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> LCD displays and monitors | [hand-made] [how-to] connection options, questions about hardware
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The second life of LCD displays and monitors | The second part of the cap


ATTENTION
Due to the fact that the forum is a completely voluntary matter, not a professional one, and this topic is relatively complex, EFFECTIVE REQUEST FOR BEGINNERS: first read the header so as not to ask questions in the subject that have answers here. If something is not clear - show perseverance and reread again, just take a closer look. I assure that 95% of the emerging issues HERE there are all the answers. The cap is constantly updated and supplemented. Therefore, I recommend that non-beginners sometimes look into it ...
About the topic
This topic is dictated by the presence of many "surplus" in the form of matrices (TFT displays) left over from laptop and netbooks, tablets and even from monitors and televisions. Therefore, in this topic will be collected developments on the options for their use. I don’t intend to duplicate various constructors from the Internet, since all of them are painted by people with different levels of radio engineering training from completely illiterate to “pro”. I would rather do as a teacher - first I will teach so that later they would ask me for my flaws. And this topic is open to pay attention to the various technical details that accompany the process. I also want to warn you - the topic is very difficult and requires a lot of attention and careful approach to the implementation of its projects. Those. "nahrapom" at best, you can not achieve anything, and at worst - also break the wood ..
Before we immediately proceed to specific schemes and examples, it is necessary to have an idea about everything that accompanies this, and only then draw conclusions about the possibility of implementing this or that project, so let’s consider the technical aspects.
Main point
So, the key concept is the display controller. It is called “controller”, and not “scaler”, as is customary in the common people. Scaler (from the word Scale - scale, scale) - this is one of the components of the functional scheme of the controller, which is responsible for scaling the image. The controller is exactly that "piece of hardware" that is engaged in the conversion of various interfaces (HDMI, VGA, CVBS, RGBs) into signals "understandable" to the matrix. In the overwhelming majority (almost 90% of the entire market), the controllers are focused on connecting matrices with an LVDS interface. In order to connect the matrix to the controller, it is necessary to make sure that the controller supports this matrix, as well as to observe a whole list of conditions that this controller must also satisfy and that it still has to be hung on it. The controller itself is actually a “workpiece”, which the firmware manages. And from that, how much it approaches a concrete matrix, all success of the enterprise depends.
How everything should look as an assembly is easier to portray in the picture:
Attached Image
This is the most common scheme for the assembly of such a "venture." There is nothing scarce and super-expensive. According to this scheme, matrixes are connected from all monitors and matrixes with lamp illumination from laptops. If we are talking about the launch of matrices with LED backlighting, the scheme will be slightly modified:
Attached Image
The differences are not global, but otherwise both of the above designs, with the condition of serviceable parts, have a guaranteed 100% repeatability.
Of course, I am talking about affordable hardware, which is made in China specifically for home-made designs. On the one hand, this is good - basically all Chinese controllers are designed for the maximum coverage of the available matrices. But it is necessary to note the fact that not all 100% of the existing matrices can thus be embodied in the project. This means that there are a number of matrices that cannot be called universal, interchangeable, etc. There are also quite unusual loners, but it is good that there are not so many of them. We are talking about matrices with rarely encountered interfaces, which can be “difficult” to raise, and sometimes impossible. The matrices with purely individual temporal characteristics, which were laid in tablets or netbooks (where these matrices were in the first life), can also be safely attributed to the same difficult to engraft. Not every controller is able to provide these characteristics, since in the overwhelming majority of the firmware they are still designed for some "averaged" and unified parameters. The controllers that HYPOTHETICALLY could correctly earn with such matrices are those with a “TV” on board (they will be lower under the spoiler). Those. those in the settings of which there is the LVDS map item, in which there is at least some possibility of choosing from 16 preset settings.

BEFORE BEGINING THE PROJECT
1. You need to stock up documentation on your matrix - without it, the success of the event is nearing zero. What I mean. Matrix documentation is a file in .pdf format that accompanies the release of the matrix itself. Correctly called Datasheet. Everything is written in it: from the electrical and optical parameters of the panel itself and the parameters of the backlight to the geometrical and installation dimensions. There is also MANDATORY data on its interface and its connection scheme. A person without experience without it to connect the matrix will be very problematic. Datashets are overwhelmingly in English, very rarely, but come across in Chinese or Korean. Therefore, do not expect that it will be in Russian - no one ever translates these things. Datashits are searched on the Internet through a search engine by the tag "[matrix name] .pdf". Recruit and search. I want to note that the site panelook.com (it is the first to be found in the search for any matrix) is just a worldwide “reference book” and does not distribute datasheets for nothing, just for money. So do not expect it in the search. You can try to look intolibrarysite beyondinfinite. There is certainly no paneluk, but a lot of everything is distributed free of charge. However, it often happens that the documentation for the matrix is ​​not located - it is not the fault of the forum users and not mine, but the manufacturer of the matrix. If you encounter a similar situation, try searching for a matrix with the same name (or a very similar name), but with a different revision or other suffixes - this helps in 95% of cases. Also in this case, the search for compatible models of matrices helps - for example, see the websites for the sale and maybe compatible part numbers will be listed there. Show logic and ingenuity.
2. Which controller is the best - you decide for yourself, because this is primarily a matter of taste and technical requirements that you set.
3. Before buying something, you need to decide according to paragraph 2 which controller is best for you, and then it is MANDATORY to view the firmware archive available for it to determine if there is a firmware that matches your matrix. If there is no suitable one, no one will write it to you, I guarantee it to you. Whether the firmware is suitable or not, it will become clear to you after reading the entire material.
What matrices fall under the possible implementation:
- The vast majority of matrices from monitors, laptops, tablets and TVs. If we expand a little on what has been said - matrices with LVDS, TTL and RSDS interfaces.
- matrices with eDP interface (from laptops of the middle and upper price segment). However, such a project will be released 1.5-2 times more expensive than with "ordinary" matrices.
- matrices with MIPI interface (these are rather high-quality matrices from some tablets). It is quite possible to raise such a matrix, controllers with a MIPI interface exist, only their cost in China is around $ 180-200. Who wants to - buy and do ...
What matrices conditionally fall under the possible implementation:
- matrices from oldportableChinese DVD players, televisions, as well as a large number of photo frames. These are the so-called "analog" (more correctly RGB) matrices of very low resolution, often with lamp lighting. More I stayed on themhere. In this topic, it makes no sense to consider them because of the almost complete absence of universal controllers for them, the lack of firmware (if there is something else) and, as a rule, it is impossible to recognize the matrices themselves to find out their parameters, because the overwhelming majority of them are noname.
What matrices do not fall under the possible implementation:
- matrices with the LVDS interface with a “portrait” resolution (this is when the technical characteristics indicate that the number of pixels horizontally is less than vertical, for example 600 * 1024, 800 * 1280 - check on the website panelook.com for the matrix name - everything is there write "correctly"). Why I drew attention to the type of interface - because the matrices with the MIPI interface, unlike the matrices with the LVDS interface, on the contrary, are overwhelmingly portrait, and for the "rotation" of the image by 90 degrees is the controller, which, of course, has much more intelligence, than the lvds controller. And in those tablets where the LVDS portrait matrices stood, the processor is responsible for the correct orientation of the picture.
- All matrices from phones (smartphones).
- matrices from cameras
- Matrix of plasma TVs. This is so clear from the title of the topic, but since questions arise from time to time, I mark it with a separate item. No iron for homemade for them does not even exist in nature.

As for large television matrices, since the abundance of combinations of technical solutions in them is an order of magnitude higher than that of monitor or notebook computers, the project with them must be approached very carefully. Why - it will become clear after a careful reading of this material to the end.
General concepts about matrices used in tablets, laptops and monitors
1. What do tablets have?
- Matrices come in three interfaces: LVDS, TTL and MIPI.
- The LVDS interface in tablet matrices is 1-channel and can be 6- and 8-bit (depending on the matrix).
- The backlight in the tablet matrix only LED. Depending on the type of matrix used, it can be outputted by a separate connection of a line of LEDs (then it is designed for a current of 100 ... 160 mA and is powered by a voltage of 8 ... 9V), and can be operated from the built-in backlight driver of the matrix. Then the driver is powered from a voltage of 3.3V and consumes a current of the order of 250 ... 350mA. Such a highlight in budget tablets is not found.
- The current consumption of the matrix panel itself for the 7 "matrix in white light is about 100mA. That is, at 3.3V supply voltages (in tablet matrices always), the panel consumes 0.33W of power.
- Matrices come with a widescreen resolution of 800 * 480, 1024 * 600, 1280 * 800, 1280 * 720, 1366 * 768 and "square" resolution of 800 * 600, 1024 * 768.
- Matrices are with "portrait" and "landscape" resolution. Ie, for example, there are 1280 * 800, and there are 800 * 1280. Technically, they are completely different and not interchangeable matrices.

2. What is in monitors.
- Matrices in monitors are in the vast majority of two interfaces: LVDS and RSDS. It is extremely rare, but still there are matrices with a TTL interface and even matrices with a VGA and DVI interface are noticed.
- The LVDS interface in the monitor matrix can be 1- and 2-channel. Single-channel LVDS is usually found in square matrices with a diagonal of 15 ", rarely 17". However, starting from 17 "and above, 2-channel ones are usually used. In premium monitors 23" ... 27 ", it happens 4-channel. The LVDS interface in monitors is always 8-bit. The exception is some very old monitors of a small diagonal (11 - 15 inches) - there are 6-bit matrixes and modern premium class monitors, in which even a 10-bit interface is noticed.
- The backlight in the monitor matrix is ​​CCFL (fluorescent, 2- and 4-lamp - Edge, less often, in large diagonals there can be 6-8 lamps - Direct) and LED (from 1 to 4 ... 8 groups of LEDs). That CCFL, that LED backlighting in monitors implies the use of a regular backlight driver. It is usually combined with the power supply of the monitor and is controlled from the mainboard. From the lane, it receives signals Enable (or BLON) (enable) and PWM (or DIM_B) (brightness control). Sometimes in older models there is DIM_A - analogue adjustment, when the brightness depends on the voltage level.
- Power consumption by the matrix panel from 1.5W (15 "square) to 4.5 ... 5W (22-23" widescreen). Matrix panels are powered by 3.3 or 5V, depending on the matrix model.
- Matrices come with a widescreen resolution of 1366 * 768, 1440 * 900, 1600 * 900, 1680 * 1050, 1920 * 1080, 1920 * 1200 and "square" resolution of 1024 * 768, 1280 * 1024, 1600 * 1200.
- Matrices are ONLY with "landscape" resolution.

3. What is in laptops.
- Matrices are "square", i.e. with a 4: 3 ratio (800 * 600 and 1024 * 768) and widescreen with a 16: 9 ratio (1024 * 600, 1280 * 720, 1366 * 768, 1600 * 900 and 1920 * 1080) and 16:10 (1280 * 800 , 1440 * 900 and 1920 * 1200)
- The backlight can be fluorescent (one linear or L-shaped lamp) and LED (one LED strip consisting of several groups of LEDs). For CCFL backlight driver is used, which stood in this laptop. For matrices with CCFL backlight, notebook drivers are almost all interchangeable (electrically, not constructive!). For LED illumination in scaffolds, a driver is used which is already built into the matrix, and its control and power contacts are brought out to the matrix interface connector. LED arrays without a built-in backlight driver are extremely rare in laptops.
- The interface in notebook matrices can be either LVDS or eDP (for high resolution matrices, retina, yablochniki, etc.). The LVDS interface in low-resolution matrices is single-channel, it can be both 6-bit and 8-bit. In the high-resolution matrices can occur and dual. It is necessary to look at the documentation on the matrix.
Interface LVDS, concepts of bitness and channel
What is meant by "bit" and "channel". Let's try to chew what it is.
Bit rate
First of all, it should be noted that the LVDS interface is “intermediate” and not “final”. The final data supplied directly to the matrix panel are presented as so-called signals. TTL levels.
The depth (level) of each of the color components (RGB) in the TTL structure is represented by either 6 or 8 lines for each color. And since the signal on each line can be either high or low, each of these lines is a kind of carrier of 1 bit of information. Those. for the 8-bit representation of the "green" color in the TTL signal structure, the G0 ... G7 lines are used, for the "red" - R0 ... R7 and for the "blue" B0 ... B7. Accordingly, for the 6-bit representation, the RGB lines will be with indices 0 ... 5. In addition to the TTL color levels, of course, there are service lines with various sync signals. So, all these TTL signals are encrypted in LVDS signals and on the matrix side with the help of special microcircuits "extracted" from them. It should be noted that there are two standards for the arrangement of RGB signals in LVDS - VESA and JEIDA. Usually this is the lot of large matrices (from 20-22 "- there is a possibility of choosing a standard with a separate pin, sometimes even over 30-32" - always). In the small matrices (tablets, laptops, small monitors) there is no standard choice and they are designed for the VESA standard. For example, here is a picture from the datasheet on the matrix AT070TNA2 - it clearly shows how the TTL signals are packed in the LVDS interface in the VESA standard:
Attached Image
Those. in the overwhelming majority of matrix devices, they work according to the VESA standard. JEIDA, on the other hand, refers more to the concept of the "Japanese" school of circuit engineering.
The controller, in turn, "prepares" LVDS signals in its depths. At the very beginning of the development of LCD technology, TTL signals were present in any controller explicitly and then encoded in LVDS using specialized microcircuits. At the current level of chip integration, LVDS signals come out of the controller chip directly without additional processing.
This begs the question: why was all this done? It's simple: to reduce the number of connecting lines. After all, the 8-bit TTL interface contains about 30 lines, and the 8-bit LVDS is only 10. Well, there is a possibility, at the very least, to call the LVDS interface universal.
As many have probably already noticed, for example, that the controller doesn’t care what color bit to transmit to the matrix - it is set by the firmware, and its capacity is quite enough to produce the highest one. Therefore, the notion of bits refers rather to the capabilities of the matrix itself. It so happened that the small matrixes work with the color depth described by 6 or 8 bits per color, and the matrix 17 ... 22 inches in the vast majority of 8 bits per color. Therefore, in the firmware it is mentioned what it is, 6 or 8-bit. Sometimes the bit values ​​themselves are multiplied by the number of colors (3 - R, G, and B) and you can come across the concept of 18 or 24 bits - this classification is used in motherboards equipped with an LVDS output. Well, the most important thing that affects this is this is the maximum number of shades that the matrix can convey. 6-bit matrix - 262 thousand, 8-bit - 16.7 million. I hasten to reassure, and it is possible to surprise someone: if you put two matrices 6 and 8 bit side by side and submit the same picture to them, but prepared with the maximum hues content for each one personally, then it’s unlikely to see the differences with the naked eye. How many shades the human eye can recognize - so far the truth in disputes has not been found, but so far the version that 15 thousand wins.
To find out what kind of bits the matrix, just look at its Datasheet - everything is written there. But besides this can be determined by the LVDS interface. The LVDS interface itself is represented by a certain set of informational and clocking differential pairs. Informational differential pairs are denoted as RXn + and RXn-, where n is a digit (pair number) from 0 to 2 or 3. Thus, the 6-bit matrix interface has such a set of differential pairs:
RX0 (+/-), RX1 (+/-), RX2 (+/-), RXCLK (+/-)
and the 8-bit interface has another pair:
RX0 (+/-), RX1 (+/-), RX2 (+/-), RXCLK (+/-), RX3 (+/-)
This begs the question: "is it possible ...?"
I answer:
- if you send an 8-bit signal to a 6-bit matrix (i.e. leave the RX3 pair from the controller to hang in the air), then the matrix will show a brutal kaleidoscope of colors, but there will be no correct image. Externally, the picture looks like a color with a very low bit depth (for example, if you put in Windows the color depth is not 32, but for example 4 bits). This is explained by the fact that according to the above picture, part of the full picture does not reach the matrix (after all, the RX3 pair is not connected) - a part of the video information is accordingly lost.
- if you send a 6-bit signal to an 8-bit matrix, the picture will be correct, but too dark and no adjustments will be able to stretch the brightness and contrast to the desired level.
Some fine matrices can work with both 6- and 8-bit signals, and the bitness is selected by applying the appropriate level to a separate special output in the interface, which is designated as SELB or 6 / 8bit. However, as is well known eminent matrices have many clones. So often, even though the pin for selecting the bit rate is, but the matrix does not change its mode - the Chinese can save money on this ...
Often in the parameters of the color depth of the matrices can be found the concept of 6bit + Hi FRC. What is it - you can read on the wiki, but one thing is for sure - this is the optical parameter of the matrix panel, and not the possibility of its electronics. Such matrices are connected via an 8-bit interface.

Canal LVDS.
As mentioned above, the LVDS interface contains a certain set of information and one clocking differential pair. In the matrix of monitors and televisions to increase their bandwidth interface matrix make a two-channel. Those. the number of dif pairs is doubled and one more letter is added to their names RX:
O (Odd) - primary channel
E (Even) - the secondary channel
Then the pairs are called RXO0 +, RXOC +, RXO2-, etc. for primary and respectively RXE0 +, RXEC +, RXE2- (and so on) for the secondary. Those. it turns out that dual-channel 8-bit LVDS works in 10 pairs. Naturally, this is not about renaming pairs, but about a complete change of electronics and an algorithm for its operation. Therefore, one-channel and two-channel LVDS are not the same thing at all, and iron should produce exactly that signal on the matrix that it is designed hardwired for.
You can connect a single-channel matrix to a two-channel signal (and vice versa), nothing will burn. But nothing good will happen.

ATTENTION!!! Different matrix manufacturers often use their own internal labeling of LVDS channels, so do not panic, if you find in the matrix datasheet that LVDS pairs call differently. I give examples of such variations:
RXO = RXIN = RIN
RXOCLK = CLKIN = RCLK
sometimes "positive" (+) and "negative" (-) wires are labeled p (positive) and n (negative). Those. for example, RXIN0P means RXO_0 +.
it can be the replacement of numbers of pairs instead of numbers by letters, i.e. instead of "0", "1", "2" is found "A", "B", "C"
The most fanciful designations come across on the television matrices of large diagonals. For example, in the matrices LG-Philips there are notation of the type R1AN ... R1CN and R2AN ... R2CN, which means RXO_0- ... RXO_2- and RXE_0- ... RXE_2-. Synchro pairs are denoted R1CLKN / R1CLKP (RXCLK- / RXCLK +), etc.
I will separately dwell on television matrices with a diagonal of 32 inches and above.
All universal controllers are designed to use matrices with a refresh rate of 60 Hz. Usually these are 6 or 8-bit single or dual channel arrays. Many modern TV Full HD matrices often come with a 10-bit LVDS interface, and the LVDS interface can be 2-channel or 4-channel. It is clear that to connect such a matrix to universal controllers directly, of course, will not work. Separate copies of 2-channel arrays have the electrical ability to switch the LVDS interface between 8 and 10 bits - in this case there will not be any special connection problems - just switch the matrix to 8-bit mode. But the matrix, having a refresh rate of 120 Hz and a 4-channel 10-bit LVDS interface, simply won't work without a “special tool” with a universal controller because it is not designed for either 10 bits or 4 LVDS channels. What exactly I mean by "special means" - this will be in the second part of the "cap".
If anyone is interested in digging deeper into this theory - you can start exploringhere. And then you will figure out what to look for (who cares, of course ...).
The most common types of controllers
I repeat once again - we are talking about UNIVERSAL controllers for homemade products.
In China, a huge amount of them are produced and I cannot cover all the models. But among all the diversity there are several types with which success is more likely than with some rare and exotic (but still universal) controllers. First of all, I mean the availability of arrays of firmware and the presence of more or less intelligible manuals.

- controller on chip RTD2660H (or RTD2662) (software designated as PCB800099):
Attached Image

- a simplified version of the above controller, in which there is only an HDMI input (software designated as PCB800661):
Attached Image

There is another version of such a controller, only it differs in that instead of the LVDS pin connector it contains an FFC 50pin 0.5mm connector and is oriented mainly under the matrix with a TTL interface (the software is designated as PCB800168):
Attached Image

It should be noted that in these controllers, the sound from the stream of HDMI is not extracted.
Not so long ago, a modified first version appeared on the market - it has audio extraction from HDMI on board, audio input "from the side" (automatically connected in VGA and AV modes) and a class D amplifier (most likely with a power of about 2 * 3W) (software The software is labeled PCB800196):
Attached Image
True, the introduction of sound did not pass without a “loss” - the FFC 50 pin connector disappeared from the board and the amplifier settled in its place. Thus, the controller "lost" some clients with a TTL interface and now it can only be lifted through a special adapter, which stands almost like a controller itself.
However, since the park of TTL matrices has not gone anywhere, the variant for these matrices was released as in the previous case (the software, if I am not mistaken, is designated PCB800809):
Attached Image

All these controllers require firmware using the I2C bus and without the presence of a programmer, it will not be possible to flash it. The first of these controllers has firmware for almost every imaginable and unimaginable resolution of the matrices, the other two in the abundance of firmware are already greatly reduced. The latter (the one with sound) has just a spartan set of firmware approximately in the region of 20. Another moment. The controllers on the RTD2660H chip (RTD2662) for some reason do not favor the resolution of FullHD. According to the description, the chip itself is able to, but for some reason for this purpose it is used quite rarely. And the Chinese do not recommend it for this.

- a controller with only one VGA input and a jumper resolution selection for the desired matrix. The cheapest of all options. In addition, he does not need firmware. When choosing (there are several options), you must look at the list on the back of the board and the list of possible supply voltages of the matrix - there are options 3.3 / 5V and 3.3 / 5 / 12V. Another point - often on the boards of such controllers in the list of listed permissions, errors in the bit depth of some modes are made, as well as in the signature of the pinout of the LVDS comb, the lines of the LVDS are mixed up.
Attached Image
Attached Image
- controller with full sets of "computer" inputs. Chip Novatek NVT68676UFG. HDMI audio is decoded and output through the amplifier. When the VGA and DVI inputs are enabled, the sound from the external input is also switched to the built-in amplifier. Automatic input selection. It is also programmed via the I2C bus. The first time the firmware was released (in 2012) there were about 35, but in the second release (in 2015) they were released under 170 pcs. and they were practically under all existing permissions.
Attached Image
- new Chinese invention - controller with eDP output on RTD2556H chip:
Attached fileVS-RTD2556H-V1.pdf(207.08 KB)
There is little information on it, so I brought the documentation for the version with one HDMI input. There are also versions with one VGA input and three (HDMI, VGA, AV) inputs. But one thing can be said for certain - the prices for them are still quite democratic and, I hope, will remain the same. For example, a version with one HDMI input costs about 75 yuan in China. And this means that with all the postage costs this controller will result in a sum of 1,200 rubles (at the rate of the first half of 2017). By the way, now on Aliexpress, the ready version of the monitor controller (without sound):
Attached Image


- controllers with digital and analog inputs and with a TV tuner on board, stitched through a USB port. They can be divided into two groups:
for reception only analog terrestrial television
Attached Image

for receiving analogue and digital terrestrial television
Attached Image

All of them have quite good multimedia content using USB input with the exception of controllers on TSUM V29 chips.

Since the creation of this topic in the assortment of the Chinese industry, something fresh is constantly appearing, sometimes even replacing the old one. I basically listed them all. But the first detailed report on the successful launch of the universal controller on Android with digital television (it is not quite clear which one) on board providedFDS UA here. Information deserves attention, since many have long been concerned about the availability of such a controller. Meanwhile, the parallel topic about it is gaining momentum.here.

ATTENTION!!! I want to warn you that in all "television" controllers the HDMI input is purely multimedia and is designed to work with sources either HD Ready (720p) or FullHD (1080i). Those. if you expect to use it with a matrix other than 1366 * 768, 1280 * 720 and 1920 * 1080 and connect a computer via HDMI, then you may have problems. What is meant:
If (for example) a 1280 * 1024 matrix is ​​connected to the controller, then when applied to the HDMI inputFullHD and HD Ready signalseverything should work and the HORIZONTAL of the signal applied should turn into the HORIZONTAL of the matrix. Those. we feed the horizontal 1920 pixels and the controller outputs 1280 pixels to the matrix (from the example). What remains on the vertical is all proportional, i.e. there will be black bars at the top and bottom. For this process is responsible scaler (in the correct sense of the word) controller. But all this is true for video content. If we talk about connecting to the HDMI computer, then everything will not be so easy. After all, we (from the example) have a matrix of 1280 * 1024 and in order to get the most clear image, the signal from the computer must also be the same. In fact, the graphic adapter of the computer will not issue such a resolution WHEN CONNECTING THIS CONTROLLER. That's what I had in mind, calling the HDMI input "multimedia." To use the HDMI input of the controller with the computer, then without the "tambourines" will earn unless the matrix of 1920 * 1080 and 1366 * 768. For a designer assembled on matrices with a different resolution, at best, you will have to prepare the necessary resolution using the video card's capabilities, at worst (if the video card cannot do this - for example, Intel's GMA graphics) - stop using it as a computer one. You can find more detailed information on this issue in the second part of the header under the EDID spoiler.

If you look closely at the photographs of the devices, it is easy to see that all of them are united by the presence of a 2-row 2x15 pin connector with a 2mm pitch for the LVDS interface.In all the above-mentioned controllers, they are completely identical in size and pinout (well, except that some controllers may not have one pin from the power supply (1-3 pins) or masses (4-6 pins), which by the way does not matter.This is how its description looks in manuals for any universal controller:
Attached Image
However, many have not been able to understand this table, so I give a picture of how it looks in kind:
Attached Image
If the situation does not clear up after this either - take good advice: drop this case, it is not up to you.
ATTENTION!!!
For those who are not quite familiar with the concepts of the LVDS interface, I focus attention: above, under the spoiler, it was said that there are RX signal pairs in the matrix interface, and we see TX pairs in the controller interface. Literally, this means: RX (receive) - "receive", TX (transmit) - "transmit." Matrices are "receivers" of LVDS signals from controllers, which are essentially their "transmitters". Therefore, the outputs of the TX controller are connected directly to the corresponding inputs of the RX matrix. Those. TXO 0- with RXO 0-, TXO 0+ with RXO 0+, etc. It should be borne in mind.
One more thing. As it became clear from the previous spoiler, the matrices are of different channels and different bit depths. The controller connector is one and "stuffed" for maximum 8 bits 2 channels. But where and how to connect the matrix, in which the other bitness and one channel, will have to be shown "on the fingers", because ... There is no better to keep silent:
Attached Image
What bit size and which pins to display is the “work” of the firmware and this does not need to be clogged.
The same table will be mentioned in one more place - about the replacement of connectors. I recommend reading even to those who do not want to read ...
The backlight control connectors of all universal controllers are also completely similar, but on some (for example, Realtek RTD2662), there is no leg for adjusting the backlight brightness. Those. The algorithm for controlling the backlight brightness is simply not implemented. By the way, there are generally strange things - the NT68676-2A controller has a backlight brightness adjustment knob and all its circuits are unsoldered, but the adjustment itself is not implemented either in the interface or in the service menu.
Manuals on different TV controllers and firmware files are below the spoiler "Files for download." Therefore, do not ask each time in the topic about pinout connectors, firmware, etc. Take the trouble to find it yourself. You will succeed.

Yes, I would also like to focus on such a moment - all, buying the above controller, for some reason they forget that it needs something else. And if for a person who is confidently holding a soldering iron, this is not a problem, then for a newcomer - what else. These are buttons and a remote eye. The Chinese sell about such kits costing order.2$
Attached Image
For those who will independently produce a board with buttons, you will find "useful tips" under the spoiler.

Well, and, perhaps, still a brief note. For all matrices that are used (or used) in tablets and laptops there are no controllers that would ONLY have one low-frequency analog video input. So if someone has a desire to do a monitor for an analog video camera (for example, for an intercom), it will be necessary to consider controllers that have such a video input as a “appendage” to VGA or to any other digital one. For example, as in the first picture, or such a plan:
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Variants of the backlight in matrices
Now about one of the most difficult moments - about the backlight. Without going into the types of matrices, I will tell you about what kind of lighting happens in general and what it imposes its imprint on. To begin with, it should be clarified that the LCD matrix is ​​a kind of "sandwich", which includes several components:
- matrix frame at the bottom of which the reflector is located
- backlight system
- light diffusers (diffusers)
- LCD panel
The LCD panel itself is the most "valuable" in the matrix - an image is formed on it. However, the LCD panel is not a source of light - the image is formed ONLY by passing light through. And to see this image - and there is a backlight, which is placed exactly behind the LCD panel (glass matrix). By design, the backlight is:
- Edge is when there is a plexiglass fiber at the base (7-10 mm thick) and light sources shine at the end of this fiber. The light guide is embossed on the surface in the form of matte dots. These points are involved in the process of reflecting light from perpendicular light rays. Their intensity and diameter are carefully calculated and the density of their location depends precisely on the facets of which the light comes from, in order to cover the entire area of ​​the matrix as evenly as possible. At the same time, the light guide is also a substrate for the matrix glass.
Light diffusers (or diffusers) are located between the LCD panel and the light guide. Their purpose is to provide the most uniform illumination and its intensity over the entire area behind the LCD panel. They are a set of plastic sheets with a specially treated surface - there are both optically distorting and matte sheets.
- Direct - in this case there is no light guide, but the light source itself is located exactly behind the LCD panel. The light source in this case cannot be one - there are several of them, but there are not so many of them that they shine evenly over the entire area of ​​the matrix. For example, the lamps are located at some distance from each other and if no action is taken, then dark and light stripes will be visible on the image. If these are LEDs, then spots will be visible. In this connection, the diffusers in such an illumination are radically different from those used in EDGE. The first is a sheet of plexiglass (depending on the diagonal, its thickness is 2.5-4 mm). It performs two functions — support for the glass of the matrix (after all, the matrix’s “trough” is deep and the glass of the matrix rests only on it) and, in connection with a specially treated surface, optical smearing of spots from light sources. Then there is also a layer of diffusers and then it is covered with a glass matrix.
Diffusers usually have the number of plastic sheets 3-4, but it should be noted that only all together, COMPLEX IN CERTAIN ORDER (!!!), they provide a uniform illumination of the entire area of ​​the matrix. Therefore, in the case of opening the matrix (for any manipulations, for example, for repairing or replacing the backlight), measures should be taken to ensure that these sheets lie in the same sequence and the same side (each !!!).
By the type of light source used, the backlight is CCFL (fluorescent) and LED (LED).
CCFL.
In the matrices of monitors, laptops and old tablets, only Edge backlighting is used.
In matrices less than 9 inches, L-shaped lamps were used, which were located along one long and one short side of the matrix. In the matrix of more than 9 - 10 inches used straight lamps. The lamp is located along one long side from the bottom. Very rarely, in the notebook matrices of exclusive models, a two-lamp design was used, while in order to preserve the small matrix thickness, the lamps were positioned side by side, but one after the other (towards the fiber end).
In the matrix of monitors used two-or four-lamp design. The lamps were arranged one by one or in pairs along two long sides of the matrix (above and below). As usual, there are rare exceptions: for example, in some monitors with a diagonal of 20 "there is a matrix CLAA201WA03 with a 6-lamp Edge CCFL backlight - along each of the long sides there are already 3 lamps in it. In the large diagonal monitors (above 24") and TVs used multi-bulb Direct backlight from straight or U-shaped lamps. These matrices (understandably) were very thick.
LED
In the matrices of tablets, netbooks, laptops, monitors and TVs up to 55-58 inches, Edge backlight is used in the form of a single strip of LEDs along the bottom edge (in the case of large-diagonal television matrices, it can also be seen from the side). The LEDs are arranged in one line closely to each other, but at the same time their switching circuit can have the most diverse configuration. It all depends on how many LEDs are combined into a group (called a string, the LEDs are connected in series) and how many such groups (number of strings) in this band. The total number of LEDs in such a band varies from 20-25 in small diagonals to a hundred in large ones.
A number of television matrices of diagonals of 28 "and more are made with Direct backlighting. The strings (they really are different than the backlight in Edge — several LEDs on separate strips) are located behind the matrix and there are several of them. The LEDs used there are completely different from those used in the backlight Edge - they are much more powerful, with wide-angle light scattering and are set not even close, but at a considerable distance (relative to their linear dimensions) from each other. The total number compared to the Edge backlight ovsem small - around 20-50 units (also depends on the diagonal).

For what I wrote all this.
The fact is that the output of the backlight control on the controller is represented by 4 contacts:
+ 12V
Enable (enable the backlight level + 3.3V in many controllers, but in television - + 5V)
Adjustment (backlight brightness control, analog output - controlled by some voltage level. In most controllers from 0 to + 3.3V, in television V29-V59 - from 0 to + 5V, in television controller z.vst3463 - made according to the scheme "open collector")
GND
Looking at this list, it is difficult to imagine how to turn on lamps or LED strips in this socket. In the matrices with LED backlighting from tablets (not budget) or laptops, the backlight driver is already built into the electronics of the matrix and there are contacts in the interface for controlling the backlight - they connect without any appendages to this connector (the above mentioned lighting design in these matrices is mentioned it was about the design of the light elements of the backlight, and not about the built-in driver). And what about the lamps? Or with strings, which need 4-6 lines with a voltage of 30, 50 or 85 volts, and with current stabilization, and even the required power? So in order for such a matrix to light up, it is necessary to apply a backlight driver.
For matrices with CCFL backlighting, there are universal drivers for 1, 2 or 4 lamps.
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Those. You can find out how many lamps are in the matrix (this can be seen even by the number of connectors leaving it), buy a suitable driver (they are quite inexpensive) and connect it directly to the backlight control connector of the controller. The cord that comes with it in the kit, just for this purpose and intended. Such a driver is worth about 4-5 dollars, look for ibei or aliexpress by tagCCFL backlight inverter.
However, sometimes the condition of the matrix lamp leaves much to be desired. As a rule, the lamps in the notebook matrices have already sat down for a long time. There is a way out - you can change the lamp illumination to LED, universal kits for which the Chinese also sell. Just decide which one to take. For notebook (thin) matrices, you need to take a kit with a 2mm wide strip. For matrices from monitors you need to take strips 4mm wide. Depending on how many sides of the lamp were located, you should choose a set with one or two LED strips.
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I want to note the fact that the design of the backlight Edge involves a corresponding replacement. Those. if the lamp was only on one side, then the LED illumination should be chosen with one strip and put it ON THE SAME SIDE. If the backlight was from two faces (no matter how many lamps — one or two on each face), then accordingly a LED backlight should be placed on both these faces. It is extremely not recommended to put on only one side (for example, in order to save). Optical fibers used in single-tube illumination are very different from those used in illumination systems from two faces.
Another rather important point: in the "chandelier" (let's call it the U-shaped holder for the lamp), ONLY ONE LED STRIP is put, no matter how many lamps it had !!! Exactly. Do not try to replace each lamp with a separate strip - except for construction hemorrhoids, you will not achieve anything with it. Explain why. Firstly, the width of the “chandelier” is about 7 mm (equal to the thickness of the light guide), and due to the design-technological and optical features, the bottom of this “chandelier” has a smooth surface, usually 5-6 mm wide. The replacement strip has a width of 3.5-4mm and two lanes will not be correctly installed (and the light from the LEDs should fall on the end surface of the fiber at a right angle). Two lanes near except at an angle will not fall. For clarity, here is a picture of what was said:
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Secondly, when the strip falls in the middle of the “chandelier”, the light falls exactly in the middle of the fiber thickness. If you shift the strip closer to the edge on which the glass of the matrix lies, then through the matrix you will clearly see the bright spots from each LED. Third, the power consumption. I speak with reference to matrixes from monitors. On average, fluorescent lighting of 4 lamps, depending on the diagonal, consumes about 30-40W. By installing one band at a time, you will get a consumption of 15-20W, and if you set two bands at a time, the power gain will be zero. In addition, LEDs, unlike lamps, still significantly heat up. Two lanes in the chandelier will mercilessly warm the fiber and the matrix, because they will simply have no place to take heat away. One lane confidently lays on a smooth bottom, which carries out heat removal. Fourthly - an extra driver ... Why? Well, the last argument, which I suppose, should close this issue forever: the brightness of one LED strip is several times higher than the brightness of a pair of lamps, it is very difficult to look at it because of blinding. Lamps this did not differ.
The length of the LED strips can be chosen for a specific size, and if not, you can take a little more. Due to the fact that these kits are universal and LEDsunitedin groups of 3pcs, then these groups can be cut off. The length of such a "piece" is about 16mm. Those. for a matrix such as 15.4 inches, you can safely take strips for 17 inches and cut off the excess multiple of 3 LEDs. Tag for search on ebay or aliexpress -LED backlight strip kit. The driver that comes with these kits is also designed to connect to the controller directly. A little more about the driver and this backlighthere.
I also want to dwell on one moment. Many unknowingly (and perhaps because of savings) are trying to plan to put interior LED strips in the end lighting (60 LEDs per meter on a sticky basis). I want to warn you that they are absolutely not suitable for this purpose !!! Do not try to deceive yourself - except for empty work you will not get anything good from this undertaking. Firstly, you will get clearly defined light spots and cannot overcome this with any constructive tricks. The reason is simple - the distances between the LEDs on such a tape are equal to the size of two LEDs. And secondly, these tapes are not designed to give the desired shade (cool white mixed with pink / purple) to obtain the correct color gamut of the matrix.
Lamps in designs with Direct CCFL backlighting can not be so easily powered. Only one way is possible - to use the regular driver for the backlight, which came with this matrix in the apparatus where it stood. There is another cardinal way that is described.here. One of the ways of such an embodiment, I explained a littlehere, and an example of such an embodiment (from myself) -here.

For matrices with LED backlighting (with the exception of matrices from laptops and expensive tablets), the situation is a bit worse - without a regular driver, it will be quite difficult to “raise” the backlight. Those. either look for the backlight driver specifically for this matrix, or also buy a universal one in China. True, it is structurally made of course worse than the native - for that he is “universal”. The fact is that the “native” driver issues (for example, if the matrix of 4 strings is highlighted in the backlight) - four stabilized channels for the strings, and the Chinese usually provides for their parallel inclusion. It will work, but it is still not entirely correct.
There is one more way - to replace the backlight with a universal LED, which I mentioned above, but this is still necessary only in extreme cases, for example, if the LED backlight in the matrix is ​​partially faulty (by the way, this is quite common).

A more detailed description of the control signals for the inverters and backlight drivers is located below the spoiler on the power of the controllers.
Power controllers in questions and answers, backlight control
So, here we will talk about one of the most difficult moments - the power supply of universal controllers from the "native" power supplies of future designs. One clarification is about the power of universal television controllers, since things are much easier with monitor controllers. But even if it becomes necessary to resolve the issue of nutrition and those, then after reading this material, I think everything will be clear and all questions will disappear. Let's try to cover all occasions.
Before proceeding to specific examples, it is necessary to understand how the internal supply circuits of the controller are arranged and it will depend on whether this is a simple task or very heavy.
Here is a block diagram of the power supply circuits of any of the V29-V59 universal TV controllers:
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As you can see, there are two voltage converters in the controller - the first on the DC-DC buck converter (+ 12 / + 5) and the second on the linear regulator (+ 5 / + 3.3). I have a DC-DC converter ZTP7193i on the V59 board. The linear stabilizer chip is some kind of noname, but initially - it’s still a brainchild of Linear Technology LT1084 (if you are interested, you can search for the datasheet just for it). Here is where these nodes are located on the board (example on V59, but also on V29, V56 is about the same):
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The power supply circuits of the z.vst3463 controller are slightly different and look like this:
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and here is where these nodes are on the board itself:
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In this controller, the power supply of 3.3V is somewhat different: instead of one powerful linear LT1084 stabilizer, the low-power AMS1117 is used to power the controller chip, and the power supply of 3.3V to the matrix is ​​removed from the 5-volt source and reduced due to the voltage drop on the transitions of two diodes in direct power on. Also introduced node power off controller nodes + 5V. For example, now the USB connector, power amplifier and backlight control circuits in sleep mode are de-energized.
ATTENTION!!! Before you run your design on this controller, I STRONGLY recommend that you look under the spoiler of "good advice" and carefully read the power-up item highlighted in red.The same applies to the designs on the 3663 controller.

As can be seen from the diagrams, the controllers can be safely powered not only from + 12V, but also from + 5V. Of course, provided that we do not need + 12V (for example, to power the matrix and (or) the backlight inverter). But even if it is needed, both of these power supplies can be spread and below I will give an example of how.
There is an opinion that it is possible to apply + 5V to the + 12V connector and not to think much. Before doing this, I would advise to think, nevertheless, and here's why. I quote the DC-DC converter circuit (a piece of datasheet and do not pay attention to the indicated voltages):
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Arrows, I showed the passage of current through the chip. It is the passage, not the conversion (which is generally the main task of this chip). But the internal circuit of this chip:
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So this is how the internal key works when the microchip is not in the mode - this is the question. In a word, whoever decides on this is only at your own peril and risk. I am personally not sure about the long-term use of the chip in this state. But even when she takes off, it's okay too - you can drop it off and serve + 5V directly - you can decide that already.

Another, in my opinion, very important point: the power supply must be obviously serviceable. I think comments are unnecessary here, since it is not difficult to guess what the launch of a controller with a faulty power supply will result in. It can be checked offline (of course with the backlight connected). To do this, you need several automotive light bulbs that are not powerful, for example, from dimensions, and then you need to connect loads and simulate switching. How? Read below - and it will become clear. Well, for examplethistopic to help.

I think, before moving on to the realization of connection diagrams, one should rather chew one rather important point: the difference between the power supplies of monitors and TVs.
In the vast majority of monitors, the power supply is always in active mode when the power cord is plugged into the network. Those. The sleep mode of monitors applies only to the controller and the backlight, but not to the power supply - it is always in operation. The wake-up signal in monitors serves only to turn on the backlight - i.e. only one bus (BLON, BKLT, INV_ON, BKLT_EN, BL_EN and similar abbreviations), which starts the backlight inverter (driver). I summarize what has been said: the monitor's power supply is always in working condition, and the on / off of the monitor is the result of the state of the backlight circuit (it works / does not work respectively) and this circuit is controlled by only one bus. The exception is made for large monitors with CCFL backlighting - they are more like BPU TVs.
PSU TVs are significantly different from BP monitors. The fact is that with respect to monitors, the difference in power consumption between the standby mode and the worker is small — for example, 3W and 40W, respectively. Those. The 40-watt power supply unit in standby mode is quietly idling and this does not go beyond its normal operation. In TVs (for example, with lamp lighting), consumption in standby mode is also 3-5W, and in working mode - up to 180W (42 inches). It is clear that making such a powerful source at idle is technically difficult - it simply will not give up normal voltages and currents for standby. In such a power supply unit, there is a separate low-power power supply for the standby mode (its output is called on the boards as Vstb, Vsb), and the main (powerful) power supply is switched on via a separate bus. On the PSU boards, this bus is designated as ON_OFF (sometimes N_F), S / B and something like that. I repeat - this signal ONLY turns on a powerful power source from which the backlight inverter, matrix power supply circuits, sound power amplifier, etc. are powered. At the same time, this signal is NOT RESPONSIBLE for turning on the backlight. For its inclusion answers a completely different signal. It is denoted in the same way as I called the paragraph above. What is it done for. If you look at the time diagram, the backlight turns on after all the processes related to the power supply to all nodes of the TV have passed. This eliminates the contemplation on the screen of these same processes. So, to summarize what has been said: the TV set’s “on duty” is supplied by one source, while the TV’s operation is ensured by another. It turns on, in contrast to the monitor's PDU with two control signals - one includes a powerful power supply unit, the second - a backlight. I hope explained intelligibly.

We now turn directly to the discussion of wiring diagrams.

1. CONNECTION TO BP MONITORS

Excuse my friends, but without theory in any way. Otherwise, everything will turn into a stupid copying schemes and then unnecessary questions. So try to learn what I'm trying to convey.
To begin with, the familiar scheme from the first spoiler, but with minor amendments, what we should have in the end:
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The question may arise: why do you need to do this? The fact is that if a monitor is subject to alteration, it is not difficult to guess that its native power supply is already designed for the operation of its matrix and for ensuring the work of its illumination. There is nothing to be wise with external adapters, there is no need to re-buy individual inverters, and you don’t even need to redo the monitor's design - everything is ready only to replace one controller with another, that's all.
Power supply monitors are usually built ("built" if we are talking about monitors with CCFL backlight) according to the source for two voltages - + 5V and also "some sort". Why "what is"? Yes, because it can be from 13 to 22V - it all depends on what kind of supply voltage the lamp or LED backlight inverter is based on. Besides, it’s not a fact that this second voltage goes to the controller - more often it has nothing to do there. The controller is usually powered by + 5V, and the matrix - either from + 5V or from + 3.3V. In the latter case, the stabilizer + 3.3V can be either on the controller board or on the power supply board, but this does not change the essence - the same + 5V are primary for it. But this is not the main thing. The source + 5V is firstly high current, i.e. It can produce a current of up to 2.5-3A, and secondly, it is the only one on the power supply that provides feedback to stabilize the voltage. And if it remains unloaded, then the probability of producing an unstable voltage at the power source of the inverter is high. Those. without a load on a 5-volt source, the voltage at the output of the second source at the specified 13V rating (for example) can vary from 13 to 19V. In addition, the backlight power source is designed for a maximum current of 1-1.5A. And if so, then 1-1.2A "eats" the inverter and the controller's power supply (if the controller is powered from it) will be left with nothing at all. As a result, we simply get the "squish" in the form of a BP protection actuation from overload. To prevent this from happening, you need to power the controller from the + 5V source. How can I do that? Very simple -apply + 5V from the power supply to the pin of the 5V matrix power selector jumper, which sits on the + 5V bus.What do I mean by this phrase: if the matrix is ​​powered from 3.3V, then hook up directly to the pin or to the + 5V electrolytic capacitor, which stands at the output of the built-in DC-DC converter, and if the matrix is ​​5-volt (and this pin will just be busy jumper) - then only to the capacitor. Or look at where the + 5V bus passes in the controller and choose a convenient place where you can get soldered to it. For V29-V59 controllers, this is a 1084 stabilizer, an amplifier power resistor, etc. This tire is fairly easy to call according to the location of the stabilizer leg 1084 (picture for V59 !!! for others - you will have to search):
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For the Z.VST3463 board, the + 5V bus can be found according to the above mentioned section of the board - this is the throttle pad (where the + 5V bus arrow is stuck).

However, in this connection there is one caveat: we feed + 5V to pin 3 (via a throttle, see the diagram above) of a completely unpowered DC-DC converter chip. Judging by the above internal scheme, nothing terrible should happen. But I still strongly recommend the throttle at the output of the built-in converter to unsolder away from sin. And this is about the V29-V59. But in relation to 3463 or 3663, it is probably necessary to unsolder it. There are cases of "loss" of controllers among forumtsev ...
I think no one will have problems with this connection, because the + 12V source in the designers of the monitors is not needed in any part of the circuit.

Sometimes, it is very rare monitors with a single source. For example, Samsung Syncmaster 225 - he has only one source and he is + 13V. Then of course without options - connect directly to the + 12V connector of the controller. The converter withstands input voltage up to 20V.
And, of course, one cannot say that all of the above applies to absolutely all monitors - of course, there are also non-standard solutions in the circuitry of monitors. In this case, you will need to understand in more detail.
As for the control signals in the power supply unit of the monitors, there are usually only two of them - turning on the backlight and controlling the brightness. Below I will summarize this information in a separate paragraph.

ATTENTION!!! All of the above refers to what I was holding. Those. to those boards where the power part is clearly expressed as shown in the diagrams above. These are V29-V59, zvst3463, D3663. As for the more modern versions of controllers, it is necessary to carefully examine their scheme for this possibility. For example, I can say with confidence that the Qt526 controller cannot be powered this way anymore. I had no others. For this there is a topic, go out with questions - we will decide.

2. CONNECTION TO PSU TVS

Why PSU? Because, in addition to the power supply, there can be quite a lot of other nodes on the board, so the TV power units are called the Power Supply Unit. I must say that the second board (often called the Main Board) is correctly called SSB - the Small Signal Board, and this has a definite meaning. The lion's share of the electricity eaten comes from the backlight, and everything else is trifle, and relying on some significant energy consumption by the controller is not worth it ...
Again the theory - without it, alas, no way ...
It is rather difficult to cover all the constructions of television units, therefore I will give the most common ones. Structural Schemes Again. I’ll just make a reservation that I selected the most significant nodes and if anyone decides to let me know that I forgot to draw the circuits of rectifiers and the correctors of the power factor - believe me, I remember that very well. Just the vast majority will not need it.
Well, at the very beginning I will make a note about their difference from the power supply of the monitors: on TVs (diagonals over 24 ") the power supply has a real standby mode. That is," something "in them in sleep mode" sleeps "and only works active mode. What "sleeps" and how - read below.

but). PSU TV on CCFL lamps
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As can be seen from the figure, these are the power supplies that are used in TVs with tube lights, the inverter of which is present in the form of a separate board, mounted on the back of the matrix. Their distinctive feature is a fairly powerful transformer, from which the inverter supply voltage is removed (+ 24V), in the vast majority of 12V (for powering almost all SSB nodes and, if there is one, for the logical part of the matrix). There are still sources on it for powering audio amplifiers. They are just not interesting to us and I deliberately didn’t even draw them, since they can not be loaded in the work and this will not affect anything. Standby mode is implemented as a separate low-power source, which always works if the power cord is plugged in. I deliberately did not indicate the voltage Vstb, since it can meet with dimensions of 3.3V, 3.5V, 4.7V, 5V and it seems even 6V (maybe I am mistaken in the latter, but in very old models it could be that). The main power supply (+24, + 12V) works only in active mode, i.e. in standby mode, these voltages are missing.
The aforementioned backlight inverter (the so-called stadalone, the one that hangs on the back of the matrix) has another, in my opinion, remarkable feature. Almost all 100% of such inverters are powered from 24V (therefore, if the matrices are similar in size, then they are interchangeable, I mean the inverter, other characteristics are the same), but this is not the main thing - almost all such inverters have two brightness adjustment inputs - PWM (PDIM) and analog (ADIM), which are switched between these modes by a special pin. As a rule, ADIM is not connected, but you can always use it by rearranging the wire in the inverter connector and taking measures to switch the inverter to ADIM mode (in this case, the internal PWM that is controlled by the adjustment voltage is turned on inside it). So this inverter is the easiest to adapt to the brightness control from the universal controller.

b). PSU TV on EEFL lamps
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In principle, there are significant differences from the previous PSU, although this does not have a strong effect on a project based on a universal controller. The main difference is that there is no separate inverter on the matrix and it is located on the PSU board. Why is that? Because EEFL lamps (External Electrode Fluorescent Lamp) have such a design that they can be connected in parallel and the entire lamp lighting unit is brought out of the matrix with two wires. Accordingly, there is no need for a multi-transformer inverter (as is the case with CCFL lamps). All other nuances mentioned above for the previous PSU are also valid for this PSU.

c) .PSU TV with LED backlight
If in the two previous cases, the circuit solutions of the vast majority of TVs did not differ much, then in the case of LED backlighting, PSU circuitry often harbors unexpected surprises in the form of non-standard circuit solutions of developers of a particular brand. Therefore, I present a picture of a strongly averaged average PSU for LED backlighting. Further it will be clear (I hope) that the main thing is not the circuitry, but all the same backlight control signals and supply voltages.
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I think that there is nothing special to comment on - almost everything that was said above.
For what I gave these three schemes. To make it clear how the backlight is controlled and how the power circuits are organized, which we will need later to connect our controller.

And there is nothing more to say ... Anyone who has carefully studied everything that was above under this spoiler can figure out how to connect what and where. But in one, I think, I have to help - to unite everything into one “universal” scheme and it looks like this:
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Here I have implemented the most successful solution for powering the universal controller, which can also be called universal for almost all PSUs. On the left of the diagram, there is a plot of any television PSU, on the right - a controller (the diagram that was above). Now I explain what elements are installed and why, and how everything works.
So, the key point - powering the controller from the duty voltage PSU. This scheme is suitable for cases when the supply voltage of the standby mode is 5V and it is fed as mentioned above in the paragraph about power from the monitor power supply (but only in contrast to that example through a diode). How it works. + 5V pass through the diode and drops about 0.3-0.5 V on it (it is better to use it with a smaller drop of 1N5817). Thus, approximately 4.5–4.7V is fed to the 5-volt controller bus. This voltage is quite enough for the linear stabilizer to produce at its output a confident + 3.3V to power the controller chip. The fact is that the voltage applied to its input must be higher than 3.3V by at least 1.1V (that is, at least 4.4V). In standby mode, the controller consumes no more than 100mA and this is the load of the standby power supply unit PSU. When we "wake up" the controller, it gives the command to output the On / Off connector "INVERTOR" to enable (...). I did not say to include exactly. And all because if you look closely at the above PSU diagrams, you will notice that they have SEPARATE pins for starting the main power supply unit and for starting the backlight. In our case, we simply connect them together and the controller will successfully launch both.
So, the controller gave the signal to turn on the backlight and the main power supply unit. In this case, a voltage of + 12V appears from the main power supply unit, which is connected to the standard power supply connector of the controller. Further, it is converted to + 5V and it in turn is applied to the cathode of the diode. In the "correct" power supply when the permitting voltage Power On is applied, the voltage at the output of the duty unit decreases slightly (as conceived in the circuit), the anode voltage drops below 5V and the diode closes, the power from the standby power supply is turned off and the controller continues to be powered from + 12V, coming with psu. I must say that not all standby power supplies are absolutely "honest." It is likely that the circuit does not provide for a decrease in the voltage of the on-duty power supply unit in the active mode of the main one. No problem, even if the diode and does not close, will not occur. At least the controller will surely be reliably powered by the built-in DC / DC converter, and this situation does not threaten the power supply on duty. When switching the controller to standby mode, everything happens in reverse order. This method is no longer a theory, but a proven and 100% workable (I applied it in my last project, you can find it under the spoiler of finished structures).
For cases when the voltage of the on-demand power supply unit PSU is less than + 5V (meaning +3.3, + 3.5V), it will be necessary to apply a circuit withboostingDC-DC boost converter.Converternot at all scarce and completely capricious and stable. Then the connection scheme will look like this:
Attached Image
This scheme allows you to connect the controller to the "standby" voltage of any size from 3 to 6 volts. At the heart of the same theory with the diode, of which I spoke above - it will close when it appears from PSU + 12V and the boost converter remains unloaded - it is not scary for it. The magnitude of the voltage converter installed at the output (+ 10V) was chosen for reasons of a diode drop and a sure 12/5 V DC-DC converter on the controller board. It is not critical and can be from 8.5 to 11V.
Since the connection according to the second scheme does not require intervention in the scheme of the controller itself, this option can be recommended to those who are afraid to climb into the controller board with a soldering iron and generally spoil the presentation of the controller. Just the second scheme pulls the mandatory purchase of the converter. By the way, it is not at all necessary to buy it in China - they also have it and the cost is about 150 rubles (more expensive, of course, than in China, but not to wait a month ...) ... ATTENTION !!! It is better to adjust the voltage of the step-up converter in order to avoid trouble. This can be done even without load. And then connect to the circuit.
It should be noted that there are additional resistors on these two circuits. Their purpose will be described below in the paragraph about adjustments. However, this scheme applies only to controllers on the V29-V56. For the Z.VST3463 controller, both circuits need to be slightly changed, and the location for connecting additional resistors will look like this:
Attached Image
Those. There will be only one resistor and is connected between On / Off and Adjust. Why it is this way - you can also read about it in the same place in the paragraph about adjustments. For the DS3663 controller resistors are not needed at all.
And one moment. As it is easy to see, all three different PSU options mentioned above contain a standby power supply (for example 5VSB). What it is: it is a low-power voltage source for keeping the SSB nodes in sleep mode. Of course, the TV circuitry varies greatly and the standby power supply unit can be used to power low-power nodes (for example, a remote controller and supervisor), and it can power the entire logical part of SSB in sleep and active mode - then it is designed for loads up to 2-2, 5A. In order not to guess and guess what kind of standby power supply you have, the aforementioned power supply circuits for universal controllers have been developed. We are talking about diodes in the power supply circuits and parallel activation of the + 12V source, which definitely has enough power.

However, it is worth noting another fact - not all 100% of television PSUs can be combed with the same brush - there are also “ambushes”.
1. It so happens that sometimes on TVs a small diagonal of the + 12V source may not be at all and the whole SSB is powered by voltage, for example + 5V. Powering the controller in this case will need to be done on the principle of powering the monitor PSU. How - I hope you figure it out, all the schemes are above.
2. Sometimes there are schemes in which the on-duty power supply unit has a very small capacity - i.e. sometimes it does not even pull the operating mode of the bare controller. There is a way out in this situation. for exampleheredetailed solution, which was successfully implemented by the questioning forum participant.
3. Another option: in the TV's power supply unit there is also a voltage of + 12V (which the controller does not pull) and a working + 12V (from the output of a powerful power supply unit, which comes to life only in the active mode). Then the power supply method is described.here.
The main thing - to decide on the principle. And in particular - do not hesitate to ask questions in the topic. We will understand and make the best decision.

And more ... I practically anywhere did not show wires of "weight" on schemes. This does not mean that they do not exist. They are and their full! They are everywhere. Do not save them.

3. ABOUT POWER SUPPLY OF CONSTRUCTIONS PRODUCED "FROM ZERO".

What is meant: you have a matrix, there is a controller and there is an inverter as separate blocks. In this case, the easiest way is to purchase a 12V power adapter with a power of 40-60W (current 3.5-5A) and launch it. However, 12-volt power supplies are not as widely distributed as, for example, laptop adapters. There is a solution in this case. It is enough to apply a buck-to-dc buck converter (such assuch a). It is placed on the power supply of the controller itself and at its output a voltage of 12V is set (that is, it converts 19 to 12V), and the backlight inverter board is just better powered from 19V (of course, if it allows it). In this case, it will heat up less than from 12V. I would not recommend powering the controller itself from 19V. It is good if a down-converter microcircuit with an admissible voltage of 20-24 V is used on the board. But it all depends on the manufacturer of the controllers - it can install another chip with an acceptable supply voltage, for example, 18V, and then it will immediately “pshiknet” from the attached 19V (and God forbid, with consequences). In the region of the 100 pages of the topic there is a confirmation of this - in the controller, accidentally powered from 20-22V, a DC-DC 12-5V chip flew out and dragged along an important 1.2V DC-DC, which feeds the controller chip.
By the way, those who know how to hold a soldering iron in their hands can safely use an unnecessary power supply from a computer - it will easily be able to issue 12V 5A, and perhaps the fan will not be needed. It can even be launched on the principle of television PSU (after all, in many of them there is also a separate 5-watt power supply system).
You can also buy not necessarily an adapter (in the classical sense, such as in a black plastic case), but an open power supply. I gave a link to a very good BPby thispost
Everything said in the last paragraph, of course, is focused mainly on designs with monitor or notebook matrices. Because it is necessary to invent a “bicycle” on large television matrices with greater care and miscalculation of power.

And of course, the eternal question of almost everyone who decided on the project. Let's even highlight in bold:
POWER SUPPLY SELECTION
In fact, the question is quite simple. I bring him here only for the reason that not everyone here has gathered with radio engineering education or with amateur radio experience.
Sorry, guys, but again the truisms - without them in any way. For those who absolutely no boom boom with electronics, I will explain on fingers.
1. If the power supply unit is written 12V 5A, then it literally means the following: the power supply module outputs a voltage of 12V to the output and at the same time it CAN eject current up to 5A. Does not issue, namelycangive out !!! Those. the controller can be powered from a power supply designed for at least 1000 amperes, but if the controller eats only 1A, then this 1000 A power supply unit will give only 1A to the controller. Who does not understand - re-read again and again until you understand.
2. The values ​​of voltage and current indicated on the power supply determine itsmaximumpower. The power (in watts) at the output of the power supply is equal to the product of the voltage (in volts) and the current (in amperes). Since, as stated above, the value of the current delivered depends on the consumption of its load (and on the power supply units the maximum value of the current that this power supply can "give" is indicated), respectively, the power calculated by the above method is also the maximum POSSIBLE. Those. A 12V 5A power supply unit MAY issue 60W to the load, but if you connect a controller that consumes only 1A, then the power delivered by the power supply unit will be 12W.
And now to the choice of power supply unit. To unequivocally answer this question, you need to be patient and find the strength to read the datasheet on your matrix. So, what serves as a calculation data:
a) Power consumption of the logical part of the matrix. In the datasheet, this (VDD Power) is in the Electrical characteristics section. There may be several values ​​(for different backgrounds of the image) - choose the maximum.
b) The power consumption of the backlight. The same section and sub item Backlight Unit. It is called Power consumtion. We look at the value and multiply by 1.1 for LED backlighting or 1.3 for CCFL. The fact is that this power characterizes the net consumption of the backlight, but we need to lay stock on the efficiency of the inverter.
c) Power consumption of the controller itself in the active mode. Accurate data is not available, but the orientation is approximately 5-6W for the V29-V59 and 8-9W for the Z.VST3463.
We summarize the obtained power values ​​and divide by .... If the planned power supply unit is 12V, it means by 12. If the power supply unit from the laptop is 18.5 (here I have laid the efficiency of the DC / DC down-converter, without which the controller cannot be connected). We get the amount of current in amperes.
It so happens that the data are obtained completely "in the grinding". Then you can either rely on the spare durability of the power supply unit, or after starting the whole structure, reduce the backlight brightness in the service menu (so that it does not work at full capacity). That's all science.

4. CONNECTING ADJUSTMENTS

In many PSUs, as well as in individual inverters, the control voltage is regulated within 3.0 ... 3.5V. From the output of the On / Off controller, a control signal of + 5V voltage is output. In the controllers V29-V59 from the bus + 5V on the collectors of the control transistors are resistors of 1 kOhm. So, in order to turn on the voltage of the turn-on signal and the signal of the maximum brightness level of the backlight to a level of 3.3 ... 3.4V, additional resistors connected to ground with a resistance of 2.7 kΩ are shown in the above schemes. Together with the resistors from the controller, simple voltage dividers are obtained.
In the controller z.vst3463 and the inclusion and adjustment made severaldifferently. The inverter turn-on signal is implemented as the output of a DC voltage from a key collector on a pnp transistor. This is most likely done in order to “power up” this output, since rarely, but still there are inverters that have a low input impedance at the backlight control input. For example, PSU from Philips PFL3606 - it has an input impedance of control input of about 1 kOhm. Therefore, in order to bring the turn-on signal to the level of 3.3V, you will need to hang an external resistive divider at the controller output (you can also build it from 1kOhm and 2.7kOhm, 2kOhm and 5.6kOhm, etc.). About the sameschemeand the controller D3663LUA. The outputs of the brightness control in z.vst3463 and D3663LUA are made almost the same and this will be discussed below.
All the above is just recommendations and perhaps no dividers are needed at all. At least you can safely connect without them - nothing will burn. And only then draw conclusions - we need dividers or not.
The output of the On / Off controller (or BLON of z.vst3463) is connected to the backlight input of the monitor or TV inverter backlight. It may be called BL_ON, BKLT, ENA, B / L_ENA, ENABLE and similar abbreviations for the English words backlight, enable. There will be this connection directly or through a divider (if necessary) - you can decide later. And at first you can simply connect directly. If everything works, then no divider is needed. But I want to warn you that SOMETIMES the value of the signal switching control is involved in the stabilization of other PSU voltages. Rarely, but occurs (for example - PSU LG 42LN540 - where the voltage of switching on + 3.5V is part of the output voltage regulator + 24V). Then the divider is required.
The output of the ADJ controller is connected to the input of the dimmer of the inverter. It may be called DIM, P_DIM, DIMMER, B / L-ADJ, BL_DIM, BRI and similar abbreviations for the words dimmer, adjustment, brightness. If there are two A_DIM and P_DIM (or B_DIM) inputs on the inverter, such an organization of the backlight is found in the monitors, you can try to connect first to A_DIM and check whether the brightness of the backlight is adjusted. If not, then to P_DIM. The fact is that A_DIM is a voltage control (analog), and P_DIM is a PWM control, and in some inverters analog control (A_DIM) might not be soldered at all.
All the inscriptions that I called may have to search. If they are not on the power supply, follow the home wires of the monitor or television tripe - maybe they are on the mainboard.
Above (under the backlight spoiler) I said that there are several ways of adjusting the brightness of the backlight in TVs and monitors (!!!), or to be more precise, four. PWM adjustment - when the backlight brightness is adjusted by changing the width of the pulses, following with a certain frequency, for example 200 Hz, and analog - when the brightness depends on the magnitude of the applied voltage. These are two fundamentally different ways. And plus each of them can have "direct" and "reverse" adjustment. Direct - this is when the maximum brightness for analog adjustment at the maximum voltage at the output ADJ, and for PWM - the maximum width of the pulses (actually a constant voltage level), for reverse adjustment - the opposite is true. I would recommend, before first switching on, to test your existing inverter in standalone mode (without connecting a controller) in order to study its adjustment and trigger levels. In order not to write out all possible options for a long time, I will give an algorithm for starting the inverter:
Attached Image
I hope that everything is clear here - you just need to carefully study it. In the "ovals" in the picture - the results that we need to understand how the inclusion and adjustment of the backlight.
And I repeat: this algorithm involves the launch of the backlightWITHOUT PARTICIPATION OF THE CONTROLLER !!!For fans of unnecessary initiative, I propose to remove the controller away at the stage of testing the backlight so that it is not tempting to connect the contacts on it.
And another very important point, which I did not say. At the time of testing the backlight, the power supply should of course be in good condition and MUST be in operation. Those. in other words, it should be loaded, for example, with bulbs and the voltage on them should be regular. Those. we in this case simulate the normal operating mode of the PSU.
Starting PSU from TVs (in which the power supply itself and the backlight turn on via separate wires) suggests that the power supply enable and light backlight contacts are simply interconnected - in 99% of cases this is enough.
In addition, in order to avoid the startup difficulties that the backlight adjustment can bring, I recommend to apply the maximum brightness level to the inverter adjust when you first start (according to what you learned from the above algorithm, and if for your inverter adj has a maximum when “+ "and on / off is also enabled when" + "is submitted, it is enough just to connect on / off and adj together). The fact is that all universal controllers have direct analogue output at adj. If the inverter has adjustment according to the PWM principle, the backlight may not light up, and you will not immediately determine the cause. Here for this first inclusion do as I said. When all start and configure - then you can do a separate adjustment of the backlight - connect the adjustment correctly and then carry out the experiments, already knowing that everything else is working properly.
Most TV and monitor inverters have PWM adjustment, and all universal controllers have an analog principle (because they are designed to work together with universal inverters, whose analog brightness control is analog). Therefore, these are two incompatible factors. There may be cases when, in some short area of ​​the adjustment characteristic, a change in the brightness of the backlight on the PWM inverter from the applied voltage still occurs (I told about this in one of my projects), but this is the exception rather than the rule. Therefore, I recommend to take this as a given and simply forget about connecting the ADJ inverter to the controller connector, taking measures to establish a constant "maximum" brightness. In other words, you need to land the ADJ inverter either to ground or to supply a constant level of + 3.3V (depending on what level the maximum brightness is for your inverter, which is what the above figure shows with the algorithm for determining this state). I hope it is written intelligibly and clearly.
We continue the "lesson". If, however, you are "lucky" and your inverter is designed for analog adjustment, then in this case you still need to be diligent in order to achieve a result. What is meant. It should be noted that the controller Z.VST3463 brightness control is not as predictable as that ofV29-v59. And even with a large number of drivers and inverters, he isn’t directly friendly at all - set to "maximum", he still doesn’t light up the backlight, which normally lights up if the ADJ of the inverter is connected to BLON. As his test showed, the brightness control output is made this way: from 90 chip outputs through series-connected resistors 4.7 kΩ and 1 kΩ directly to the pin ADJ of the INVERTOR connector. There is no voltage present throughout the entire brightness adjustment range. The reason is that there is an open collector and it is necessary to “pull up” this circuit through a resistor, for example, 2.2 kOhm to the BLON pin. You can try to connect the scheme, which I showedhere. So try and experiment ...
ATTENTION!!!
LIGHT BRIGHTNESS ADJUSTMENT IS NOT OPERATIONAL AND HAPPENS IN ALL UNIVERSAL CONTROLLERS ONLY FROM THE SERVICE MENU.
Adjusting the "brightness" from the remote from the normal menu changes only the brightness of the IMAGE, and not the backlight. Who does not understand - re-read again, so you do not ask questions in the subject.

And since this is a service adjustment, then in case the monitor inverter is inversely related to the applied adjustment voltage from the controller, I think this should not be a “low blow” - you just have the backlight level indicated in the service menu not 90 or 95 (%), and 5 or 10. It does not affect the speed. I don’t know how it is on other controllers, but for example, there is even a Pwm Invert item on the V29 in the service, which can change the adjustment characteristic to the opposite. In general, the soil for the activity is ...

In conclusion, I would like to focus more on this "topic." Slightly higher, I said that if the matrix (this is about notebooks or tablets) or the inverter has only a pulsed backlight brightness control (PWM or foreign PWM), and the controller only has an analog adjustment, you can take steps to set the maximum backlight brightness. But if all the same adjustment is necessary, then there are two ways to implement it:
1. Production of a simple electronic unit - the duty ratio with a variable resistor (then its handle is simply located somewhere behind, since it is often not necessary to turn it). The method is quite convenient and easy to implement. For example, on the Internet you can easily find the pattern of adjustment of the duty ratio on the timer NE555. There is a minimum of elements there, their cost even in the most barges radio base will not exceed 100 rubles for everything.
2. Making a simple electronic unit, but a higher level - an ADC (analog-digital converter) on the microcontroller, which will convert the analog brightness control of the backlight from the controller to PWM adjustment for the matrix (or inverter) on-line.HereForumartrm.grinkolaid out a great adc on attiny13, for which he thanks a lot.
By the way, since such a node works depending on the input voltage, a photosensor depending on the ambient light can be applied with the same success, a kind of “direct ARD”. A little later, I have to make such a car monitor. After I try and adjust everything, I'll lay out the circuit. (did, checked - no words, how cool it works.Hereall told what and how. By the way, I did on the PIC controller, and not on the AVR)
Of course, it is possible to make such an addition on specialized chips (not on microcontrollers), for example, on the same universal timers NE555 or TL494 (I can give them a link to the concept of building ADCs), but this will be somewhat more complicated than on a microcontroller. for examplehereversion of such a scheme fromGrishanenkoon dual op amps.Hereembodiment of the same idea with a reworked board, there is even a video fromareon.
If there are any other options for powering (perhaps at the request of members of the forum) - then I will add, if necessary.
Download Files
This section is dedicated to the universal controller with a TV and is still in the filling stage. As required, I will add.
Manuals.
Look carefully at your version of the controller.
Attached fileND-LA.MV9.P-2.pdf(357.13 KB)

ATTENTION!!! The document in paragraph 6 (IR & KEY schematic) draws the wrong pinout of the control connector. In clause 7.2 (IR and Key Board Connector) the pinout table is painted correctly.
If you collect according to the above scheme, then nothing will burn, but the controller will not work, according to external signs, as if "dead."

Attached fileT.VST29.02B.pdf(588.18 KB)

Attached fileT.VST29.03B.pdf(1.64 MB)

Attached fileTSUx9V5.1Spec.pdf(926.64 KB)

Attached fileUsers guide of V59 TV controller board_V1.1.pdf(2.34 MB)

Manuals for different controllers on RTD2662 (RTD2660)here. thankpashkovv78.

Firmware
And now I would ask to read the following postulates VERY CAREFULLY in order not to ask questions in the subject:
- How to flash the controller (we are talking about universal controllers with a TV on board, since the rest of the controllers are sewn only by "special means"):
The firmware file (ATTENTION !!! not the folder with the file, but the file itself with the .bin extension) is copied to the root of a formatted FAT32 flash drive, the controller turned off from the network, insert the USB flash drive with the firmware file (into the appropriate USB connector) and power up. If the previous firmware installs the controller when the power is turned on, the flash drive activity will appear (it can be seen from its indicator light) and then the controller LEDs will start to “wink”. If the controller is set to "off" when power is applied, it is enough to press the Power button on the keyboard or on the remote control. The firmware process lasts about a minute, the screen does not light up. After the LEDs of the controller have "blinked", the controller can be set to the "on" state (as it happens after the V59 firmware) or to the "off" state (z.vst3463) - it all depends on how the firmware was made. You need to wait 10-20 seconds and turn off the controller (or rather, the TV) from the network. Pull out the flash drive and turn it on - the V29-V59 is ready to go, and the z.vst3463 has to go through the initial installation and configuration.
- Firmware does not necessarily have to carry the name of your matrix. There are thousands of matrices, and this does not mean that there should be as many firmware. You need to look for the firmware that matches your matrix in terms of resolution, bit depth and the number of LVDS channels. Bit rate and channel are encrypted in firmware names like SI6L, SI8L, DO6L, DO8L. 6 and 8 are bits, and SI is one channel (single) and DO are two channels (double).
Look at this nonsense:
Attached Image
I could not even suggest that such a question could arise, but once it did appear, I answer Russian on white: FIRMWARE DOES NOT HAVE A RELATIONSHIP TO THE DIAGONAL MATRIX and are in no way connected with it. Once again: ONLY PERMISSION, KANALNOST and VITALITY. Everything!
- If a lot of firmwares fit on your matrix, then I recommend using a “smart” search. Those. from the firmware with the appropriate parameters, first of all try the firmware on the matrix of the same manufacturer. If you have "exotic" and nothing close is not similar, then start to try with the firmware under the matrix of the same diagonal.
*** At first glance, these words of mine go against what was said two lines above. However, here I put a completely different implication in my words. For example, you have a matrix with a diagonal of 18.5 inches with a resolution of 1366 * 768. And the firmware for this resolution is a dozen. There are those that have the same 18.5 "matrix, and there are those that have large television matrices with the same resolution. In this case, it is better to navigate diagonally, since many small matrixes are interchangeable and have similar time characteristics. But television despite the resolution, they can have completely different time parameters, hence the logical conclusion ... And before you immediately sew, "punch" on the Internet, is there a matrix, which is mentioned in the name of the firmware. Because in the archives a lot of firmware in general is unclear under that.
- If there is no firmware suitable for you, choose firmware with a different bit rate, but with the same resolution and with the same number of LVDS channels. Then, in the service menu of the controller, you can try changing the Map LVDS parameter, which will help your matrix to work correctly (more details will be discussed below). But with the firmware with the necessary resolution and bitness, butfor another channel LVDS This trick will not work.
- The firmware can not control the supply voltage of the matrix in any way. She has no hands to reach out and rearrange the jumper - you should do this yourself. And if you see that the name of the folder with the firmware also indicates the supply voltage - read below:
*** And yet, why do the names of the matrices (and often their electrical parameters) appear in the names of the firmware ... This suggests that when compiling the firmware, the time parameters of the mentioned matrix were taken. Those. They were taken not from the ceiling, but from some specific matrix, but the accidentally mentioned supply voltage is most likely the fruit of sorting the firmware by the firmware writers themselves.
- Be careful when choosing the firmware on your controller. The names of folders with firmware indicate which chip of the controller, how many buttons are calculated and which chip of the tuner. The boards on the TSUM V29 and V59 controllers can be equipped with the Rafael Micro R840 and R842 tuner chips. You can read the name of the tuner on a small chip, which is installed near the antenna connector. To ask in the subject what chip of the tuner is installed on your board is meaningless. This is equivalent to asking the members of the forum to guess which tuner is on the board you are holding. For V56, the firmware is not shared, as it comes only with R842.
- Firmware for boards for V56 and V59 DIFFERENT, do not try to cheat with yourself - get a "brick" !!! Verified by one of the forum users.
- IMPORTANT!!! On different boards, but based on the same MCU - DIFFERENT FIRMWARE !!! Those. for example, if you have a TSUMV59xu based microcontroller board, but not LA.MV9P, but a completely different one, then LA.MV9P firmware cannot be poured into it, despite the same chip. Any board with the same chip, but even a slightly different topology (in fact, the scheme) should already have its own “native” firmware. The thing is that the microcontroller has many I / O ports, through which it communicates with the periphery. So, on one board a specific leg of the chip can perform one task, and on the other board - a completely different, even non-related. The algorithm of operation of all ports is described in the firmware and, of course, depends on the design and wiring of the entire board.

- LA.MV56U controller (maybe LA.MV56U.A maybe - but not sure) on TSUMV56
Attached fileLAMV56_KEY5.7z(45.58 MB)

Attached fileLAMV56_KEY7_part1.7z(73.54 MB)

Attached fileLAMV56_KEY7_part2.7z(72.17 MB)

I'm not sure that the difference in firmware under 5 or 7 buttons is fundamental, because the service menu contains the choice of the number of buttons. However, KEY7 firmware is much larger than KEY5. Therefore, it is more likely that the firmware will be found under the required matrix in KEY7. And select the required number of keyboard buttons through the service.

- The LA.MV56R.A controller is also on the TSUMV56.
It is different from the "usual." Firmware - also "their".
Hereappearance and firmware.

- The 2017 controller on the TSUMV56RUUL-Z1 chip is called either by the chip name or LLV56 (the latter is not 100% sure, but it seems so)
manual(thankmellk ) on tv_vst56 - TSUMV56RUU-Z1
firmware on "a cloud" (thankWest @ ), there are a lot of them there, but they are ONLY for this controller
Here is another DIM4ELAherelink gave.

- LA.MV9P controller on TSUMV59
Attached fileLAMV59_R840_5keys_part1.7z(106.62 MB)

Attached fileLAMV59_R840_5keys_part2.7z(103.33 MB)

Attached fileLAMV59_R840_7keys_part1.7z(106.82 MB)

Attached fileLAMV59_R840_7keys_part2.7z(103.31 MB)

Attached fileLAMV59_R842_part1.7z(122.18 MB)

Attached fileLAMV59_R842_part2.7z(121.36 MB)


- LA.MV9P Controller on TSUMV29
Attached fileFW_LAMV29_universal_TV_board.7z(3.04 MB)


- T.VST29.03 controller onTSUMV29 I apologize, I do not even know under which MCU. In the names of the firmware V59 is mentioned, as in fact - did not try. Most likely it will work on both MCUs (they are interchangeable and have the same architecture). The main thing - these firmware under the chip tuner R620.
Attached fileVST29.03.7z(14.14 MB)


- Controller z.vst.3463.a1 (DVB-T2)
manualhere
firmwarehere.
Another archive with a manual, a description of the entrance to the service and 2017 firmware fromgamedata Attached file2017-3-2 3463A Firmware update.zip (39.79 MB)

Linkeven on someone's archive with firmware. Perhaps the same ...
Archivefromvoron12005 Basically, all the firmware are the same, but there are 1024 * 600, 1280 * 768 and 1280 * 800 fresh (2017). 1280 * 800 - 6-bit.

- D3663 LUA.A8.2PA (DVB-T2) Controller
until quite fresh, little else yet. Firmwarehere(thankbim1405 ). Manual .
Herealso someone has saved up the firmware ... Andherestill...
By the way, there is a version of the D3663 LUA.A8.1-A controllers. You can rename the firmware from the above (detailshere) / There you will also find a link to the recovery dump. thankU ~ A .
Link to the cloud with the firmware for the controller D3663LUA. A81.2.PAhere(thankCrazy_cooler ). I think they are no different from the firmware for the above versions of the controller.

- T.RD8503.03 controller . Positioned as a new version of SKR.03. Here link to firmware.

- T.V56.81 controller
cloud with firmwarehere. There is also a manual for it. True, this controller is not very “universal” - they write that all the firmware is either 1366 * 768 or 1920 * 1080, but the Chinese say by bit that there are 6/8/10 bits. As far as this is all true, neither I, nor anyone else checked (I mean 10 bits).
- ZL.VST.3463GSA controller
About the same thing, as I said two lines above - there are firmwares only for resolutions of 1366 * 768 and 1920 * 1080. By bit is not aware of. Firmwarehere.

- QT526D V1.2 controller DVB-T2
link to google drive with firmware and descriptionhere.
- QT526C V1.1 controller DVB-T2, DVB-S2
link to google drivetyk.

- DS.V53RL.BK controller
appeared quite recently, released as a replacement for the V56. Links to the clouds with the firmware here(1)and(2).

- RR52C.81A controller . Link on google-drive with firmware.

There is one very interesting text document in the firmware archive on z.vst3463. True, either the archiver spoils it, so I post it separately. I think this will interest a lot of people ...
Attached fileHow to make it work with 1366x768 and 1280x800 SI6.txt(1.21 KB)
This suggests that it is possible to use the firmware with one bit on the matrix with another (for example, if there is simply no suitable firmware). After the firmware, everything can be fixed in the service menu. And this is not only for z.vst3463, for other controllers this is also true. In all television universal controllers, the LVDS map item has 16 fixed "maps" of presets. But this method works even in those controllers that have only 2 presets (I personally saw this with the example of the controller M.NT68676-2A).Here isanother confirmation of this.
By the way, if the text and everything that is written here is poorly absorbed, I recommend watching other videos from langeron.ua. I am not familiar with them and this is not an advertisement (I hope they will not be offended for the link to their video). Just in them you will find a lot of video tutorials throughout the material. BUTherethey can dig and search for firmware not only on the above-mentioned controllers, but also on some others.

Firmware for controllers on Realtek RTD2662 chip
Under the spoiler for the types of controllers there are several references to 6 types of such cards. It also says what is called software for each type. Therefore, I will post the firmware here. Check and take those that fit your fee.
Attached filePCB800099_new.rar(642.6 KB)

Attached filePCB800099_old.rar(5.08 MB)
New firmware is very small, but with them you can turn off the blue screen in the absence of a signal. With old firmware it does not always work. The archive of old firmware has two folders with software from 2011 and 2012. The 2011 software (old firmwares) is even slightly different in interface and a bit truncated in functions, however those who use them claim that the picture differs from more modern software for the better. As a matter of fact, I don’t know, but I heard it more than once. In the mid firmware folder there are firmware for all imaginable and unimaginable permissions. So without them it would be sad.

Attached filepcb800661.rar(1.56 MB)

Attached filepcb800168.rar(636.69 KB)

Attached filePCB800809.rar(1017.36 KB)

Attached filePCB800196.rar(1.42 MB)

Attached filePCB800196V6.rar(3.89 MB)

The firmware on PCB800196 is two arrays and for some reason they differ in name. It is possible that this is for different versions of the boards, and it is possible that they were created for the same board, simply created at different times, or someone called it that way. In any case, you can safely try - nothing will burn and will not be covered. If you do not go - it means all the same for different boards. Just switch to the right software.

By the way, for the firmware of these controllers it is not at all necessary to acquire or make some specialized programmer. The memory dump is the firmware itself. Those. The firmware file itself is flashed directly into SPI Flash.

Link to the controller firmware M.RT2281 / M.RT2281.E5here. It will not be necessary at all often, but if I show this link, it means that someone here had an "experience".

Restore the controller in case of unsuccessful firmware.
If you as a result of any incorrect actions with the firmware (the firmware was not uploaded from the controller, the light flashed during the firmware, the computer crashed, etc.) turned on your controller, you will have to remove the SPI flash memory chip (8-foot chip with an approximate name of 25Q32 or 25Q64) and flash a recovery dump into it. Dump (English Dump) (for those who do not know) is the working body of the firmware, which is written in the SPI flash when you flash the controller in the standard way (via USB). A dump is NOT the firmware from the above archives, but what is written in SPI flash as a result of the firmware process. But,hereThe zvst3463 firmware method is described in detail without removing the chip (by the way, there is no difference which controller will be restored this way). So, there the person tried to upload not only the dump, but also the firmware binary as it is. It is unknown how correct this is and what further results of the controller's work will be. It is possible that if the controller is restored in this way, then it will be possible to do a “check” - after the restoration, flash it again in the regular way. I would personally have done it with a dump - the benefit is that they are available for all controllers. Choose which way is more convenient for someone - someone uses the SPI Flash programmer, and for someone it is more convenient to program via debug. You can also do this with Arduino (herestart and a few posts below). In any case, if the controller is oskarpichen, then incorrect experiments are no longer scary for him - nothing will burn. The main thing in our business is to restore the controller, and in what way it will turn out - the course of events will show.

Dump firmware for controller on TSUMV56Attached fileDump_LAMV56.rar(2.68 MB)
Heremore recent and from a more reliable source.

Memory dump for controller on TSUMV59Attached fileDump_LAMV59.rar(2.45 MB)

Memory dump for controller on MST3463 (board with DVB-T2)Attached fileDump_ZVST3463.rar(3.94 MB)
Several dumps for the same fee (z.vst3463) for different resolutionshere(thanks to the forumASS17 - he found it, it may turn out that it’s installed not Russian, but this is easily fixable)

Memory dump for LA.MV9P.V29 controllerAttached fileDumpLAMV9P.V29.rar(242.32 KB)


Memory dump for controller T.VST29.03 (this is on a V59 chip with an R620 tuner). Dump with permission 1366 * 768.Attached fileT.VST29.03 TSUMV59XU-Z1 1366x768 dump 20 06 2013.rar(2.65 MB)


Memory dump for the jumper controller HX6856_MT651-Bhere.

Memory dump for the controller D3663 LUA.A8.2PAhere.
Memory dump for the controller DS.D3663LUA.A81.2.PAhere.

The memory dump of the QT526 controllers is the firmware itself. Thus, you can immediately take the necessary and flash it in SPI Flash (personally did this).

All recovery dumps have been removed from work boards stitched under ANY matrix (!!!). After flashing and installing the microchip in place, your controller will simply “come to life” and will be stitched for some kind of extraneous resolution. Then, in a regular way, you can upload the firmware you need.

And further. There are several ways to solder a memory chip. I warn you: do not try to unsolder one foot at a time - you will damage both the chip and the tracks. If there are no special means, then at least useby thisorby thisby methods.

thankkenst2009 , he gave a link on a whole cloud of someone's "accumulated experience". There you can also find something. But we must act carefully!

IMPORTANT!!!
There are cases that after uploading the firmware and turning on the controller, the matrix works in the "Pattern" mode (palette) - i.e. alternately enumerates color fields and no shamanism gives a positive result. Not often, but still happens. Most often - this is the lot of matrices Samsung and (possibly) BOE. The reason is a mismatch of the clock frequency (probably !!!). An example of the "recovery" of the matrix LTM200KT10 with a DS controller. d3663lua. a8.2 described in detailhere. For this, a datasheet on the matrix is ​​required. But this is not the main thing - you need to understand what you are doing and what the consequences may be if you use this tool incorrectly. In the above example, the parameter was changed, which is possible and has no relation to the clock pulses and the fact that the matrix has earned is pure chance. But the precedent has been created and the attempt does not threaten with malfunctions. To burn does not burn, but if something goes wrong, you will have to reload the firmware again ...


SECOND PART OF CAPS

Post has been editedBoris-leo - 14.04.19, 12:11
Reason for editing: New hat
Boris-leo
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Greega @ 07/26/2016, 12:06*
Strange, now gutted Chinese train, 1 and 2 from dad, went to 7 and 8 mothers?
Yes. In matrices with dual-channel LVDS with a 30-pin interface, just the first pair goes from 1 foot - the loop was originally under such.
In any case, it is easier to take pictures and re-expand.


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Shook up the train. Power 5 volts taken from the USB controller.
In general, launched!
But everything was not without failures (it was difficult to count on it).
Attached Image
Attached Image
Attached Image

There are no buttons yet, but there is a circuit in the datasheet, and in it, as far as I understand, the contact of the button simply closes to ground. I chose the HDMI output this way, this is one of the few that I understood in the Chinese menu, the result in the photo.


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I do not see failure. All OK. Only the firmware is left to roll and everything will go.


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It was stitched, shows, but it looks like the tuner is not the same Very slow setup, does not find anything. Well, very slowly creeping setting.
I have 842 chip.

Post has been editedgreega - 26.07.16, 17:37


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Well, in general, I found a suitable firmware. The tuner found 68 channels from the analog band in the cable.
photo of my frankenstein
Attached Image
Attached Image

I tried to set up digital terrestrial channels on a piece of wire, I did not find them, maybe I didn’t search for it, I might need an antenna, but most likely there is no DVB-T2 either in the firmware or in the tuner, although the tuner is on an 842 chip ...
and for this purpose everything was started.
Attached Image
Attached Image
Attached Image


It now remains to resolve the issue with that and you can implement: D

Post has been editedgreega - 27.07.16, 05:01


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Greega @ 07/27/2016, 02:52*
The tuner found 68 channels from the analog band in the cable.
And what a panic bred?
Greega @ 07/27/2016, 02:52*
I tried to set up digital terrestrial channels on a piece of wire, I did not find them, maybe I didn’t search for it, I might need an antenna, but most likely there is no DVB-T2 either in the firmware or in the tuner, although the tuner is on an 842 chip ...
Chip 842 is the maximum that CAN is DVB-T and DVB-C. And MPEG-4 (DVB-T2 and DVB-C2), he does not know from birth. But “may” does not mean at all what it already catches — only analog TV is laid on this motherboard circuit (what do you want from this board for such money? I met the T2 board, but the order of prices there is completely different.


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Boris-leo @ 07/27/2016, 16:48*
And what a panic bred?
Well so all night archives downloaded
;)
Boris-leo @ 07/27/2016, 16:48*
SP 842 maximum that CAN - is DVB-T and DVB-C
Nuka, Nuka in more detail, especially about DVB-C! As far as I know, digital channels are configured somewhat differently than analog. Although the Chinese found and auto-tuning as in the analogue, for this and summation.


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It looks like I was a bit mistaken in the capabilities of the tuner chip - he "is able"work with all standards, but only with the appropriate binding. That is, it can serve as the basis for any digital TV. That's just an analogue of it immediately on board (as implemented on these boards), and all the other" numbers "can be available only with the appropriate RF processing at the input. Or maybe for a full-fledged work with a digit, a smarter controller is needed, and not TSUM — I don’t know. I don’t recall TSUM in Chinese TV sets - at least Novatek or Mediatek. just say ...

Post has been editedBoris-leo - 27.07.16, 10:52


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* Boris-leo,Well, I will wait for what you can do at 59, it seems to me, it is a matter of procedure, as far as I understand, the boards are the same, maybe the harness is a little different.
What is your problem?
Boris-leo @ 07/27/2016, 5:44 PM*
he can work with all standards
It turns out that even the 840th is “all-weather”, then 842 is simply obliged to be that way. In short, we need the correct firmware.


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The problem is the lack of time and only.
But seriously, I don’t have it. I have a 27 "telly with a luminous backlight. It has a backlight driver that is powered by 24V PSU. It also starts up BLON and has an ADJ input. The fact is that the telly is old - it has two BPs - one 5V low-power on-duty, and the other one is the main powerful one (12V, 24V, 15V). In modern TV sets such a power supply unit is no longer found. My task is to start the main power supply unit so that it painlessly issues 12V power supply for the board itself, and at the same time turning on the backlight. I already thought about how to do it, but I still need to cross the controls myself th telly (buttons, eyelet, LED, loudspeakers, etc.) from the controller board - and this is a complete reworking of the cords That it just takes time..

Greega @ 07/27/2016, 11:22*
It turns out that even the 840th is “all-weather”, then 842 is simply obliged to be that way. In short, we need the correct firmware.
R840 is a "family". And R842 is just a variation of this family. But I would not say that everything can be fixed with the firmware. My opinion - circuitry and firmware is unlikely to help ...

Post has been editedBoris-leo - 27.07.16, 11:42


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Boris-leo @ 07/27/2016, 18:33*
with fluorescent lighting. It has a backlight driver, which 24V is powered by PSU TV

On Ali sold Ledovsky lights, can look in her direction. Then the 12 volt unit is enough for all tasks.
USB output of 5 volts was enough in my case for both the screen and android dongle.
* Boris-leo,I have a question here. But can not my exotic matrix have another resolution, for example 1280 * 720? This is what Antutu issued
Attached Image
The Aida 64 has a similar result.


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Greega @ 07/27/2016, 12:33*
On Ali sold Ledovsky lights, can look in her direction.
I already wrote in the educational program, what kind of lighting. I have been using LED backlight, which is sold in China for a long time, but the fact is that it is intended to replace lamps ONLY in matrices with an EDGE backlight, i.e. which is located at the ends of the fiber matrix. A light guide is a thick sheet of plexiglass. On its surface matte dots of different diameters are applied. At the edges of the point are small and rare, by the middle of the fiber - their diameter is larger and the density is increased. Thus, uniform illumination of the entire matrix plane is achieved. The light guides in arrays with one lamp (LED strip) differ from those that with two exactly the order of applying these points.
A large-scale television matrix with the CCFL has never been EDGE, only DIRECT (i.e., backlight throughout the entire plane).
The uniformity of LED direct illumination is ensured by the correct location of the light sources and the corresponding design and processing of the reflector. So replacing CCFL direct with LED direct is not an easy task. My case ishere. Classic...
Shl. For these cases, I have a few rolls of tapes in stock - the last time I took at all was 210 rub / roll. That's just for this tape you need an adjustable voltage regulator driver, not a current.
Greega @ 07/27/2016, 1:26 PM*
But can not my exotic matrix have another resolution, for example 1280 * 720?
No, he can not. Otherwise there would not be a correct picture. And there would be a completely different interface connector.
So this matrix is ​​not at all exotic.

Post has been editedBoris-leo - 27.07.16, 13:35


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Boris-leo @ 07/27/2016, 20:33*
And there would be a completely different interface connector.

In the sense of another connector?
"Model: LA. MV29.P
resolution: 640 * 480 800 * 600 1024 * 768 1366 * 768 1280 * 768 1280 * 720 1280 * 800 1280 * 1024 1400 * 1050 1440 * 900 1680 * 1050 1600 * 1200 1920 * 1080 1920 * 1200 "


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In the sense of the matrix. The question was about her, not about the controller.


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Here's another interesting thing.http: //ru.aliexpress.c...3e0-b4672a4459d9&tpp=1
BUTherekit

Post has been editedgreega - 29.07.16, 04:11


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Please tell me what are called this type of connectorshttp: //ru.aliexpress.c...4.13010608.0.52.0Xvg9Xwhere they can be taken inexpensively. On the boards there are a lot of them and all are different. I ordered a couple of sets of buttons, but I would like the rest to be put “right”, and not to be soldered to the board.


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Connector cable-board.

Differences:

1) Series
2) Number of contacts

3) Type:
Y: cable outlet housing
A: straight plug to the board
AW: corner plug on board

Posted on 08/26/2016, 12:27 PM:

Greega @ 08.26.2016, 12:13*
where you can get them cheaply.

Where did you give the link, look there :)


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* BigFishCrazy,Or skis do not go ...
BigFishCrazy @ 08.26.2016, 19:26*
1) Series

????
BigFishCrazy @ 08.26.2016, 19:26*
2) Number of contacts
We havesuchfee.
BigFishCrazy @ 08.26.2016, 19:26*
3) Type:
Y: cable outlet housing

Need connectors on the cable "mothers"
BigFishCrazy @ 08.26.2016, 19:26*
Where did you give the link, look there
So what to look for? That is the question!
Give 130 rubles for a connector, I think it is extra wasteful.
Threat If you have something to say on the merits, I will be glad to learn. And to explain to me that I ... please do not need it - I myself know that. Better nose poke.

Post has been editedgreega - 26.08.16, 16:36


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The Chinese do not know what they are called!


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In Chinese, they are called PH-NP 2mm female, where N is the number of contacts.Here isfor example 6-pin. I bought on Taobao - there they are cheaper much, but here it’s still with delivery ... It’s necessary to take different sellers from one vendor and DEMAND that you don’t pay for this price for each lot (where the cost of delivery to Russia is 200 rubles), but so that the delivery was 250-300 rubles for the whole package. Those. the connectors themselves, depending on their pinnacle, cost 25 ... 70 kopecks / piece, sell at least 10 ... 20pcs each, and delivery. So consider.

Before I bought them, I was tugging from imported video recorders - there are often such people there. Now the Vidic themselves are already rubbish, but we need somewhere to attack a pile of this rubbish. In our workshop, such were stacked in piles.

Post has been editedBoris-leo - 26.08.16, 19:39


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