Repair of your apartment. | HELP.

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Ask us, can we, with COLLEAGUES, be up to date and
we can help you

Please provide as much additional information as possible.
and who will do the repairs, you or the workers, so that we can understand!

: superman:: superman:: superman:

Yorick 37,

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Also "in topic": Smart home and communication systems : friends:

Since our site is already"not only the PDA" , I had an idea to create such a topic. I have 20 years of experience in repairing apartments. I know what a difficult and difficult decision is to start making repairs. What problems and difficulties await along this path? In general, I will try to answer your questions, related to this topic. And maybe not only am I alone. This is not advertising, but perhaps independent advice or opinion . Ask, what we can-help.: yes:

Post has been editedcarlsson77 - 17.01.18, 20:37
Reason for editing: relevance added

Rep: (40)
ordered a kitchen today.
assembly costs 10,000 rubles.
I decided to save. And now, I think, can I assemble it myself or is it better not to save it?
(what pitfalls there can be during assembly)

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Lope is the kitchen? :)

Rep: (40)
65 000rub amber furniture - factory.

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Furniture, of course not on order, but:
The assembly is given a guarantee and a document! You can kanesh yourself, but long and dreary, I would not risk it. It is better to pay, BUT CHECK THE ASSEMBLY DETAILS!
: victory:

Posted on 1/31/2009, 23:36:

Will it only be assembled or installed too? :)

Rep: (40)
assembly of 8%, installation of 6%, total 14%. 9100rub in total + additional cost for the installation of built-in equipment.
I think they will divorce me for 12,000 :)

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big kitchen? features? angular, length, gadgets?

Rep: (40)
the kitchen is angular (the angle is straight, not oblique), of the features - while I smoked there was one feature, thanks to my wife.
the lower boxes, like the upper ones, are almost white (light yellow).
And I wanted the lower ones under the tree - stripes thin brown with light yellow !!! I already bought vodka to forgive her for this sin.
Now our kitchen will be like in a hospital all white !!!!
Meter 3.20 + 1.60 = 4.80

Here is the photo I wanted (from their exhibition hall, pay attention to the lower and upper drawers):

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Post has been editedrelo_fx - 01.02.09, 00:36

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honestly, I've been collecting furniture myself, nothing complicated, I did it slowly in one day.

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Maratj @ 1.2.2009, 0:43*
honestly, I've been collecting furniture myself, nothing complicated, I did it slowly in one day.

I would also collect, but here's how, that's another question! Self-assembly is a risk of losing certain guarantees for the goods, I would go for it consciously!
If arelo_fx ready for it, for God's sake! : victory:
my recommendation is to pay for assembly and installation, that's it! : friends:

Rep: (1407)
I personally assembled all the furniture for myself ... I could strain the company representatives, it’s free here, but I did it myself, like a hobby. But I also had the most expensive furniture 30 ty, not 65 ... I would have assembled it myself.

Rep: (229)
Something I completely lost this Temko.
I collected myself a dressing room-closet (I ordered only a cut of chipboard). A toad strangled, to give a bunch of dibs for that ugliness on the wallpaper that was offered.
For beginners, those who want to furnish their apartment on their own , I advise you to search the network for a Lappo disk
(I saw it on a ru-board, partly clumsy, but the info is systematized and stated quite accessible).
I advise:
You can draw the furniture itself (and the design of the room, with the arrangement of furniture) in the PRO100 program (warez in the network).
Do it yourself cutting chipboard program: Cutting 3 (warez in the network).
The finished drawings of furniture are fullhere

Post has been editedbiulder - 03.03.09, 20:51

Rep: (1700)
Colleagues, I have this problem. We bought a horizontal bar for a son. Put in the opening. Horizontal bar - a pipe in which on the ends of the boss lugs that go into the corresponding holes on the mounting plates. Each plate is fastened with two screws to the wall, then we increase the horizontal bar with a wrench in length until the lugs enter the holes.
So, on the one hand, I have a normal concrete wall, and on the other, gypsum. I am afraid that I might go. What do you advise?
My ideas: make an oversized plate with more screws to carry the load, or go through the wall and use bolts instead of screws and dowels, or impregnate the holes in the gypsum with epoxy. It is clear that the mount is loaded only on shear, and not on the gap.

Post has been editedslimest - 10.03.09, 00:02

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Please specify what your "plaster" is.
1. GKL (drywall) partition (or cladding (wall covering GKL-ohm) - on a metal frame or beam.
2. An old plaster plaster partition reinforced with shingles on a timber frame.
or something else.

If we are talking about GCR. If a large load is expected:
1. Under the GKL layer on the metal frame, plywood sheets.
2. Sew two layers of GCR.
3. Increase the pitch of the racks.
Again, what is “gypsum” from you.

A simple nail in GKL holds a load of 5 kg (one layer), 10 kg (two layers), 15 kg (three layers)
Simple plastic expandable dowel: for facing from 20 mm - 20 kg.
Plastic dowel for hollow structures ("butterfly") with a cladding thickness of 12.5 (standard GKL sheet) - 20 kg, from 20 mm 30 kg
although the manufacturer writes 35 kg.
MOLLY metal threaded anchor for cladding from 12.5 - 30 kg, from 25 mm - 50 kg
(information from the Rigips Austria catalog, we often use Albes - there is a little more detail).

If GKL-ohm wall cladding is more efficiently attached to the cladding wall, the plate will also work better inside.
It all depends on the load on the horizontal bar and whether they will be wrung out on it, or twist the "sun" (unlikely in the opening).
If the son weighs 30-40 kg, this is one, an adult from 65 to ...... this is another.

The plate (wider) can be put on anchor bolts (frame dowels) if under the gypsum board (concrete slab, panel)
The load will shift down if one layer of GCR and the frame is weak, the plate will mix down to squeeze GCR.

In general, you need to look at the place of what and how;)

Catalog Albes Moscow 1999
page 25
3.4 Attaching attachments and various objects to partitions.

Post has been editedbiulder - 10.03.09, 16:04

Rep: (1700)
1. It seems that there is plaster on the outside, and some wooden fragments inside. It does not seem to be like drywall.
2. Perhaps this is the option. When you drill, the drill does not fail, but sometimes the tree catches in the depths. That is, there is no pronounced emptiness inside the wall. Wall thickness approximately 180 - 200 mm.

I understand that anchor bolts are better. Your advice about them is already the second :)
The son will certainly not spin the sun, there is simply no place. Just pull up.
Biulder @ 10.3.2009, 15:14*
The plate (wider) can be put on anchor bolts (frame dowel)

I guess I'll do it. Thanks for the tips.

Rep: (551)
Grandfather IMHO metal plates are wider and not anchor, but with THROUGH bolts to pull off the two plates. Epoxy will not do anything. Take into account two points: 1) Your horizontal bar is a ready-made screw jack. You can squeeze out a wall :-( 2) The loads on the horizontal bar are not static, but dynamic (shocks, jerking) ... If there is no other place - the metal plates are wider and tighten with bolts.

Rep: (229)
Judging by the description of the wall, this is not about GCR.
These are old plaster partitions reinforced with wood (I came across different designs).
If so, then it will be enough to screw the plate onto wood screws (wide thread pitch, preferably a larger diameter somewhere around 5mm and a length of 90-110).
The frame dowel is good for concrete or brick.

Post has been editedbiulder - 10.03.09, 21:21

Rep: (1407)
Colleagues, who can help with design? I have a studio apartment right now, I’m thinking how to distinguish a kitchen area ... I understand that it’s kind of like lighting, but I don’t think like that ... I need information to give me some advice . Do not advise contacting the designer, finances sang romances and died prematurely. Forever and ever.

Rep: (229)
It’s easier to distinguish with flooring, finishing materials for walls or ceilings.
Let's put a tile on the floor of the kitchen zone, round the tile and the border of the zone by making a transition to laminate or linoleum.
Or a suspended ceiling (any) to drive away.
Select the walls with tiles with the transition to wallpaper, there can be many options.

Rep: (1407)
Biulder @ 10.3.2009, 21:31*
tile and zone borderround making the transition to laminate or linoleum.

and how is this done? I saw this, but I did not understand what the joint was made between the laminate and tile ...

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The theme came to life, yo mai! : good:

Posted on 03/10/2009, 9:38 PM:

and how is this done? I saw this, but I did not understand what the joint was made between the laminate and tile ...

Thresholds are bending aluminum, special! :)

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