REPLACING DIODE
Everything that you do with your projector, you do at your own peril and risk.
To replace the diode, I purchased:
1. The diode CREE CMA2550-0000-000N0U0A57G itself. Personally, I bought directly in the US in the store
Arrow.com.
I ordered through
New mail. Registered on the NP website. When buying on "
arrow "indicated the address of the US NP warehouse as the delivery address.
Delivery from the US is $ 4.9, and the diode itself is $ 16. I bought 2 pieces, so it turned out $ 2.5 cheaper.
For residents of the Russian Federation, as far as I understand from the topic, there is the opportunity to buy a diode on
"Chip & Dip" 2. Boost converter for 36V. For myself, I chose a DC-DC Boost Converter 250W 10A.
Input Voltage: 8.5V-48V
Output voltage: 10-50V
Maximum input current: 10A
Maximum Output Current: 10A
With a current at input 8A or at output 6A, the converter should be installed on the radiator.
I bought on
prom.ua 3. Notebook power supply 19V 4.74A 90W I chose this PSU only for the reason that I had it :)
In your case, you can purchase any other.
When choosing a power supply, pay attention to the following parameters.
but). Power. The diode is powered by a voltage of 36-37V and a current of 2-3A (the main thing is to cool it). For the projector itself, you need another 20W. Those. PSU power should be at least 120-150W only for the diode. (in case you plan to power the system with one power supply). I used the PSU as an additional and the maximum current is 2.2A, i.e. 90W was enough for me, but I left the stock unit to power the projector.
b) Voltage. The higher the voltage of the PSU, the easier it is for the converter. For example, if the PSU is 12V, then when the voltage is increased to 36V (diode power) and the output current 3A, the input will be 9A. Those. It will require installation on an additional radiator, possibly with active cooling. In my case, with a diode voltage of 36V and a current of 2.2A, I get 19V and 4.2A at the input of the converter. The converter heats up, but not critical. In the future I plan to replace the PSU with 24 volt and buy an additional step-down converter to power the projector from 12V from it. Thus, I will reduce the current on the boost converter to 3.3A, and therefore reduce its heating.
4. Cooler 50x50 or 60x60 maximum. Better than 50x50, as this size is enough for installation on the radiator hole.
I took myself 60x60x25 AFC0612D, but I do not recommend it to anyone. This is a server cooler. Noise from work is strong (50dB).
I will put the speed controller on KTshke, but it's all in the plans for the future.
Those. When buying, pay attention to speed and noise. For example, our "snail" noise at 35dB.
In general, the cooler is "ideally" 25-28dB.
5. Switch to turn on / off the diode. Due to the lack of circuitry, our projector did not conduct experiments directly on the board.
When connecting the step-up converter to the power contacts of the stock diode, the latter "starts up" when the projector is energized, so it was decided to power the diode from a separate PSU and put a button to turn on the diode after starting the coolers. I took KCD1-101
General expenses:
Diode: $ 18.5
Converter: $ 7
BP: $ 12
Cooler: $ 5
Switch: $ 0.5
Total: $ 43 Wiring diagram:
The button is prudently located at the output of the converter, since the current consumption of the converter when idle is about 50mA, but the diode, when connected directly to the converter, does not start. You must first start the converter so that the capacitors are "charged", and then start the diode.
The diode itself was mounted on the radiator using a PCB. I did not want to buy a sheet for the sake of two 5mm strips, because I cut 2 strips from the "unnecessary" board:
For the switch, I cut holes in the case, brought out the wires, soldered, pulled the heat shrink and clicked the switch
The converter itself is located behind the mirror, after removing the built-in speaker:
I completely cut out the grill in front of the radiator and set the cooler so that it threw air out, helping the "snail":
Without this cooler, there is a possibility of overheating of the matrix:
At the moment I do not want to risk the matrix. In a week or two, a pyrometer will come from China, then I will select the cooler speed and, possibly, I will take 50x50x15 or 50x50x20. And the size is smaller, and reducing speed and noise less.
The picture has become brighter, the colors are juicier, take my word for it :) The phone’s camera is not able to convey the quality of the resulting picture. Changing the brightness of the diode with my eyes, I see this, but the phone "adjusts" and the pictures look practically the same :) But one of the last
videoalready laid out.
A few days ago, a friend will bring the same projector for alteration (that's why I bought 2 diodes), then it will be possible to start 2 projectors at the same time and take comparative photos.
Post has been editedvisajack - 09.03.19, 14:43