the forum, but I don’t see my own problem (well, or look bad), tell me pj. There is a tester J7-T I connect charging 2.1 And it shows 0.7 A + - it jumps to 1.1 ) shows filled-in watches in the phone, because The battery is 4000 mAh, and the tester showed that only 2400 mAh was installed, the installed application (Accu Battery) on the phone shows that the phone received 3600 mAh during the same time. The question is the following: I need to calibrate the tester in the system settings or the tester does not work correctly for me, or am I looking somewhere else? There is also a loadhttps: //hz.ru.aliexpre…311.0.0.a17e33edGKqRrj(I bought just in case, but when I connect to the tester, I don’t see it. I don’t quite understand; it should show 1.2.3 amps, but not in fact, on the first charge with 5V = 2A output it shows 0.64A, 1.64A and 1.A , and on charging with QC 3.0 5V = 3A, 9V = 2A, 12V = 1.5A shows 0.62A, 1.84A, 2.85A, the voltage is about the same everywhere showing 5.22 V.

[Bloody56]

[email protected], 18:27

I connect charging 2.1 A and it shows 0.7 A + - jumps to 1.1 A while charging the phone

What is the voltage?
2.1A is the maximum charging recoil current, such as what it is capable of. At the same time, the phone does not squeeze the last juices out of charge, but takes as much as is written in the kernel sources of your firmware. As a rule, the charge current should be equal to half the battery capacity or so, that is, with a 3000 mAh battery, the current should be about 1.5A, more precisely, not higher than this value. But this is all about the spherical horse in a vacuum, and in fact there are a lot of nuances, such as charging quality, cable quality, quality of the charging connection contacts and the phone itself. All this only lowers the charging current.
Also, do not forget that the measurement should be done in the usual 5V mode, without QC, since the QC controller in the phone distorts the result strongly because it converts the current and the wrong value goes to the battery

[email protected], 18:27

4000 mAh new battery

You may need to look for the problem here. I doubt that he is more than 3000 in fact. What device and what battery?

Post has been editedBloody56 - 16.12.18, 20:33

[Xomagold]

Bloody56,

Bloody56 @ 16.12.18, 20:13

What device and what battery?

. Xiaomi redmi not 5

[Bloody56]

[email protected], 23:24

Xiaomi redmi not 5

Try to charge through the tester in the off state a fully discharged device without using qc

[Xomagold]

The battery is built-in there, the phone I bought a couple of months. He lives a day and a half at least, as I think a decent load, and if you look at tanks and vidosiki all day long, you just live from morning to evening.
By the way, today I made a full charge from zero to 100%. The tester showed a total volume of 2000 mAh.


Posted 12/16/2018 at 21:34:

Yes, the phone was turned off, but it was charging from fast charging

[Bloody56]

[email protected], 23:33

Yes, the phone was turned off, but it was charging from fast charging

I would not recommend it at all. Not to mention the fact that such a standstill is a waste of time

Post has been editedkoordinator - 17.12.18, 10:54

Reason for editing: +1 by Xomagold

[Vitaliyk]

Xomagold @ 16.12.18, 16:27

There is also a loadhttps: //hz.ru.aliexpre…311.0.0.a17e33edGKqRrj(I bought just in case, but when I connect to the tester, I don’t see it. I don’t quite understand; it should show 1.2.3 amps, but not in fact, on the first charge with 5V = 2A output it shows 0.64A, 1.64A and 1.A , and on charging with QC 3.0 5V = 3A, 9V = 2A, 12V = 1.5A shows 0.62A, 1.84A, 2.85A, the voltage is about the same everywhere showing 5.22 V.

The link does not open, unfortunately. Therefore, I can not answer ...

[email protected], 21:33

Yes, the phone was turned off, but it was charging from fast charging

Look at the FAQ, question Q10 -Selection, comparison and discussion of the use of USB testers / "USB doctors" (VitaliyK Post # 77889195)
Like, 1st point is clearly your case
Therefore, nothing needs to be calibrated. With your tester and battery everything is fine.
99%

Xomagold @ 16.12.18, 16:27

I have a tester J7-T I connect the charging 2.1 And it shows 0.7 A + - jumps to 1.1 And when I charge the phone there are doubts about the correctness of the readings

If the readings are constantly jumping, more than a few minutes after connecting the charging, then most likely the problem is in the quality of the cable.
And if only at the beginning - then this is just a “handshake” from Q8 -Selection, comparison and discussion of the use of USB testers / "USB doctors" (VitaliyK Post # 77889195)
If the cable is bad, the voltage at a higher current will sink much lower than 5V on the phone's charging connector. Only with J7-T you can’t be sure of it, because it has no micro usb input

Read more Q6:
Selection, comparison and discussion of the use of USB testers / "USB doctors" (VitaliyK Post # 77889195)

Post has been editedkoordinator - 17.12.18, 10:55

Reason for editing: +1 by Xomagold

[Erkki]

Good evening.

Got an active load HD35. However, I didn’t quite understand how to check the memory with QC2 / QC3 support?
Those. There is a memory from the Xiaomi phone with QC2 / QC3 support, a USB tester UM25C and a HD35 active load. How to switch on QC2 and QC3 mode on this load?

[crimeafrend]

Who faced this troubles. The HIDANCE USB tester began to half all measured voltages. The display shows exactly half the real voltage passing through the device. Moreover, the amperage is shown normally. What is the reason and most importantly, is it possible to return an adequate indication?

[SnapShot86]

crimeafrend,

On my KEWEISI blue, too, the voltage is rigidly underrated, everything is ok with the current, is it also interesting whether it can be restored

[Vitaliyk]

Erkki @ 12/30/18, 17:09

Got an active load HD35. However, I didn’t quite understand how to check the memory with QC2 / QC3 support?

Because I do not have such a load, then the theory based on the musk and roller in YouTube:

Quote from may-sku

... New trigger mode fast charge:
A long press on the "Trigger" button turns on the mode, the red QC2.0 LED lights up.
Repeated short press to switch in a circle: to the green LED (QC3.0), blue (FCP / AFC) and all three LEDs (AUTO) ...

On the product page on Ali in their Russian translation

https: //www.aliexpress....0-USB/32917594486.html
Q & A
Q: My battery charger is Nominal maximum support QC2.0 12V2A, how will I check if the charger is supported?

A: Insert the load, long press the trigger button, then short press the "OK" button, after the red light flashes, then short press twice to switch to QC2.0 12V mode. Press the trigger button to enter load, and press the SET button to check if the current voltage is about 12 volts. Turn on the load and slowly adjust the current to 2A. Check the voltage to see if there is a significant drop (>0.5 V), then let the load work for a while and measure the heating of the charging head. If the load is restarted, or the voltage has a significant drop, or the charging head has an acute heat, the charge cannot be fully loaded and must be used with a reduced load.

Those. in one place they write about a long press of the trigger button and switching short to the desired mode
And in another place - a completely different sequence of button presses ... :(

Those. We must try these options. On which voltage boost will work up to 9 / 12V - that includes QC

crimeafrend @ 12/31/18, 04:11

The HIDANCE USB tester began to half all measured voltages. The display shows exactly half the real voltage passing through the device.

It looks like something hardware ...
Perhaps it makes sense to disassemble, inspect soldering, etc ....
Without a link, what kind of tester is also not clear.

If this proportion does not change evenly and exactly with the voltage change, it is even difficult to imagine what it is ... if a specific one bit / bus disappeared, for example due to soldering, the ADC output, then the high bit should give error close to half, but not exactly half ...

Another option is such an option (but it is unlikely that it will help):
Some testers have a mode of special settings when it is connected with a clamped button to the power supply.
You can try to enter this mode if it is provided. Perhaps there is a reset to the factory settings, but I don’t remember exactly - I saw something like setting / correcting zero over current, setting thresholds for an audible alarm ... but all this is not suitable for voltage correction :(

It seemed that there was such a thing that it was possible to adjust something with multiple quick clicks ... The display language was set somewhere like this - with the 5th or 6th press - but then everything was blind - you need to look for instructions. Perhaps there is a reset ...

Maybe someone else will tell you something ...
PS: with Coming :)

Post has been editedVitaliyk - 31.12.18, 18:36

[kvidkus79]

VitaliyK @ 12/31/18, 17:33

Maybe someone else will tell you something ..

Since the model of the tester is unknown, there is one more assumption - the smart is charged with fast charging, but the tester does not support it and then the readings can be halved.
Now a few of his observations and what he read in the vast neta.
There are many references to the type of why to buy expensive if you can do the same cheap. Disappoint in this matter. Cheap not only do not know how to do almost anything (as mentioned most of them do not support fast charging, and naturally half the capacity values). Plus, I also read the review; the guy tested several models of such charge and not in one copy. He tested a couple of models at 10pcs. And the readings differed more than 10%, I don’t remember exactly (between the copies), and the reality didn’t correspond, that is, they lied. And where is the confidence that you got a less decent copy. So they can be used as an indicator and there is no reason to talk about any accuracy of the readings. As for me, I can trust the J7-T tester more or less (I know the battery status in my smarts approximately and I am about it. At the same time, I had 4 different testers for the first time and I chose J7-T. Later a model with Oled appeared indicator, but she did not solve anything, except for the brilliance. And only recently some interesting models appeared.
I will not say anything about the RD UM34C + HD35 kit, an interesting solution to the mid-price range.
Recently I paid attention to a couple of interesting models, as for me:
J7-C (DC) with BluetoothandRD AT34, bundled with a load HD35 look very dignified.
Their dignity include:
1. support fast charging and with almost all protocols: heap, samsung, mtc and even huyavay. Who does not know, I will say that the flagships of huavei fast charging is not done by increasing the voltage, but by the current, there is a 5Vx4.5A mode, and now they implement 45W charging at all (they have already increased both current and voltage).
2. Both charges support USB pass-through, i.e. they can be used in OTG mode as a signal, they support both USB 2.0 and USB 3.1 protocols, i.e. You can use a flash drive or an external screw as a drive so you can simultaneously measure battery consumption by them.
3. If you connect a load instead, you can measure the capacity of the built-in battery for discharge.
4. When checking the cables measure the internal resistance.
Here are the main advantages.
For the time being, I chose J7-C, why is it, firstly I have smartphones and micro usb and type C, i.e. will not have to use adapters. Secondly, bluetooth, there are only 2 memory cells on the testers themselves, and with bluetooth, you can save a battery database on a smart (with a single measurement of accuracy you can’t reach it).
That's where it is. Happy New Year and success and good luck.

Post has been editedkvidkus79 - 03.01.19, 00:06