[X]Assistant

[kochrob]

Here will be collected answers to your questions related to the features of photography techniques, secrets that you share.
If you have a question and you did not find the answer here - CREATE a new topic separately with your problem. Moderators will then transfer here the most interesting and important.

• POLARIZATION FILTERS
  
• How to make the front object is clear, and all that is behind is blurry?
  
• Making a slideshow
  
• exposure tips
  
• How to clean the lens of the lens
  
• Scrub brush for photoshop
  
• Colorization of black and white photos
  
• depth of field calculation program
  
• Printing photos 30 * 40
  
• View RAW on your PDA
  
• RAW software
  
• Programs for the wholesale reduction of photos
  
• Remote Code from Nikon D50, 70, 80 for the Neuro Remote
  
• Remote control codes from Olympus and Canon for Novii Remote
  
• EXIF Conversations
  
• what program of photoshop is better to start using
  
• How to properly resize?
  
• Program for sticking photos in a panorama
  
• Links for photographers
  
• photography techniques DETA
  
• photography techniques_flowers
  
• photography techniques
  
• photography tricks
  
• Techniques of photography_winter landscapes
  
• How to shoot is not necessary!
  
• Photo school from Pentax
  
• Photo archive organization
  
• Shooting with an external flash
  

Post has been editedSil-silent - 22.08.12, 22:53

Reason for editing: fixed a bug in the tags

[kochrob]

[email protected] 10:23:06

EXIFs save pls when processing.

Flesh [ZLO] 06/21/2007 19:13:03

pmaker, why do you need exifs so much?

[email protected] 11:55:25

It is unpleasant that the work that won in the 1st competition is questioned in relation to authorship. Here everyone is believed in the word. But pmaker, right. Saved EXIF, at least, will save you from such raids.
EXIF (English Exchangeable image file format) is a standard that allows you to add additional information to images and audio files, commenting on this file, describing the conditions and ways of obtaining it, authorship, etc. Received widespread in connection with the emergence of digital cameras. Information recorded in this format can be used both by the user and by various devices (for example, a printer for direct printing from a camera). The EXIF ​​standard is extremely flexible (for example, it allows you to save the coordinates of the location taken from a GPS receiver - this feature is not currently used in household cameras) and allows for a wide development - as a rule, cameras add information specific only to this particular camera to a file. Correctly interpret this information can only programs from the manufacturer of the camera.

The format developer is Japan Electronics and Information Technology Association (JEITA).

These parameters can be viewed in image viewers, graphic editors and special programs:
Windows
Windows Explorer (Windows Explorer) - built-in multi-purpose shell. Call - My computer or open any folder. Enable display of detailed details of each file. After right-clicking on the column headings, select the displayed columns.
ACDSee (version 6.0 and higher) is a popular image viewer. Call: View / Properties / EXIF.
IrfanView (with EXIF ​​plug-in) is a free image viewer. Call: Image / Information / EXIF ​​info.
Photoshop (version 8.0 and higher) is a popular graphic editor. Call: File / Browse / Metadata.
FAR (with JpgExifViewer plugin) - file manager. Call: F11 / Jpeg EXIF ​​Viewer
XnViewhttp://www.xnview.com/
Aidsoid Viewer is a free image viewer. Call: Information / EXIF.

Unix / Linux
digiKam
Eye of GNOME
F-spot
GIMP (with Exif Browser extension)
gThumb
GQview - Challenge: Edit / Properties / Exif Data
Gwenview
ImageMagick (display) - Challenge: Miscellany / Image Info
jBrout
XnViewhttp://www.xnview.com/
A source:http://ru.wikipedia.org/wiki/EXIF

This post has been edited by kochrob on 07/01/07 12:09:32

SD Alone @ 07/01/07 7:00:54 PM

Also TotalCommander from version 7 with the plugin Lister (which already allows you to watch pictures). Down there is a camera icon and an EXIF ​​inscription.

[email protected] 06:53:46

Well, actually Opera too EXIF ​​shows a bit

Flesh [ZLO] 07.07.07 09:42:35

kochrob, SD Alone, pmaker, gentlemen, please tell me how, after cropping a photo in Photoshop, well, and reduce the size of the photo to leave exif? Thank you in advance.

SD Alone @ 07/02/07 10:13:24

Exif disappears, if Photoshop is worth, mine, the seventh or lower versions, all CS already save exif. Of course, if you do not rub it with your hands

Flesh [ZLO] 07/03/07 11:11:34

ABOUT! Exactly, if I do through "save for the web", then exif is rubbed ...

Post has been editedkochrob - 03.07.07, 17:26

[kochrob]

R. Mihalych @ 07/01/07 3:23:18 PM

Lord experts!
Advise what program of photoshop is better to start using? I am new to this business, and therefore I would like to start with something not very messy and complex.

Man Without A Face @ 07/01/07 15:24:34

Photoshop

[email protected] 15:30:58

Speaking of the latest photoshop:http://mediatory.ru/faq49_faq_171_0.phtml

mur-mur-meow @ 07/01/07 23:00:04

AdobeВ® PhotoshopВ® Elements 5.0

Slid @ 07/02/07 7:08:11 PM

CS / CS2 if there is a rich collection of plugins and CS3, if you are not going to use plugins. Under CS3, many plug-ins just do not go, but CS3 is more convenient in operation (but this is just my point of view). At the very PC and laptop are CS and CS3.
My advice: put yourself a CS and buy a book Photoshop CS. Bible user author Dick McClelland.

[email protected] 9:52:11

Tutorials for photoshop

[BombilCalabasov]

How to properly resize?

As a rule, after reducing the physical size of the photo, it looks "zamylenny", not sharp. This is especially noticeable in the case when the resulting size does not have a direct multiplicity to the original, i.e. when the number of pixels does not decrease exactly in 2 - 3 -4, etc. times.

What can be done in this case?

The easiest way: apply a filter from the Photoshop program called Sharp. This filter increases the contrast at the transition and visually makes the picture more sharp. BUT! The action is pretty rough. Such photos are often criticized for being "reharpened" ...

I use a more subtle way:
1. After reducing the size of the photo, press Ctrl + A (select all) Ctrl + C (copy) Crtl + V (paste into a new layer)
2. Next, in the properties of the layer on the Layers tool, select the mode "Overlay"
3. In the filters, select Other - HightPass; in the parameters window set Radius = 0,5mm - OK
4. Press Ctrl + Shift + E to merge visible layers.

Compare with a simple "Sharp" - the effect is more subtle, but very noticeable!

[kochrob]

[email protected] 11:41:10

software for working with RAW

Mur-mur-meow @ 07/31/07 23:44:46

aperture, lightroom
IMHO the aperture for the photographer is optimal
http://www.apple.ru/aperture/

[email protected] 15:46:26

Adobe Photoshop Lightroom v1.1 Full Version (30.2 MB + cure) is takenhereandhere

[email protected] 15:46:26

Portable Adobe Lightroom 1.1 Portable version. (16.9 MB)
swinghereandhereorhere

Slid @ 08/02/07 7:39:43 PM

is ready:Adobe Photoshop Lightroom v 1.1 30 MBThe program itself and the key to it. All working

gabby @ 08/03/07 18:47:26

Capture One PRO 3.7.7 (2007)timeandtwoandthree

Slid @ 08/08/07 8:07:30 PM

Here is another review of the converterLightzone

[email protected] 10:19:37

Adobe Camera Raw & DNG Converter

[Flesh [zlo]]

A wonderful program for gluing photos into a panorama ... today I sat down, experimented from the window, glues with a bang and without seams ... Literally 2 mouse clicks.
Here's a photo, I didn’t reduce it because it is still hard to look at the PDA ... who is interested in general (click on the picture to see the full size)<a href = 'http: //savagemessiahzine.com/forum/dl/post/80429/img-43554-img-43543-Stitched_002.jpg 'title =' user link '>img-43554-img-43543-Stitched_002.jpg: </ a>

Miocker @ 09/09/07 3:23:30 PM

Didn't you try PTGui Pro? Interested in panoramas, stumbled upon the sitehttp://qtvr.by.ru/NewQTWR/navigator.htmfound it, screwed it, as advised Smartblend, impressed! And the size is small.
Attachment PTGui Pro + Smartblend

Attached files

Panorama_Maker_3.0.rar(19.67 MB)


Post has been editedkochrob - 07.10.07, 02:45

[slimest]

How to make a blend. Even the patterns are on the site :)
http://www.lenshoods.co.uk/

[kochrob]

Theme "photo archive organization" in one file

Attached files

______________________.zip(208.59 KB)


Post has been editedkochrob - 30.11.07, 23:41

[FVS7]

Remote control codes from Olympus and Canon for Novii Remote
Tried on Olympus E410, should work with Canon EOS 300D, 350D, 400D

Attached files

photocamera_RC_nrd.zip(1.78 KB)

[DonSergio]

A good overview of the information storage services on the mobile review

Not ours
Our

Perhaps some of the information is already a bit out of date, but much is still relevant.

[kochrob]

D1G1taL @ 03/10/08 20:15:27

I bought you external puff ..
Ask questions:
1. How do I know the following when I make a portrait
When to put the flash at 90 degrees (In the ceiling)?
When the flash is 90 degrees, when to remove the lens (Reflective screen)?
When I direct the flash to the head-on position, do I always need to remove the softener?
2. When photographing a portrait in principle, never direct a flash "in the forehead"?
3. Is the TTL mode fully automatic?
4. pilot button - i press and blink flash, zafig need it?
5. When for example I photograph a person, and the sun falls on him completely, then the flash should be used to get a shadow and soften the light falling on the object?
Thanks in advance!

D1G1taL @ 03/10/08 20:15:27

when i make a portrait

A flash directed at the forehead will “kill” the shadows, make the face flat, leave overexposure on the protruding elements of the face: the cheekbones. the back of the nose, frontal bumps. Therefore, if you shoot indoors and there is no possibility to "put" the light with the help of several sources, it is better to direct the flash to the ceiling (usually it is white) and fix (or extend) the reflector (visor). The main impulse reflected from the ceiling will create a filling light reflected from the visor - it will add shine to the eyes, smooth out the shadows. You should always pay attention to the color of the walls and the ceiling, since the light reflected from them will be already colored, which, combined with the color of the pulsed light and falling from the window (often passing through colored curtains), can create such a complex range of facial blemishes. by any means.

D1G1taL @ 03/10/08 20:15:27

Is the TTL mode fully automatic?

It all depends on the mutual understanding of camera electronics and flash.

The TTL mode is called so, because when determining the illumination of an object, the luminous flux passed through the optics of the camera and the photosensitive elements of the camera are used.

Through the connector, the camera transmits information about the exposure parameters to the flash: aperture and shutter speed, as well as the value of the shooting distance. Based on the obtained data, the flash approximately determines the required value of the light pulse, and when using the long shutter speed and “second curtain” synchronization, the required time delay for turning on the lamp. At the time of shooting, the camera's photosensitive element determines the illumination of the object and turns off the flash when it reaches the required level. TTL-mode completely eliminates the need to configure both the camera and flash.

Most flashes designed for use with cameras equipped with zoom lenses, in addition to the leading number, are also characterized by a variable scattering angle. To change the scattering angle, moving the reflector inside the flash using a servo drive is used, for an additional effect, you can change the design of the diffusing glass. This function is achievable in all modes, but the best effect can be achieved when using a multi-pin connector and TTL mode.

D1G1taL @ 03/10/08 20:15:27

Pilot button - I press and flash flash, zafig need it?

This allows you to evaluate the pattern of the shadow created by the flash on the object.

D1G1taL @ 03/10/08 20:15:27

When for example I photograph a person, and the sun falls on him in full

In this case, the flash should be located on the opposite side of the sun to soften the harsh shadows.

Here are some links
http://ifotograf.ru/1007.html
http://photo-element.ru/ts/flash/flash.html
http://foto.potrebitel.ru/data/4/93/131.shtml

Added @ 11.03.2008, 00:18

D1G1taL @ 03/10/08 20:15:27

When I direct the flash to the head-on position, do I always need to remove the softener?

This is a lens that allows you to use a flash with wide-angle lenses.

Post has been editedkochrob - 29.03.08, 22:29

[D1G1taL]

The question is:
Why on the manual, with external or built-in flash, shutter speed more than 200 is not set?

[iPryanik]

Probably because the frame at high shutter speed - light (turns white)

[D1G1taL]

iPryanik,
And why tady in the priority mode of the aperture, put so much shutter speed? (I always almost on the manual, but it became interesting) while I flash and in TTL and manul ((what tell?

[kochrob]

D1G1taL @ 05/19/08 00:06:45

shutter speed greater than 200 is not set?

no more, but shorter than 200. with a shorter shutter speed, only part of the frame will be lit.

[D1G1taL]

kochrob,
Doctor, why is this nonsense sober? O.o Do not dock automation?

[Satory]

Is it related to flash sync time? In theory, we need support for shorter flash exposures. For all offices, this is said to be sort of different, on Olympus this is FP mode.

[kochrob]

I will explain on the example of the work of vertical blinds.
The flash will evenly illuminate the frame only when the curtains are fully open and the light falls on the entire frame. For each type of camera there is a minimum time for this discovery. For old cameras (such as Zenith E) it was equal to 1/30 seconds - this is the maximum speed with which the curtains could move. The principle of operation is as follows: the place of closing the curtains is located at the edge of the frame. When you press the shutter, one curtain starts earlier and moves back to the opposite edge, revealing the entire frame. Then (suppose you have a minimum sync shutter speed of 1 \ 30 seconds), the second curtain after 1 \ 30 seconds rushes after the first one, closing the frame from light access. That is, on each section of the film (matrix) the light fell exactly 1 \ 30 seconds. More short exposures (read exposure time) were achieved by the fact that the first curtain did not depart to the opposite edge, but did not stop at some distance from the second, forming a gap between the edges. Then both curtains began to move together horizontally along the frame. As you understand, the maximum time of movement of this slot remains unchanged and is equal to 1 \ 30 seconds. The narrower the slit, the less light (read the exposure) will fall on the frame (matrix) at one time. This results in shorter shutter speeds. If in the moment of movement of the slit a flash fires (and the time of light impulse is very short), then only that part of the frame that this slit was opposite is turned on. In the photo you will see a vertical line of light on a general dark background.
I apologize for the possibly confusing explanation. But "... don't shoot the pianist - he plays as best he can." Now, I hope, the principle of flash synchronization in the second curtain should become clear.

Added @ 21.05.2008, 11:41

Satory @ 05/20/08 12:01:10

on olympus this is FP mode

The flash emits pulses according to the speed of the gap between the blinds. Naturally, the power (guide number) in this mode decreases.

[BombilCalabasov]

Slightly correct our leader ...
The amount of light caught on the photosensitive element (film, matrix) is determined by two characteristics: the intensity of the light flux (in the closest approximation - a diaphragm) and the duration of this light exposure (exposure). This, so to speak, is an introduction that was worth mentioning again ...

1. First, let's talk about the shutter speed, more precisely - about the types of valves
If you do not consider any exotic, then all options can be reduced to two types: central (petal) and curtain (slit). The central shutter is placed either behind or inside the lens and works like a diaphragm: a few petals open, letting the light in, and then close. Valves of this type are used either in compact cameras or in large lenses for wide-film or format cameras. Slot-hole (curtain) closures have found their application in mirrors (film and digital). Among them there are two sub-types: horizontal (earlier - cloth, now - metal) and vertical (metal, sometimes lamelnye). About the principle of operation of the horizontal cloth shutter colleaguekochrobtold in some detail. Indeed, because the speed of movement of the shutters is a constant value, then the lighting time can be adjusted only in one way: by setting the interval between the movement of the first and second shutters. Those. at short exposures, a slit literally moves past the photosensitive element, and the shutter field (at the Zenith, for example) is completely open only at shutter speed of 1 / 30s. It is for such shutter speeds of such devices that synchronization with the flash is set up, which only works when the first shutter is fully opened. If you tried to shoot with a flash at a shorter shutter speed, the frame was exposed only in that short area of ​​the frame of the frame that turned out to be open at the time of the flash.
The situation with vertical slit gates (currently used in most devices) is somewhat better: the movement time along the short side of the frame is significantly less, the mechanism can be made easier and less inertial, therefore the situation when the frame field is fully opened is achieved at much shorter exposures: 1/200 for example.
The principle of the flap shutter is easy to understand by looking at the horizontal window blinds. Such closures are used, as a rule, in film cameras, when film loading goes through the back cover. In the film mirrors, when it is necessary to gain access to the matrix through the landing hole for the lens, horizontal metal curtain valves are used.
In general, everything is simple with the central closures: there the entire field of the frame is always lit by definition, but here another factor begins to affect ...

2. Flash pulse duration
If you look at the distribution of the amount of light from the flash over time, it turns out that the shape of such a characteristic will be far from rectangular. Those. there is a time until the ionization of gas in the flask is gaining momentum, then - until all the energy applied to the electrodes of the flash lamp is exhausted, and, of course, we will observe a certain attenuation process. So, the trick is that the declared power of the flash pulse is given only for a certain time. If the shutter speed is much shorter than the pulse time (with a central shutter, for example), then only a part of the luminous flux necessary for normal exposure will fall on the photosensitive element, and as a result we get underexposure. This, too, is the reason why a shutter speed of at least 1/200 s is used for flash synchronization, even for central shutters.

Incidentally, the technology of "stretched" pulse was used to solve the problem of flash synchronization with short exposures on old cameras, when using special electronic circuits the lamp was made to start to shine from the moment the first curtain began to move and until the second one finished. Most often, this flash mode was called FillIn ("fill light"). For example, this is how it worked (well, it still works, by the way) the built-in flash of my OLYMPUS iS-3000 in “Portrait” mode, when you need to highlight the shadows from the sun.

Well, something like that ... It seems that I did not invent anything "from myself" ...;)

Post has been editedBombilCalabasov - 27.05.08, 08:40

[D1G1taL]

BombilCalabasov,
kochrob,
Thank you friends.
I have another question now. I updated the carcass.
And now, when shooting now the sky is pinkish, grain appears on ISO 640-1250. and noticeable. I thought from the transition to the 30d, he is supposed to hold better than 350k. Or maybe it's in the glass case?
For example, I took shutter speeds 1/30 and f8, and I set 1000, and it turned out like this:Attention traffic

[BombilCalabasov]

D1G1taL, no, miracles do not happen ... on small matrices, a sensitivity greater than 400 will always produce grain. At least at the current level of technological development.