Hi, everyone, I am the owner of the 4/64 version, the device is very pleased, but, as they say, "was pleased ..." now it is no longer working.
Initially, the device worked well, but there were problems connecting the bluetooth to android, so after a while I decided to flash the BIOS from under Windows according to the instructions on the indiegogo page.
I can’t say for sure whether there were any error messages during the update, but after rebooting the device the screen does not show anything (neither by itself, nor via HDMI). The only way I can check if it turns on is to put a USB hub with a green lamp and make sure that it lights up (which confirms that the device is not completely dead).
I also tried to disconnect the battery, as suggested in the Google plus community, but it didn’t help, so I think that re-flashing the BIOS is the only way out, but I don’t know how to do it without a working display (maybe there is some kind BIOS programmer, but I need to find out the exact specifications and firmware instructions).
Can any of the honorable public help in any way? I would really appreciate any help and ideas ...
Thank you very much, I hope that the gadget can still be fixed somehow ...

google SN341 or lpt-programmer (you can solder yourself). The chip is most likely at 1.8v, solution options are also described as from 3.3 to 1.8 translate. (someone and 3.3 volts managed to reflash, but you can burn the vinbond chip, although it’s cheap) I have a little painted in the signature how I sewed it. BIOS, please merge other owners prog fpt32 (on the off site there is -https: //www.indiegogo ... touch-mini-pc#/updatesif the Windows key is critical (is it on the goal in the BIOS?) Then the hex editor can be replaced with 1111 for example.

There are isolated cases that the bios was dumped by short legs-I read that another bios is flooded, shortening will not help, so we look in the section about laptops / tablets or tv prefixes on the atom in the caps for instructions on reloading the bios

Post has been editedHarryman - 13.11.16, 09:11

klimenko_a,
Greetings. There you areinstructions to revive Wintel CX-W8
If GOLE1 has a mikruha-spider with the inscription Winbond - this is UEFI, they are on almost all set-top boxes. Google a picture of Winbond W25Q64, for example, to understand what you are looking for. A flasher kit on Aliexpress costs 150-250 rubles. When you find out what the UEFI chip is in GOLE1 - google its characteristics. Some are flashed to 1.8V, others to 3.3V, immediately then order the programmer with the power you need, because I used to be wise with the programmer separately, because it was 3.3 and the chip in the set-top box 1.8.

Thanks for the tips, I’ve already tuned in that without a programmer, nowhere ((.
Googled that we have winbond 25q64fwtim, which needs to be sewn through a 1.8 V adapter.
Now I’m looking for where to buy a programmer, adapter and a pin (so as not to get drunk, which I have never done before) in Moscow - I hope to avoid a month and a half of waiting for delivery with Ali with a general small budget ... so far I have found only a programmer and a clothespin, and those not bought yet.
There is also a question about the firmware - the native BIOS archive, uploaded to indiegogo, contains 32 files, and if we assume that I need the one called bios.bin, then it’s not clear what to do with the rest (maybe this one is enough to start, and then flashing it all over again under Windows right?)

It will also be wrong if I don’t ask - is it possible to find someone in Mosvka who has experience in the bios-piercing craft, who could flash the bios on my equipment and take up to 1,500 rubles for this? Maybe you know where and whom it is better to turn to - advise, please, if there are, contacts in Moscow. Still, it’s dumb to do what I never did, all the more to the end it is not clear whether soldering can be done ...

Many thanks to everyone!

call for services, the firmware is just about 1.5t.r. will cost. contacts of people with programmersChuwi Hi10 (Post asyan4ik # 50778140),. The clothespin does not always contact well, you can just solder to the chip by disconnecting the battery. On the site, the remaining files for firmware from Windows or EFI, they are not needed, if the BIOS.bin is normally uploaded, then nothing more is needed

Post has been editedHarryman - 14.11.16, 05:03

Dear colleagues, friends, thanks for the help, my gadget is quickly cured!
I found a person in Moscow according to the announcements of Avito, who successfully flashed my BIOS with the help of a programmer and a lowering to 1.8 V.
The clothespin normally attaches only after partially pulling out the circuit from the case, but the contacts themselves cling well, and a single bios bin file firmware was enough (for some reason, the firmware instructions said it was necessary to flash twice).
In general, if someone needs the contacts of this specialist in Moscow, I can share it (I don’t know if it is possible to write here, or better in PM).
Thank you all.
P.S. After the firmware, the bluetooth worked fine, there seemed to be no new problems.

klimenko_a,

how much did you pay?

They asked 1000 rubles, if you buy equipment in Moscow yourself, it will turn out about 1600, but I myself would not even get to the BIOS chip with a clothespin - I had to disassemble the device. So I'm calmer.
And since everything was quick, convenient (we met day after day at a time convenient for me), and it was also very clearly explained, I paid 1,500 (on my own initiative)

For a long time I was tormented with the search for suitable lightweight assemblies for our device, so that everything would work and be updated, but at the same time there would be a minimum of unused components and services ... And I decided to do it myself. I did it according to the Lopatkin method, his script, but the list of components to be deleted was compiled by myself, everything was done by the standard dism and powershell components, I did not use any third-party programs. A lot of things were removed, camera, parental control, defender, onedrive, group policy, all metro applications except the Store, its libraries, Edge and the calculator. Xbox removed. The standard search works, speech also left it, it is necessary for the search to work.
A complete list of deleted packages in a text file is attached. Also, all drivers for printers, scanners, network and wifi cards are removed, everything is installed separately through the device manager.
I did the cutting of the full version of Home 14393.0. After cutting, I added kb3200970, kb3202790, i.e. at the moment this is a completely updated build 14393.447. : rolleyes:
On the desktop, the Restart.cmd file was taken from Lopatkin assemblies, it performs some optimizations and settings, deletes standard tasks in the scheduler, disables Windows error reporting, removes folders from My computer, disables the home group, print service, all this can be turned on later if necessary .
Synchronization works, applications are downloaded and updated, all drivers are installed, front-panel buttons work))
On C drive, the Service folder in it contains files for enabling the UWF filter for those who need it, and files for enabling and disabling Autoupdate (if anyone does not want the computer to start downloading updates when it wants to), do everything from the admin.
Immediately after installation in / compact mode, it does not slow down the work on disk C in any way; 4.22 gigabytes are occupied after cleaning the disk with standard tools, after installing 5.57 gb drivers, about 805 mb of RAM is used. : P
An archive with drivers is attached, from the task manager for all devices with an exclamation mark, select the search for drivers on this computer and select the folder with the drivers.
Windows Home on GOLE1 is activated automatically after connecting to an Internet.
Also, after connecting to an Internet, the Store will want to install applications such as Twitter, News, Facebook, etc. You can simply cancel their download in the store itself, or delete it later with the usual way who does not need them.
Auto-rotation does not work, its inclusion is not in the settings, as I understand it somehow connected with Win Home, I checked it on 2 tablets, installed the same Home, Pro, Ent assemblies from which the same components were cut, auto-rotation works only on Pro and Enterprise.

Wim file drivers and list of removed componentsHEREUse anyone interested: thank_you:

Migrated from Windows to Android using WintoAnd. After that, when loading, the OS selection was gone, Android immediately loads. How to return a choice?

Was the program’s shortcut directly on the device’s desktop from the beginning? If so, then lower the shutter in the "Android" on the right and at the bottom, it seems to the right, you will see the switch to "Windows". You can see the reviews of "Gole1" on "Youtube.com", there are also moments where they switch from one operating system to another.

I know about the switch:

But I can’t get this picture:

Is this a malfunction or can I somehow turn it on?

Well, after switching to "Windows" through the switch from "Android", at subsequent downloads, does not the choice between two operating systems appear at startup?

Not! Looked in the BIOS: version 2.17.1249 06/09/2016 13:14:19
Can update by this instruction?How to install GOLE1 BIOS (Sep 9) .pdf(471.98 KB)

The case is as dark as two bags of firewood ...

I will not revive much of the topic:
I have this device!
There is a positive experience in finalizing the device in terms of the load capacity of USB ports - initially the maximum load on the port is limited by a current of 600 mA, a special microcircuit is responsible for this - USB Power Loading Switch LPW5206 - if you replace it with ELPW5208 then the current will be 1.2 A - I don’t Found it, but found a replacement for the TPS2069CDBVR and ordered it through MOUSER Electronics. The load current of the TPS2069CDBVR is 1.5A, now the hard drive starts up without problems!

In the picture below, the microcircuit, under replacement, is indicated by circles, only 3 pcs., The Chinese saved and put one microcircuit on TWO ports, the first on the top two USB, the second on the right two USB and the third on MicroUSB OTG.
Also on the motherboard there is a non-soldered connector for 5 pins - this is another full-fledged USB port with increased current output - designed for the GOLE1 + HDD version, i.e. Winchester should start up without crutches through this port - it has not roared yet, has not found a suitable connector, and soldering to wires is not aesthetically pleasing ...

But be careful! The Chinese deliberately limited the current so that the total current would not be more than 1.8A - replacing microcircuits is EXTREMELY not recommended to load all ports to the maximum! (according to the circuitry, it is made so that the input voltage 5V decreases to the battery charging voltage through the PMIC AXP288C, and then the IC LP6253 increases back to 5V 3A and goes to USB ports)

Post has been editedViktor_7 - 30.11.16, 17:21

Have you ever thought about installing a voice modem there? Or cameras, or a second speaker? Or you can also put a light sensor and a proximity sensor ...

In theory, you can solder a 3G or 4G modem into this 5-pin non-soldered connector (like a whistle with a sim card);)

It all depends on the requirements / tasks assigned to this gadget, you can screw anything on the technical, only it will already be a monster on crutches))) A modem, a camera, a speaker, sensors, maybe also GPS? - making a phone out of this product is pointless; it will work little in time, bulky, does not look like a phone)))
It can be used as a mock platform for the implementation of a new non-Tablet / Phone with full Windows, but it is very laborious ...
That’s what we really would like to have, so that the antenna is removable, the frames are smaller, so that with the same dimensions the screen would be larger, maybe even AMOLED with a Wacom pen, and also an optical mini-trackpad, like on the MSI 110w.

Yes, this can be easily done, only the case is metal - either make the remote antenna or make the back cover of radio-transparent material.
By the way, you can solder a USB flash drive, a large volume, who is too lazy to put MicroSD.

Well it can be done. ;-) Put there a standard connector for antennas and your dream has come true. Or he can make a frame from the wire on the back cover and connect it to the antenna contact, and remove the native antenna and insert the plug in the hole. Perhaps such an improvisation will be no worse than the native antenna. ;-) But nothing will stick out of the case and interfere ... Or put a telescopic antenna ... It will also be more convenient than the "native" option.