[X]Assistant

[gabby]

Batteries, Repair / Operation / DIY
Lithium Batteries - Operating Rules | Battery Replacement Guide | Experiment with alternative charges / batteries | Power Bank do it yourself

The topic is open due to the increased interest in the battery theme, especially in the homemade part. And you must admit that in the same HARD - mastakakh - it is simply lost.
We place and write here yours:
- Schemes of self-made batteries (DIY)
- Experience of their operation (not only self-made)
- Repair / restoration
- etc.

useful links

The method of determining where "+" and where "-" in the battery connector, if there is no old battery
Reinforced battery for QUMO QUEST 450 with redesigned back cover
Determining the accessories of the third battery contact
As I increased the battery Amoi A928W
Personal experience of combining batteries

Post has been editedstp101 - 14.04.18, 13:10

Reason for editing: New cap author AndrewP_one

[Sh.Kutusha]

People, does anyone have info on the design and restoration of the battery for Qtek s200? There is a Samsung PM16A Li-Pol at 1200 mAh, 6 contacts and (according to rumors) a heavily fancy 8- (

[macepete]

Spasibo max2sim za YAKUMO

[Andrey-y]

Sh.Kutusha @ 02.27.08 19:19:25

People, does anyone have info on the design and restoration of the battery for Qtek s200? There is a Samsung PM16A Li-Pol at 1200 mAh, 6 contacts and (according to rumors) a heavily fancy 8- (

About the description of the controller and the scheme, seeBattery Monitor i-Mate JAMA(DS2762 scheme corresponds to the original PM16A 1200 mAh battery (there is a very slight difference), DS2760 scheme corresponds to the Imate Jam 1500 mAh battery), the battery is disassembled in a circle, neatly with a knife, slightly peeled off the sticker along the edges.

Post has been editedAndrey-y - 28.02.08, 22:51

[pasha1976]

Tell me, mak2sim, is it necessary to use exactly the same type banks?
I will clarify the question. I want to keep the native battery, and attach external banks to the external alignment of the battery compartment cover (I have HTC Universal) by connecting them parallel to the controller of the native battery parallel to their relatives.
Here there are questions:
1. Where to find the same banks as used in the native battery? Most likely nowhere. Can you still connect to the banks in your own battery others that are approximately suitable for capacity?
2. If you buy other cans (pick them up from the phone batteries), and replace the cans in your own battery, and put the same ones in additional ones, then everything will be the same, but how will the controller relate to lithium-ion banks if polymeric? Lithium-polymer battery to the phone is also very cheap you will not find, mostly lithium-ion from obsolete models are sold cheaply.
3. Is it possible to make additional banks connectable? That is, we output a small connector to the body of a standard battery to connect additional cans when mega-capacity is not needed - we use only the standard battery and the usual battery cover. When a reinforced battery is required - we change the lid to the lid with additional canisters glued on top, we plug them into the connector on the battery. Is it necessary to reconfigure the controller so that it starts to see the increased capacity?
4. I correctly understood that the most win-win option (albeit the most expensive) is to buy, for example, three standard batteries, pick up two cans and connect them to the third controller? It turns out at a price (if ordered on Ebay) about 40 bucks, but the capacity will be triple and the thickness will be less than the double capacity battery (with such our devices, due to the "hump" on the back cover, they get about 5-6 mm thick).

[mak2sim]

pasha1976I will try to answer in order:
Banks need to usesimilar (manufacturer, voltage, capacity). (Although, to be honest, I tried different ones, there was nothing terrible ... but it’s better not to.)
1. Absolutely identical banks, most likely not found. Take the battery from the device, go to the store and pick up donors there according to capacity and size. A smaller can capacity will give a correspondingly smaller device operation time.
2. Should work, there are no particular differences in charge-discharge conditions between the lithium-ion and the lithium-polymer.
3. I think that you can. Only banks must be the same and "on hot" additional batt. elements should not be connected. The controller, usually a black box, will or will not see - you have to try, but usually everything works out (in this regard, the native controllers from HP iPaq are very capricious, although there’s no problem with the same battery from a third-party manufacturer).
4. It will probably be the most reliable. But it is better, I think, to take batteries from a third-party manufacturer (look for what have good reviews) - their controllers, as I wrote above, have less problems with alterations, and it will be cheaper.

[mak2sim]

пїЅпїЅпїЅпїЅпїЅпїЅпїЅпїЅпїЅпїЅпїЅпїЅпїЅ пїЅпїЅпїЅ Lox720/718 download

In this topic there was a mention of a megabattery for Lox720 designUnreal76. In connection with the increased interest in such devices, I post here detailed photos of this design, kindly provided to me by the author, for posting on our forum (Unreal76, thank you very much!). Let me remind you that this battery has a capacity of 4800mA / h. The device with such a battery worked in a hard mode for viewing video via Wi-Fi for about 8 hours, versus 2.5 with a native one. Device layout:

Recently, color-coded resistors are common. Nameplate:

The photo shows (and is indicated by me) that instead of one of the resistors there is a trimmer, apparently it was set to accurately determine the nominal value in the process of tuning. When repeating the design, we put constant resistors in accordance with the scheme.
Well, finally, a photo fromUnreal76:






In the attached archive, these photos in the VGA + scheme + color-coded resistor table.

Attached files

mb720.rar(3.27 MB)


Post has been editedmak2sim - 01.09.09, 23:51

[pasha1976]

mak2sim 03/04/08 00:56:57

pasha1976I will try to answer in order ...

Thanks for answers. That is, do you still recommend from a third-party not only take banks, but also a controller? I just reasoned like this - if you save the case of the native battery and its controller, then you don’t have to redo anything in the sense of mechanics - all the latches will remain on the case of the standard battery, and the contacts on the native controller correspond to the device’s contacts. And now in the body of the battery to shove other cans. Yes, and the likelihood that the device correctly recognizes other people's banks connected to their own controller is higher than with a combination of someone else's cans and someone else's controller. I am not clever (I kind of asked myself, and I answer myself), this is just my thoughts, correct, pliz, if where is wrong ...

[mak2sim]

pasha1976
That is, do you still recommend from a third-party not only take banks, but also a controller? I just reasoned like this - if you save the case of the native battery and its controller, then you don’t have to redo anything in terms of mechanics - all the latches will remain on the standard battery case, and the contacts on the native controller correspond to the device contacts. And now in the body of the battery to shove other cans. Yes, and the likelihood that the device correctly recognizes other people's banks connected to their own controller is higher than with a combination of someone else's cans and someone else's controller. I am not clever (I kind of asked myself, and I answer myself), this is just my thoughts, correct, pliz, if where is wrong ...

pasha1976, “from a third-party manufacturer,” I meant the battery for a PDA not from the manufacturer’s company, but a clone 1 to 1, but another trustworthy company (say, Acmepower or something else). The reason: third-party companies, making clones, simplify the controller, throwing out all sorts of locks, charge-discharge counters, etc. Such is the case with HP iPaq batteries - it’s problematic to change banks in HP’s native (here), however, in a clone - easily and without problems. Although, many manufacturers do not abuse their controllers with such variations, for example, Loox720, where banks change is elementary. If the banks in your battery have died, pick up the cans from the phone. and change, problems may not be (most likely will not). If you want to make an additional megabattery, then probably it is better to make it out of clones (1 in 1), at least it will be cheaper. In any case, it is best when the controller and the battery case (whether native or a clone) are designed for your device, the adaptation of someone else's controller (for example, from a cellular battery) is an extreme option that does not give any guarantees. If you decide to disassemble your battery, do not dial the cans directly to the "megamonstra", buy, say, 2 (provided that you can purchase the required number of the same), remove the wires from the battery case so that the bank can be placed next to the PDA solder one first, see how the computer will work, drive it, try several charge-discharge cycles, add a second one, see how the time of working with one and two banks changes. If everything is fine, buy more cans and make a megabattery. Prered by all thisBe sure to backup!

[pasha1976]

So I'm going to do something like that - buy another battery from a third-party manufacturer of standard capacity or increased, but in dimensions of a standard battery (there are such, in my O2 XDA Flame there is a Cameron Sino 2000Mah in dimensions of a standard one, and this is with a standard 1620Mah capacity) Already in his battery, the case should be crammed and, additionally, the banks should be removed from the telephone batteries of suitable size by the back cover ... Banks should be removed from the battery itself, they should not be connected in parallel with other telephone batteries, they would be of different types, what risks mb. That is, from the battery itself only the body and the controller are activated ...

[pasha1976]

And here's another question. I have an enlarged battery to the device when sticking with a scotch of a service contact works twice as long (the controller is buggy and the device shows 0% when another half, respectively, is cut down). Maybe you can somehow fix the registry? Do not glue the contact, leave charge monitoring (better battery readings are better than none), but prohibit the system from doing anything at a low charge level. That is, the battery discharges to 0% (that is, this device thinks so that it is 0%), but continues to work, then the battery will be turned off by its own controller when the voltage reaches a certain value (deep discharge does not occur anyway). How to disable the low charge reminder in the registry - I know, checked, turned them off, and the device went out by itself by 0% without reminders, but in reality there was still a decent charge in the battery. That's why I ask how to turn off ANY system actions (decrease in the processor frequency, brightness, disconnect the telephone module, turn off the device, finally) when reaching 0%?
P.S. Search probably taxis, but I found only turning off reminders.

[xellos2005]

http://wiki.modaco.com/index.php/Windows_M...2.2_ROMs_tweaks

according to the link = file with painted Windows reg
there is a key

Low Battery warning
Low Battery Warning

By default, the battery will be low (10%, fixed value). To enable this, you can see the "Sounds & Notifications" control panel, set:
HKCU \ ControlPanel \ Notifications \ {A877D663-239C-47a7-9304-0D347F580408} \ Default = "Low battery warning" (REGSZ string, no quotes)


Note that it can be used

---
Reading battery level
AND VALUE OF BATTERY CHARGE

You can read the remaining battery charge from this key. In my system it shows 5308416 when fully charged.
HKLM \ System \ State \ Battery \ Main (DWORD value)
---
5308416 this number = full charge.
current is left as a thread to cover it, so that it always says that it is full.
or something like that.

[xellos2005]

English topic on the same issue:
http://forum.xda-developers.com/showthread...t=302739&page=5

http://www.pocketpctweaks.com/pocketpc_twe...view_all_tweaks

Post has been editedxellos2005 - 07.03.08, 15:51

[pasha1976]

Thanks, I will read ...

[xellos2005]

pasha1976,
In the topic of xda flame, there is a couple of links to discuss the links, if you think better than to read dll in HKLM \ drivers \ builtin \ battery \ batterydrvr.dll, say)
In principle, it works - you turn off the dll - it does not determine how many batteries there are \ left in the software way.
But imho there the value of its charge min and max (low high) is also indicated, only in some strange numbers.
repost from that topic
working (as they say) method of soft battery calibration.

and the program, which you can monitor the battery by vltazhu (after setting) instead of the indicator (for those who renamed the dll turned off the software surveillance)
Batmemtime

still in the same topic
http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=45:7090-49

Post has been editedxellos2005 - 08.03.08, 00:40

[pasha1976]

I read all the links - not this ... I'll try to explain.
Recalibration of the battery did not help me, neither with the Flame battery, nor with the Universal battery ...
As for third-party software - it takes information from the same place as the standard Windows battery indicator, if we turn off the charge indication in the registry (rename the dll or change the Order key), then the charge level is also lost by third-party programs. I did not find any programs that would measure me from other contacts (from the main ones, for example). So, disconnecting the hard way by measuring the springs from the battery (sticking the contact) helps, but does not solve the problem of lack of charge indication (and God bless her, by and large) and normal charging (which is much worse). Therefore, the most promising one is to unearth what I wrote - to leave everything as it is (charge indication, etc.) and simply prohibit the system to take any actions to achieve a low (in its opinion) charge level. Then, after reaching 0%, the animal will continue to work until the battery disconnects its own controller. The inconvenience for the user is that it will be necessary to remember how much the beast can hold out after reaching 0% (otherwise, after 0%, I have Universal with Cameron Sino 4800Mah twice more than with 100% to 0%) .

[xellos2005]

pasha1976,
Did you happen to find a way to make the beast work after 0%?)
PS - IMHO turn off the key order to exit the output - because it does not interfere with charging, and the battery shows the last value all the time.

[izmalkoff]

pasha1976,
Service contact is which one? Trouble me with a bat on 4800 ...

[pasha1976]

Yes, that's looking for now, wrote insavagemessiahzine.com ->PDA and communicators ->Programming for PocketPC, maybe someone can tell by the registry ...
I'm not sure yet, but it seems that even with charge monitoring turned off (by renaming the dllkey or changing the order parameter), it stops to show the charge, but it is still cut off early, take out the battery, seal the contact - and continue to work and work ... So That this software method does not interfere with charging - but it does not give an effect ...

Post has been editedpasha1976 - 08.03.08, 13:58

[pasha1976]

Just checked - turned off the soft method (renamed dll) charge monitoring - the device worked and turned off all the same on the first third of the charge. When you try to turn on - the screen lights up, Windows starts loading, sometimes did not reach the end, sometimes it reached, but the animal was still cut down after a minute. Then sealed contact - started and running, put the film - turns. Conclusion - the soft shutdown of the display of the charge level does not change (at least for my little animal - HTC Universal) nothing, when a certain voltage is reached at the service contact - the device turns off. There is no voltmeter, otherwise I would measure this voltage, compare it to that of a standard battery (when it is also 0% according to the animal's readings), measure it at both batteries when they have fully worked with a sealed contact, that is, when the battery is already disconnected the controller. In all these cases, I would measure a sponge also on the main (non-service) contacts - at 0%, according to the animal, on a full charge with a sealed contact, on a full charge until the green light comes on. Then you can draw some conclusions ... Who has a voltmeter, ay .. Maybe someone else interested in such things?

[izmalkoff]

pasha1976,
tomorrow or the day after tomorrow the voltmeter will be returned to me (if it is still relevant)