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kochrob
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15.05.07, 23:45
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Here will be collected answers to your questions related to the features of photography techniques, secrets that you share.
If you have a question and you did not find the answer here - CREATE a new topic separately with your problem. Moderators will then transfer here the most interesting and important.



Post has been editedSil-silent - 22.08.12, 22:53
Reason for editing: fixed a bug in the tags
Imater
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26.12.05, 08:21
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The most complete set of articles for photographers:
(to date, 200 articles)

http://www.fototest.ru/articles/technics/

A lot of articles for photographers:
http://www.photoline.ru/indexteor.htm

The most popular site in order to submit your creations:
http://photosight.ru

world news photo site
http://www.fotonovosti.ru/
website with lots of photos
http://photo.amourzone.ru/

Mari77 @ 01/08/06 11:17:13 PM
For inspiration:
http://www.fd-studio.ru/

Mr. PEPSI @ 09.02.06 11:11:38
photo and video reviews with a comparison of the footage -http://www.videozona.ru/

Probe @ 03/03/06 02:21:33

Miocker @ 08/29/07 6:41:00 PM

DonSergio @ 08/31/07 11:30:17
before buying a camera, and after that, it would be nice to get acquainted with the following
http://www.ixbt.com/digimage/faq1.shtml
http://afanas.ru/video/photo.htm

ATTA @ 08/31/07 7:50:29 PM
A good site for comparing cameras and watching new products.http://www.dpreview.com/

Felics @ 08/31/07 11:23:09 PM
A good site with tests and descriptions of cameras www.steves-digicams.com

very interesting site, with lessons, techniques for both photographing and subsequent processing -http://www.photoscape.ru/photoschool/

rmz_rmz @ 09/03/07 11:28:05

Arvydasius @ 09/03/07 11:41:33

Arvydasius @ 09/03/07 11:41:33

Serenitatis @ 09/04/07 22:24:28
http://zerolayer.ru/
A lot of information on photo processing and work in Photoshop.

lch @ 09/07/07 00:28:02

OlegN @ 09/12/07 4:42:31 PM
Portal for digital photos.
http://www.imaging-resource.com/

OlegN @ 09/27/07 9:07:38 PM
Photo magazine "Hooligan element"
http://photo-element.ru/articles.php
Theory and practice of a photo ....

A good site with lessons both in photography and in their processing in Photoshop.
Photo Home

Hookah @ 09/27/07 10:10:10
Panoramic photography (series of articles: practice, theory, technology, directions),
in particular, how to work with PTGui
http://www.qtvr.by.ru/

Miocker @ 10/25/07 5:34:12 PM

Miocker @ 10/25/07 5:34:12 PM
Lessons from Photoshop professionals "Photoshop Top Secret" 5 DVDs, almost 19 gigs !!!!
fiction site _http://www.photoshoptopsecret.com
Download:
Rapida _http://warload.ru/2007/08/15/photoshop_top_secret_dvd.html
Torent _http://torrentz.com/1ef613fd153b061f514228b9631a920d646876b6


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Merzavec
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06.01.06, 14:32
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POLARIZATION FILTERS
Dmitry Katkov,

A camera without a filter is a waste of money!


As a photographer who shoots mostly landscapes, I often use different light filters to achieve certain effects. There are a great many filters of this kind, but among them there are those without which, in my opinion, photographing a landscape is almost impossible to imagine. We are talking about polarization light filters, which we will call polarizers in the future, as is customary in the environment of the photographing fraternity.



The effect produced by polarizing filters is due to the fact that they delay or transform the reflected rays, often saturating colors and increasing the contrast. The exceptions are reflections from metal surfaces - polarizers do not delay them. Therefore, you will not be able to “erase” your reflection in the mirror.

A convincing and well-remembered illustration of the work of the polarizer is one of the HOYA advertising posters, which shows two pictures of a girl sitting at a table by the window in a cafe. One is made from the street without a filter, the other is made using a polarizer. On the second one, there are no “parasitic” reflections of the street in the shop window, which allows the inquisitive spectator to evaluate the harmony of the legs of a beautiful cafe visitor.

At present, there are many more types of polarizers on the photo market, besides the linear and circular ones described in the manuals and self-instruction manuals on photography. So first of all we need to systematize the whole diversity of these filters, and then understand how a particular polarizer can help when shooting a landscape.

By the form of the polarization lattice filters are divided into linear (LINEAR) and circular (CIRCULAR). There is a strong opinion of manufacturers of photographic equipment that modern systems of SLR cameras "go crazy" from linear polarizers, that is, they incorrectly determine the exposure, and especially the focal length. Therefore, owners of "DSLRs" are encouraged to use circular polarizers. The above fully applies to cameras with a prism.

According to the effect produced on the image, polarizers can be divided into four groups:
- general purpose polarizers;
- polarizers combined with other filters;
- polarizers that change color;
- filters - amplifiers of individual colors.



General Purpose Polarizers

The most common general-purpose polarizing filters are most often referred to as L-PL (linear) and C-PL (circular). Features of application of these filters are as follows.
First, their efficiency depends on the angle of rotation of the filter relative to the axis and varies from zero to the maximum degree. In this case, the factor of transmitted light for most polarization filters is equal to 4, which leads to the need to increase the exposure by 2 degrees. It is important to know that this factor does not depend on the degree of filtration, that is, on the angle of rotation of the filter relative to its axis.

Secondly, the polarized regions of the sky are uneven: in a clean sky, the light will be most polarized in places at an angle of about 90 degrees from the sun on both sides, that is, on our right and left hands, if you stand facing or the back to the sun. Check: point the camera at the indicated area, rotate the filter until the maximum effect is obtained, then turn in the direction diametrically opposite: the effect has disappeared. Therefore, when shooting sunsets or picturesque eastern sky at sunset in front of the sun
this filter will not help you. When shooting water surfaces, you can find the most optimal location experimentally, stepping along a selected area of ​​the reservoir and rotating the filter around the optical axis. This is important to do in the absence of waves, which, because of their curvature, reflect different parts of the sky.

Thirdly, the filters are not designed to work with diffused lighting, because in such a situation there are no directional reflections of the luminous flux, therefore, in cloudy weather, these filters will not be useful to you.

As was said, conventional polarizers to some extent delay the reflected rays. At the same time, not a single filter delays them completely and completely. Is it necessary? I use them for shooting landscapes under a blue sky with or without clouds (look at the photo of the monastery), shooting water, I also got good results when shooting buildings illuminated by the sun, freshly painted surfaces, rainbows (at an angle of about 135 degrees from the sun) and flooded the sun of city streets right after the rain. By delaying reflected rays, filters “darken” the blue sky, leaving the clouds white; make the water transparent regardless of its origin - Lake Baikal or a puddle on the pavement after rain.

It’s good practice to use polarizers when shooting flowing water using a tripod. The fact is that in order to obtain the effect of the “milk river”, an expopair close to f22 and 0.5 s is needed. It is often not possible to obtain such an expocouple in bright, sunny weather, and therefore photographers use a neutral gray filter (ND) to reduce brightness. Bearing in mind that the polarizer also significantly reduces the illumination, I prefer to use it instead of a gray filter where possible, while receiving both increased exposure time and saturated color of water, as well as other visually active elements of my picture.

When buying a polarizer, pay attention to the fact that it does not have any extraneous residual color (for example, blue or pink): the polarization filter must be neutral gray.



Combined polarizers
with other filters

I adhere to such a rule that if you can do without a filter in general, you need to remove it, and if you choose between two filters and one in which both are combined, then you need to shoot with this one, because each additional filter affects the image quality. From here it is clear the purpose of polarizers, combined with other filters.

An example of such a polarizer is the UV-PL-CIR filter already mentioned by HOYA, which combines the capabilities of a circular polarizer to increase contrast and color saturation with the capabilities of a UV filter to absorb ultraviolet rays.

Another example is the Tiffen Warm Polarizer, a polarizer combined with an “insulating” Series 81 filter. We give readers the opportunity to independently find the answer to the question of where to use this filter and send my guesses to me via email
[email protected] or to the editor.

We should also mention the filters 161 - 163 of Cokin, which are circular polarizers painted in different colors (pink, blue and yellow, respectively). I must say that the effect produced by these filters is somewhat specific. For example, when the filter 162 (Polacolor Blue) rotates around its axis, the picture changes from slightly bluish with bluish reflections to slightly bluish with dark blue reflections. That is, it does not “darken” the reflections, but as if “blues” them. Filters of other colors - respectively. Working with these filters requires considerable experience, but can lead to good results when shooting in unbalanced lighting or in a monochrome scene, such as, for example, a winter landscape.



Color Changing Polarizers

The most accessible of them are the filters of the French company Cokin series 170 - 174. Their task is to change the color of reflections in the range of working colors of the filter when it is rotated around the optical axis (look at photos of a city street). So, for example, filter 170 (Red / Green) at one position paints all reflections (and the sky, of course) in red, and when it is half-turned around the optical axis - in green. You should work with these filters very carefully, since they all have an unpleasant side effect - the residual color of the filter itself, which changes from slightly pink in Blue / Yellow to ruby ​​in Red / Green. In this case, the residual color of the filter does not depend on the angle of rotation.

However, if you know the features of these filters and be able to correctly use them, you can get pretty good work. So, when using the same Cokin 173 Varicolor Blue / Yellow filter, you should remember its primary colors - blue and yellow. If you manage to find a scene where these colors could harmoniously blend, then the result can be a rather interesting and unusual landscape (look at the photos of the desert).



Filters - amplifiers
individual colors

These filters, according to the company Cokin, belong to the group of polarizers, although I do not quite share it. In any case, it would be extremely inexcusable to miss a great opportunity to talk about these magic filters. Their task is to saturate one or a group of similar colors without affecting other colors.

In the catalogs of various manufacturers, there are filter amplifiers of red (Redhancer, Intensifier), green
(Greenhancer, Green Field), Blue (Bluehancer, Blue Intensifier) ​​and other colors.

The use of these filters in landscape photography creates interesting creative possibilities. They are good for shooting sunsets, meadows of grass and autumn landscapes, great for urban landscapes, including night.

When using these filters it is worth remembering
about some of their features. First, the quality of these filters varies widely depending on their manufacturer. By purchasing, for example, a Redhancer filter for $ 30 - 40, you get a real amplifier of red shades, which leaves no extraneous tonality on the film, and for $ 16 you will most likely be sold a filter with the same name, but giving an indelible pink tint on the negative. To an even greater degree, this problem concerns filters saturating blue and green.

This problem becomes almost insurmountable when shooting on positive films with increased color saturation. Look at the picture with the red bus: when using the negative Kodak Gold 100 film and the Redhancer filter, the picture does not show any extraneous color, while the web photo with the same filter shows a pink color on the Fuji Velvia slide film. The extraneous tonality in such situations has to be adjusted when printing in a professional laboratory.

An important feature of the Redhancer filters is their ability to saturate not only the red shades, but also enhance the blue and gray. Therefore, if you have a scene built on the contrast of these colors, then applying the Redhancer filter will allow you to increase the impact of the image. For an example, look again at the picture of the bus.

Interesting opportunities are given by use of these filters together with usual polarizers - their action doubles. An example of such an experiment can be seen on this page and in the photo in the title of the article.

As you can see, there are many interesting polarizing light filters, and using them when shooting a landscape can greatly expand your creative possibilities. Experiment! Wish you luck!
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There is a lot of beauty around, but if you just mesmerized to click the shutter - good pictures will not work. The beauty of the subject will help make the picture attractive, but no more.

I suggestas an experimentcreate a theme in which everyone shares his or someone else's photography examples.

And the main thing to offer a "turnkey solution" ......

What is it for? In order that everyone would learn to more or less tolerably photograph what they see fit. And if possible, reduce the number of captured “Walls and sofas, with distorted human faces in the corners.

To begin with, I will try to post a couple of articles from Finder magazine ... ..

Children

Photos of children changing, becoming older every day, can not get boring. This is a great subject for filming. However, if the children know that the camera is aimed at them, then it will not be possible to capture them in a relaxed state. What is the best thing to do to photograph the living, natural face of a child? Let's get acquainted with some of the little tricks and techniques that are useful when shooting children.

����� �1 download



Attached Image

Do not choose a place and time - any moment and any place is suitable to take a picture
Naturally, very often parents photograph their children, or grandparents - their grandchildren. Every day the children get older. It is quite obvious that we want to capture in memory such important milestones in the lives of our children as birthdays, Citigosan (literally - Seven-five-three - these three ages of the child are considered special and celebrate them too, giving special importance), admission to kindergarten and institute; but I would like to see completely everyday moments and events, for example, such natural and ordinary ones as children's games, that got on the film. Then you will have a good memory of how the children grew up, in addition, these pictures will certainly be very valuable for the children themselves.
There are a lot of chances to make good pictures. Everywhere, where the child is, it is good to take photographs and there are no such cases when, for example, in order to make a beautiful panoramic picture, you have to go to some special place. At home, in the courtyard, in the park nearby - you can safely take pictures anywhere and anytime. When photographing children, any place and any moment in time is your chance to take a good picture.
To realize as many opportunities as possible to take great photos, it is important to prepare the camera in order to be ready to shoot at any moment. It is not necessary to use only SLR cameras at all - a simple camera will do as well. Take a picture and then take a signature on the pictures. This can be called one of the tips on the technique of photographing children.

Reception number 2
Convenient to use the standard zoom; also be sure to use flash
When shooting children, it is convenient to use cameras with a zoom objective of about 28 ~ 100mm. We would not advise you to use wide-angle lenses, for example, 17mm or 20mm, because due to the distortion (deformation) of the person in the pictures can get distorted. On the other hand, 300mm or 400mm super telephoto lenses are also not necessary. It will be enough a camera with a single zoom lens, in most cases it will not let you down.
Regarding those cases when telephoto lenses and wide-angle nets can still be useful: if you want to take a close-up picture and show some background, approach the child and photograph it with a camera with a wide-angle lens; and if you want the background to be blurry, and the child's figure is clear, then use a telephoto lens and make the aperture more open.

Attached Image

In addition, be sure to use the flash. It is completely optional that enough light will fall on the subject of your shooting. Often you have to take pictures in the shade or against the sun, and if you do not use the flash, the face is constantly dark and the skin color is ugly. In these cases, take pictures with a flash, it will serve as an auxiliary light source. In photo A - a funny combination of facial expressions - a crying boy and a girl watching this; the picture was taken in a gallery, and if it weren’t for the flash, the picture would be dark, and the facial expressions of the children would be poorly distinguishable. Be careful to take pictures at a distance where the flash can sufficiently illuminate the subject
Cameras with a built-in flash are most convenient, but if you don’t have one, then using a separately purchased flash will expand the image space. Using the flash allows you to get the most natural colors, and in addition, helps to level the result from shaking hands and the subject, so be sure to use it. However, we advise you not to use the flash if, for example, you photograph photos of children having fun during the fireworks, otherwise you will not be able to convey the “atmosphere”. When using ISO 100 film and a low click speed, the negative effects of hand shake are strongly manifested, for this reason it is better to use films with high photosensitivity, such as ISO 400, open the aperture as much as possible and take pictures in natural light. It’s best not to wait for the sun to set completely, but to shoot when it’s still a bit light, then the photographs will clearly feel the atmosphere of “evening life”.

Reception number 3
The natural expression of the face and pose of the child can be photographed when he is busy with something
"Attention, rented!".
You say it and send the camera back to the child. Gradually, he begins to realize this. If he is tense, then no good pictures will be taken, and if the children are quiet all the time, then this is also not interesting.

Attached ImageAttached ImageAttached Image

In order to be able to capture the living, natural expression of the face of the child, take pictures when he is busy with something. For example, he eats as in photo B, plays, photo C. Such activities are a great time for filming. Move a little further away and take a photo with a camera with a telephoto lens, then the child will not notice that he has become the subject of the shooting, and you will be able to photograph a more natural expression of the face or posture, see Photo D.
To take a close-up picture of your face clearly, it’s better to use a wide-angle camera, but if you get close to children, they can understand everything. Not only children, but also adults - just look at the pictures - often turn out to be tense. The fact is that if the one who photographs is tense, then the one who is being photographed is strained, and then this can be seen from the facial expression. This is especially true for children.
What do modern day nursery to combat the tensions of children? In particular, in order for the child to relax, it is important to communicate with him for some time. Then the tension gradually disappears, and a sweet, natural expression appears.
The children's facial expression is constantly changing, so - do not take your finger off the shutter, take pictures, and if you shoot on film - do not regret it and stock up on the film as it should.

Reception number 4
Basically, the survey is carried out approximately from the level of the child’s eyes.
Attached ImageAttached ImageAttached Image

When shooting children, as a rule, the camera is lowered to the level of the child's eyes. If you photograph from a height of an adult, the pictures will be taken from top to bottom, and this will bring a depressing feeling to the pictures. On the other hand, if you kneel down to be with the eyes of a child on the same level, then it will be easier to talk, and the child will be more relaxed, and then he will be more natural in the photo (for example, see Photo E).
However, depending on which picture you want to take, you can take pictures and standing, from top to bottom. In photo F, we wanted to show what is in front of the drawing children, so we photographed from a higher position. In addition, it happens that in this way they are trying to show perspective, or open space.
Further, they usually take pictures, standing facing the object, focusing on the expression on their faces, but it is also interesting to photograph the child from behind, and so try to guess what his face is now. In the photo G is a girl in a straw hat, photographed from behind. If the girl’s face was visible, it would be just this child captured in the photo, and since the face is not visible, both the photographer and the person looking at the photo see the girl in a straw hat and can imagine, for example, how he daughter sat exactly the same summer day in the same hat. Thus, a completely special picture is obtained.


Reception number 5
Take pictures of the baby with his mom

Attached Image

Naturally, the most pacified and cute infant baby or toddler looks close to the mother. Therefore, you can take a very good picture by taking a picture of a mother holding a child in her arms (photo H), or playing with him.
Picture I is taken wide (24mm), the viewing angle is large, and in the photo, the mother holding the child and the child are also clearly visible. Since the picture was taken from a close distance, from top to bottom, the mother herself does not suspect that she was in the frame. Therefore, her face was not tense, very natural.
It goes without saying that the shots are good not only with the mother, but also with the father, and with the grandmother, and with the grandfather. If the child is not tense and feels good on the hands of someone close, do not forget to take a picture of this picture.

Reception number 6
When shooting a baby, focus on its eyes.
In photo J, we captured a very cute expression of the face and position of the baby. The background is blurred, in the center clearly stands out the figure of the baby.

Attached ImageAttached Image

In the photo, K is a sleeping baby. An interesting point here is that in order to convey the atmosphere of the world of dreams, a softening filter (Soft Filter) was used. Kids are so inherent in this pacified facial expression when they are in the "land of dreams"!

Photographing: Consultant Nikon Technical Support Center,
Member of the Japan Association of Photographers (JPA), Haga Kenji


EQUIPMENT REQUIRED FOR CHILDREN

In most cases, a camera with an objective size of 28-100 mm is sufficient.

Using flash allows you to expand the space of the picture. It is convenient to use cameras with built-in flash.

Positive film - 100 ISO is enough, negative - use a film with high photosensitivity - 400 and higher. Stock up on enough film.


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Barlog
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Flowers

Thanks to the exquisite and bright beauty and magnificent fragrance, the rose has long caused love and admiration of people and deservedly received the title of Queen of Flowers; She is a very popular subject of photography. In order to fully convey the beauty of the rose in the picture, it is very important to choose the right moment for shooting and to study the features of photographing flowers. Let's take a look at the basic rules of shooting and show a rose in all its beauty.

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED FOR SHOOTING

1. The most convenient way to use a 105 mm lens. The most versatile - AF Micro Nikkor 70-180 mm.
2. Needed to prevent negative effects (unsharpness) arising from shaking hands


Reception number 1
Show the beauty of an almost unfolded flower, take a close-up picture
In order to better express the exquisite beauty of a rose, it is better to photograph not from afar, as in a greenhouse, but close up. It is very important to choose a flower of good shape. If you shoot a fully opened rose, the photo will be a bit heavy, for this reason the most suitable is a bud that opens up to 80 percent. Then in the flower will be noticeable strength, movement, its beauty will be visible in the best way.

Attached Image
(Photo A)
The main thing is that there should be one, maximum two flowers in the frame. If there are three, four or even more, the balance is broken, you get just a jumble of flowers, not a composition. On the other hand, if you place buds in a frame, this will only emphasize the role of the main flower in the picture (Photo A).


Attached Image
(Photo B).
The best time to shoot is usually a cloudy day, or an early evening. The light is dim, soft and beautiful, so it is best suited. At the same time, particularly good photos are obtained on gloomy days after rain. The raindrops left on the petals will serve as a great accent and allow you to bring a sense of freshness and juiciness into the picture (Photo B).

Reception number 2
It is very important to control the background of the picture by the skillful use of the aperture.

Attached Image

In the pictures of flowers a very important factor is the background. If it is motley and bright, the beauty of the flower that you want to capture will fade. It is therefore very important to use the settings of the aperture and level the background.
To do this, set up the camera for shooting with automatic exposure priority and a more open aperture, thereby removing the depth from the future image and making the background blurred. Just in case, try to take a few pictures, changing the aperture. In the photo C in the background there are also roses, so the background is made blurry, and the main flower of the composition stands out clearly on it.
The photo should look natural, so even on a blurry background, colors should be preserved. Pay attention to the color combination. Usually, if you select the background color in contrast with the main object, it will stand out better. Try to follow the balance of the background and foreground colors, and also choose the angle and direction of shooting at which the beauty of the flower will be most noticeable.

Reception number 3
Try using not only macro, but wide-angle and telephoto lenses.

Attached ImageD Attached ImageEAttached ImageF

In order to show the beauty of the structure of a rose, it is necessary to photograph it at close range, which, in turn, requires a lens for macro photography. It is most convenient for approaching to focus on the very heart of the flower and take a close-up shot of it (Photo D).
However, do not think that shooting colors = macro. With the help of other lenses - wide-angle and tele - you can get very interesting and unusual photos.
Telezum lenses of class 80 ~ 400 mm do an excellent job with the task of leveling the background. They do not allow you to take close-ups of any one detail, but, compared to lenses for macro photography (micro lenses), they provide a more blurred background and a shallower depth of field of the image. Picture E is taken with a 80 ~ 200 mm zoom lens at a value of 200 mm. The grass in the background was very vague; A bright red rose stands out against a beautiful green background.
On the other hand, we also advise you to try shooting from the closest distance with a wide-angle lens. Picture F was taken with a lens with a focal length of 20 mm, but, thanks to the features of wide-angle optics, the volume is perfectly felt, and the rose is bright and clear. In addition, the image is unique and curious deformation of the image of the flower, which is the result of using a wide-angle lens. Micro lenses and zoom lenses do not give the opportunity to do this.

Reception number 4
Photographing with the use of softening filters and scattered sunlight

Attached ImageG Attached ImageH Attached ImageI

In clear weather, the light is very strong, and the pictures are unpleasantly sharp. In these cases it is good to use a softening filter (soft filter). When the G was taken, it was sunny and the contrast was too sharp. Therefore, we softened it using a soft filter (photo H). This filter has several types; we recommend using a weak softening filter. For photo H was applied Nikon Soft Filter №1.
In addition, a good way to photograph not under direct lighting, but when the sun's rays scatter, passing through the foliage of trees. In the picture I we tried to show it. The scattered rays create the necessary shadows and the photo perfectly conveys the atmosphere of the rose garden, nestled among the trees. Again, the play of light and shadow gave the picture spectacularity.

Reception number 5
Try taking photos indoors; use flash

Attached Image

When shooting on the street, we often fail to take a picture with the necessary lighting and on the background we need. If you photograph cut or grown at home flowers, it is possible to do everything in accordance with your plan. In this regard, I would like to talk about the use of flash.
When using fluorescent lamps, objects acquire a greenish tint, the correct color rendering is difficult, but the flash allows you to capture everything almost as if you are seeing with your own eyes. In addition, it is also a plus that when using the flash, shadows appear, and this adds volume to the pictures. True, the built-in flashes give light that comes out at a right angle, and the shadows are difficult to control, in addition, you can get a maximum of 60 cm closer to the subject, for these reasons it is better to use flash units sold separately.
When shooting, first of all, choose a flower of good shape. The minimum distance for cameras with built-in flash is about 60 cm, although it varies depending on the features of the camera model. Using a micro lens allows you to get closer to 30 cm, so we recommend using a remote flash with a TTL cable. Shot J was taken using a flash separate from the camera, located on top and tilted to the left. This allowed us to achieve the correct shadows and make a great shot.

Photo: Director of Nikon Technical Support Center, photo shooting consultant, member of the Japanese Society of Photographers (JPS), Kakimoto Kenji.


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Barlog
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Landscapes

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED FOR PLAYING PLANARS

Wide angle zoom lens
It is convenient to have one wide-angle zoom lens from 24mm, suitable for shooting a variety of objects.

Tripod and cable for remote shutter release
In the morning, or when shooting in cramped conditions, it is sometimes difficult to click the shutter in time. These devices also avoid shaking hands.

Polarizing filter
It is used to take off the blue sky deeply, as well as to capture both the clouds and the general view.

Flash
When shooting before sunrise, the flash may be important for shooting when setting the camera to slow sync. (Foreground light)

Reception number 1

When shooting panoramic landscapes of plateaus, it is necessary to show the effect of different perceptions of near and far objects
Transmitting the display of the feeling of spaciousness on panoramic images of landscapes of the plateaus seems, at first glance, an easy task, however, in fact - this is a very difficult task. There are probably a lot of people who look at the boundless expanse with a chain of mountains in the distance, click on the shutter under the first impression of this panorama, but then, when they look at the resulting photo, they feel that something is missing in the picture. If you just take a picture of the expanse, then there is no special feeling of boundlessness. The secret to successfully displaying the expanse of flatlands is to enhance the sensation of perceiving near and far objects. If close objects are large and distant ones are small, then the latitude and depth of space will be felt in the image. To do this, you need to make the viewing angle wide, for which you should use a wide-angle lens, which has the features of transmitting perspectives, which can enhance the effect of near and far objects, and, in addition, come up with the right composition for the picture.

Attached ImageAttached Image

For example, this method is often used: in the foreground, a flower or something similar is placed - then it will be large, and far in the background - a chain of mountains that will look small (photo A). At the same time, it’s good to get as close to the near object as possible, to combine the near and far objects in focus as much as possible and take a picture with a large depth of field (set the lens to hyperfocal distance). And in the picture (B) in the frame there are two straight lines of bridges, which enhances the distance effect and makes the picture deep.

Reception number 2
Clear and clear remove clouds and sky using polarizing filters.

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When transmitting a sense of freshness and openness to the plateau, blue sky and clouds are an integral part of the picture. Here the main question is how beautiful the blue of the sky and the whiteness of the clouds will be. Our advice is to use a polarizing filter (PL Filter; if you have a camera with auto focus, we recommend using a circular polarizing filter). Thus, the effect of light scattering in the air by water vapor is reduced, the blue sky is obtained in the image with saturated color, and the contrast of the sky and clouds is very beautiful (C).
The exposition is focused on working out the blue sky correctly, but at the same time the earth turns dark and, therefore, it is very important that its outlines look beautiful. A good composition is to put a lot of sky and a little earth in the frame (as a rule, the sky takes two-thirds and the earth takes one-third of the frame). In addition, it must be borne in mind that, because the clouds are constantly floating, constantly changing shape. Therefore, if you want, for example, to take a beautiful picture with a motionlessly frozen tree, you must wait until some cloud, floating above this tree, takes the shape that you like. Sometimes it’s not possible to see such a cloud as we would like, but expecting its appearance is also very pleasant.


Reception number 3
Cleverly show the change in the appearance of the panorama of the plateau depending on the lighting

Attached ImageAttached Image

when shooting landscapes, the impression varies greatly depending on changes in the light. Everything is most clear at dawn. The sky changes color very quickly, and the mood of the landscape changes accordingly. At dawn, the colors of the sky very beautifully go from one to another before sunrise. If you want to photograph this phenomenon - it is important to start taking pictures before the sun appears. If there are some clouds in the sky, they reflect sunlight and it looks very nicely (D).
If there is a sun in the picture, we advise you to take pictures, the year is low and red. If you have a camera with a multi-system for determining light parameters, in most cases it will be possible to take beautiful pictures in automatic mode.
Over time, the sun illuminates a larger area, and with it the outlines of shadows change. In the picture (E), the sun was setting, and the hills cast shadows on the meadow. In the afternoon, when the sun was high, everything was the same green color, merged and looked flat, but towards the evening the sun began to fall, the hills began to cast a shadow, and a voluminous picture was obtained. When shooting such landscapes, light changes become an important element of the composition. If time permits, carefully study at what angle of illumination the subject looks best, and then shoot.

Reception number 4
Flowers, lakes, shores ... technique of shooting various objects

Attached ImageAttached ImageAttached Image

Flowers
From spring to autumn, all kinds of flowers bloom on the plateau. If you find yourself on a plateau, the path of flowers will certainly become one of the objects for your shots. Morning, when fresh, dew fell - the best time to shoot. Selecting the flower you want to photograph, determine - where to take pictures, so that it turns out the most beautiful. Photo (F) taken from a position against the light, leaves and flowers sparkle in the sun, the beauty of the flower stands out in the picture. If you take pictures in the morning, the sun's rays go low, and low plants can be shot against the sun, and therefore you can achieve a similar effect.

Trees
Being on a plateau, I would like to photograph, in particular, beeches, birches, larch. If you were shooting in the woods in the morning when the fog is, you can express in the picture a feeling of the cool air of the plateau. On the other hand, it is also curious to photograph one mossy trunk (G). At the same time, there is a little secret - to give the green color depth, make the exposure a little darkened. If you take pictures with the sight down, this will convey the forest twilight and get a picture "with the atmosphere." Well, if you shoot young greens, on the contrary, it is better to make the exposure a little brighter.

Water
When shooting mountain streams or small rivers, the impression largely depends on the shutter speed. If you make it long, you can show the flow of water (H), if it is short, you can freeze the flow of water and show how the splashes fly. If you are photographing a lake, or a pond - show how the surface of the water reflects the sky, clouds, trees, remove how the ripples diverge.


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How to make the front object is clear, and all that is behind is blurry?

1 - need a camera with a large physical size of the matrix.
2 - Aperture 2.0. 1.4 is even better.
3 - a large focal length (but you have to move far away from the subject).
4 - well, and kraynyak - Photoshop: D

DOF (depth of sharply depicted space, or depth of field) is a term referring to a photograph, denoting the distance between the near and far boundaries of space, measured along the optical axis, while being within which objects are in focus (in the picture are quite sharp).
Attached Image
DOF is a non-strictly mathematical concept, since the focusing plane is always the same. Any point on any other plane in space will be displayed as an unsharp blur. The larger the diameter of such a spot, the shorter the object. It is believed that if the blur spot is less than 0.1 mm when viewing an image from a distance of 25 cm, the human eye perceives it as sharp.

The depth of the sharply depicted space is influenced by the value of the set aperture, the focal length of the lens, the format of the film (or the size of the photosensitive matrix) and the distance to the object of focus (shooting).

For large apertures (F / 1.4, F / 2 for example), the depth of field will be less. At smaller values ​​(for example, F / 11, F / 16), respectively, more. With the same aperture values, the depth of field will be greater for a lens with a shorter focal length (wide-angle lens). A smaller film format (smaller matrix size) gives a greater depth of field. And finally, the greater the distance to the subject, the greater the depth of field.
Source link

Another method of blurring everything around is to move the lens behind a moving object.

Attached Image
Blur on the sensitivity of the film (ISO) does not depend. In bright light it is better to set the sensitivity less. This way you achieve better color rendering and significantly reduce noise, which looks like a grain of the image in the picture.


Post has been editedkochrob - 13.05.07, 17:36


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Sport(And not only, any object in the active movement of society: blink :)

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED FOR SHOOTING

Telezum lens
If you are photographing children playing football or baseball, or shooting other similar sporting events, you will have enough 300 mm lens. The best lenses for this purpose are with the function of suppressing the effect of hand shake, for example AF VR 80-400 mm. If you are shooting a big event, you need a lens of more than 300 mm. When shooting indoors, it is good to have a lens with a large aperture.

Tripod or monopod

Needed to prevent negative effects (unsharpness) arising from shaking hands. Installing a tripod on a spectator's seat is difficult, so you can use a small monopod.

Film

Since the shooting will be done with a high shutter speed (slow shutter speed), use a photographic film with a sensitivity of ISO 400. Indoors may need a film with ISO1600. Stock up with enough film


Reception number 1First of all, learn the rules of the competition (or the plan of the event), learn to understand them

Attached Image

First of all, before embarking on sports photography, you need to learn the rules, learn to understand the game and the movements of athletes. Otherwise, you will not know which moment of the game is interesting for shooting, when you can expect it.
If the rules and the course of the game are known to you, then you will understand that, let's say, in baseball, you need to carefully monitor how the outfielders return the ball to the “house”, and in football - for a tense game in the penalty area. Then you will learn to anticipate when acute situations can arise, and to gather in anticipation of key moments. And you do not miss them.
Photo A is taken of a runner caught in a “house”. When the runner was at second base, the batter hit the ball in front of the liftfielder, and, foreseeing that there would be a cross-play at the “house” (risky game: either safe or out), the photographer pointed the camera at the “house” and when the ball flew there, he clicked shutter. It is the knowledge of the mechanism of the game, its rules, allowed to capture this moment.
Thus, without having a clear idea of ​​what kind of snapshot you want to take, and how you want to take it, you cannot make good sports photos. You will just click the shutter, trying in vain to catch a cool moment.

Reception number 2
The key to a great shot is choosing the right position.
In shooting sports is extremely important chosen position. It can be said that if you cannot take pictures from a good place, you cannot take good pictures. The choice of this place is different for different types of competitions, but there is a basic rule - to try to shoot from a position from which the faces of the athletes are visible. You can watch the competition from different angles later on the video.

Attached ImageAT Attached ImageWITH Attached ImageD

For example, in football, photographers shoot goals on the side of the gate, because it makes it possible to capture the expression on the face of an athlete. In the photo, the boy punches a penalty, and due to the fact that the camera is located in front and to the right, I managed to take a picture of his face at the moment of hitting the ball.
In baseball and softball it is best to photograph from the seats near first base. In addition to seeing the face of the right hitter, you can also take a picture of the pitcher's face (if he is right-handed) when he finishes serving (photo C). When the running (runner) is located in the third base, then if you take a picture a little to the side of the home base, you can take a picture of the striker so that both the runner and the defender of the third base (photo D) are visible.

Reception number 3
Shutter-priority shooting is a basic rule. We also recommend to try shooting with wiring.
Most often when shooting sports events choose the exposure mode "priority exposure". A dwell of less than 1/250 s is required. When photographing a baseball game, in order to “stop” the ball, an exposure of 1 / 500-1 / 1000 s is necessary.

Attached ImageE Attached ImageF Attached ImageG

When shooting outdoors in clear weather, an ISO 100 film is sufficient, but in cloudy and rainy weather you will need a film with a photosensitivity of 400. When shooting in a gym or other room, a film with high photosensitivity is needed, about 1600 units (Photo E).
When you are more or less comfortable, you will probably want to try soy forces in shooting with a long exposure time (the so-called "sliding shooting"). With a high speed of clicking the shutter, as, for example, in photo F, both the person and the background freeze, do not move (the exposure time is 1/250). On the other hand, with the “follow-up shot”, illustrated in the G picture, the background is blurred, which adds a sense of dynamics (the exposure time is 1/30).
During the "follow-up" make the camera on a tripod move only in the horizontal plane. Focus on the subject and take pictures while watching him with the camera.

Reception number 4
Separate the use of different types of focus
When photographing football, volleyball, athletics and the like, where the distance between the photographer and the subject often changes, it is better to switch to continuous autofocus mode [C]. In [s] mode (single focus), the focus is set on the subject and fixed at this distance, while continuous autofocus allows you to move with the subject, keeping the focus on it. This allows you to focus solely on catching the right moment.

Attached Image

I would like to draw your attention to one thing: focus not on the ball, but on people. Watching the players through the camera lens, you can capture the moment of reception of the ball, or the moment of impact (photo H

Attached Image

When you photograph a pitcher or kicker in a baseball or softball match, or a goalkeeper in football, the distance to them remains virtually unchanged, so you can choose to focus on one point. Set the camera to autofocus [M] (Manual) and wait for the right moment (Photo I).

And with continuous autofocus, and when focusing on one point, the trick is to keep both eyes open. One you look in the viewfinder, the other - on top of the camera to the scene. So you do not miss anything important.

Reception number 5
In order not to miss the decisive moment, you need to know exactly when to click the shutter

Attached ImageJ Attached ImageK

In sports it is very difficult not to miss the decisive moment. For example, in ball games (see Photo J) it is important that the ball be in the center of the frame, but it’s incredibly difficult to keep track of the camera.
A big problem is the holding time. There is a small time period between the moment you press the button and the click of the shutter. And when you need incredible accuracy in the choice of time for shooting, it is very difficult to take into account this gap, in order to learn this you need to gain a lot of experience.
A good example is in the photo K. The photographer pressed the button when the pitcher sent the ball, but in the photo the ball had already escaped from the hand - the camera was very late. If you click the shutter later than when the pitcher, waving a hand over his head, you will not get a photo with the ball in the frame. The time gap between pressing the button and triggering the shutter is different for different cameras, and the speed with which the pitcher sends the ball is different, so only the experience will help you to guess the right moment!
When shooting, the striker must be photographed at the moment when he starts swinging the bat. The speed of movement of the bits is very high, so it is better to click the shutter as soon as he was about to hit. The fact that the pitcher threw the ball does not necessarily mean that a hit will follow, but it is better to waste a shot than to miss the Moment.
In competitions in running and other competitions at high speeds, it is convenient to use serial shooting. While the sprint is turning, or when scoring a goal combination, use a serial shooting and then select the best shots. It is also good to make a series of shots when your favorite football player is with the ball.
But in games such as baseball and softball, with lightning strikes and throws, even a serial shooting will not help you to keep the ball in the frame. This is a matter of tenths of a second. If you miss that single moment when you need to click the shutter, you will miss the crucial moment. Everything is solved in an instant, so it is better to practice in advance in the ability to accurately select the moment for the shooting.
If you are doing photography sports competitions, then know that only through numerous trials and mistakes can you learn to take good photos. That is why doing this kind of photography is so exciting.

Photo: Nikon Technical Assistance Center, Kuramoti Noria


P.S. Holders of numbers dedicated! : yahoo:

Even among professional photographers, if you get some good photos from a very large number of photos that capture important events, this is a great success.
Therefore, it is very convenient to use digital SLR cameras, such as the D2, D200 or D100. On them you can immediately see the result. Whether you clicked the shutter earlier than necessary, or vice versa - it becomes immediately clear, and this will help you to be more accurate next time. This is not possible in conventional cameras, where in order to see what happened, you need to print photos.


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In my camera, in the center of the frame, the exposure is measured, tell me where to aim in order to get a good frame:

Here are examples of frames:
1. Bird on bright snow. (aim at a bird or snow?)
2. A girl in a bright white dress against a background of black trees. (aim at the girl or the trees?)
3. Shooting the moon. (aim at the moon or sky?)
4. Shooting the sky with white clouds (aiming at the clouds or the sky?)
5. Shooting a landscape with a very bright sky and very dim and dark ground.
6. Shooting brilliant teapots.


Where to aim and whether it is necessary to manually adjust the exposure?

Added @ 17.01.2006, 15:42

Regarding the aiming, you can aim at the subject, measure the exposure and then shift the frame painlessly.

But where to aim, when a high contrast, I can not understand. Although on the camera put a fotik, but pride does not allow.
Barlog @ 01/17/06 6:01:32 PM
Everything is very simple, if a dark object on a light background and it is necessary that the battle turned out all .... That exposure is measured by the brightest object, and the dark is illuminated by a flash ..

In practice, the following

Paragraph 1
Worth (lies ) a girl in the snow, And the girl is beautiful and the snow is also inappropriate ...
1. We measure the distance to the object (for example, 3 meters)
2. With the help of a “calculator”, we calculate the required aperture at a distance of 3 meters (the scale is such, the sensitivity of the film (matrix), the aperture is on the back of the flash ........
3. We measure in the snow
4. Compiled frame
5. Remove ...

Item 2, 6

Of course in the girl
plus an exposure correction of +2 or selecting the place ...
The trees still do not have to turn out dramatically because this is the background, if the background is sharp then the girl is lost ....

Point 3.

Of course he is aiming at the moon, you can't do without a tripod ....... (did you already buy a lens for yourself?)
And remember, the moon is moving .....


Point 4.
Turn on central weighted metering and aim for the whole ....

Item 5.

Choose what is more important ..... or two frames make it on the top and bottom then merge ......
In general, when shooting landscapes use the formula 2 to 1. 2 thirds of the frame of the sky or vice versa .... well, plus exposure compensation .....


Post has been editedkochrob - 13.05.07, 18:55


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Photos need to somehow be stored, make digital albums of them, say, on CD, slideshow or something else.
Vadych @ 01/27/06 00:00:45
To create beautiful video files from photos - 3D Album
Vadych, 01/27/06 1:46:49 PM
ЗD Album can be found in the donkey
CD1 (ed2k: // | file | 3D.Album.Commercial.Suite.V3.0.CD1-TDA.ShareReactor.iso | 549693440 | C4CD095DEC1EBF235B644C10231C4C51 | /)
CD2 (ed2k: // | file | 3D.Album.Commercial.Suite.V3.0.CD2-TDA.ShareReactor.bin | 27144432 | D3F75EE6761C1CD408728E6CC8AECDA8 | /)
keygen (ed2k: // | file | keygen_3D-Album_Commercial_Suite_v3_0.zip | 4104 | 4677DE9722E8F4334187D84B806468ED | /)

Vadych @ 01/27/06 00:00:45
Put sound on this case - SmartSound

Fazan @ 01/26/06 11:38:30 PM
I use the program Sony Vegas. The technology is extremely simple. Choose the right pictures, choose the music, and you're done. Managing basic functions is extremely simple.

PACTAMAH @ 27.01.06 00:14:33
For simple slideshows, I like ProShow Gold.

StasMan @ 01/27/06 09:48:38
And I have only two tools: cam2pc and Photoshop ...

StasMan @ 01/27/06 09:48:38
And for a video slide there is Adobe Premier.


Post has been editedkochrob - 15.05.07, 23:12


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Each Good lens has antireflection coatings, the presence of enlightenment is easily checked, if you look at the lens in the light, then in the presence of enlightenment it will glow blue or yellow or greenish bude ..... in general will be color cast ..

It is strictly forbidden to use detergents, alcohol-containing agents, coarse cloth ... etc.

It is necessary to buy in a photo shop, a special brush with a pear with air supply, and a set of disposable napkins for photo optics .... Magazine better to choose a specialist in the sale of photo products such as NIKON ......: D

In traveling conditions, a real cotton wool without a domain, and if it does not rock, saliva (without food debris, and bleeding gums: D) ......

Always initially try to clean the air, well, if it did not help then, see above ....
In general, if the expensive optics is better to take to a specialized service .....


And therefore, proceeding from the above, napkins for otchkov not suitable .... WHY?

EVERYTHING IS SIMPLY, THE GLASSES DO NOT HAVE AN ENJOYMENTING LAYER, as each person has it in the eyes ...) and accordingly there is no guarantee that they will not wash away the layer of enlightenment: blink :)

The same applies to napkins of 10 eagles in trains ....
Each time the layer of enlightenment will be less, less, until you rub yourself on the optics of the "Glade" ... ....: D

fox @ 08.27.06 19:17:37


Post has been editedkochrob - 05.05.07, 14:26


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Winter landscapes

Cold winter - there are neither greenery nor flowers around, and this is not suitable for photographing ... Perhaps, many people think that way. However, many people love to take pictures in the winter, enjoying the beauty of the clear air. Snow, ice - there are a huge number of interesting objects and phenomena for shooting. We will try not to miss the opportunity to make beautiful pictures of the beauties of nature, which can only be seen in winter.

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED FOR SHOOTING

Tripod and cable (cable) for remote control - Needed to prevent the negative effect of blurring pictures due to hand shake.

Batteries - Stock up on two sets. When shooting in the cold, we recommend using powerful lithium batteries.

Protective che-hol for the lens - Prevents the ingress of snow on the lens.

Case, scarf or towel to protect the camera - Needed in order to keep the camera warm

When shooting winter landscapes, you must protect the camera from the cold. In the cold, the batteries are quickly discharged, so please stock up with 2 sets of batteries (best of all, lithium batteries that are resistant to low temperatures). Even if there is no snowfall, it is better to be safe than to underestimate the danger. While moving, or waiting for the moment to shoot with a camera on a tripod, it will be better to protect the camera from the cold, with a scarf, towel or cover.
When shooting during a snowfall, it is important that snow does not hit the camera. In this case, it is convenient to use a rubber cover. It will serve as an excellent protection from moisture, and also help to preserve heat. But instead of it, a scarf or a towel will do. In addition, you must avoid getting snowflakes on the lens. When changing the lens, be careful that snow does not fall inside the lens and body.


Reception number 1

Look for landscapes that can be made exclusively in the winter when the air is clear and clean
Most likely, many people find it too difficult to get out on the street for taking pictures with the onset of cold weather, but in fact, winter is an ideal time for taking photographs. If only because at this time of the year the air is clean and transparent, and you can take clear and beautiful photos. Compared to other seasons, in winter there are very few flowers and greenery, but there are many other, unique objects for shooting. Be sure to get outside on a sunny winter day and take pictures. And we will introduce you to interesting objects for shooting and technical subtleties.

Attached ImageBUT Attached ImageAT

Take a picture of the trees from which all the leaves have fallen, show the beauty of their structure.
Sure, you can find them. For example, in a park near you. The trees are bare, all the leaves have fallen; This is a very good subject for shooting. Take a look at the tree through the viewfinder - for sure you will find a beautiful or interesting trunk bend or a pattern of branches that could not be seen when the leaves had not yet flown around.
In Photo A, the alley of plane trees in the Imperial Garden in the Shinjuku area, the clear air and blue sky allowed us to create a beautiful landscape shot of winter nature. Such beauty is rarely found in the city center. The technique of shooting was as follows: the trees were photographed with a wide-angle lens, from bottom to top to emphasize their height, the f-number increased, thereby expanding the edges of the sharp image — both the background and the foreground were in focus.

Take pictures with long shadows that the trees cast in the light of the winter sun.

Another great subject for shooting is the long shadows that appear in the light of the low winter sun. If you skillfully build a composition, you will be able to show soft light from the low winter Sun. Photo B shows the long shadows that trees cast in the snow. Of course, the main role in the composition is played by shadows, so little is given to trees and shadows are a lot of space in the frame and this allows you to enhance the effect, and in addition, the wide-angle camera lens was directed slightly down, which allowed us to convey a sense of distance in the picture.
To make the shadows appear as living, you can make a small negative exposure correction. However, if you are photographing shadows in the snow in the same way as in the above example, then excessive correction can cause the snow to lose its whiteness, so be careful. In photo B, the exposure compensation is -0.7 EV, but generally speaking, it’s difficult to choose the exact amount of compensation, so we recommend that you take a few frames, gradually changing the value of the correction (use exposure bracketing).

Attached Image

F100; AF 24-120mm F / 3.5-5.6D
F8; Auto
Species that allow you to truly feel the winter.
Persimmon, maize, daikon and other similar flora growing near the houses dried up, but here’s a landscape that you can’t see except in winter: Photo C. If you place such characteristic objects in a frame, you can create an atmosphere in a frame plunging us into the winter. Photographing wild birds that came to such a place is a good idea, but in order to shoot them in close-up, you need a telephoto lens of about 400-600 mm.

Attached Image

F100; AF20 mm F / 2.8D
F16; Auto
Exposure compensation +0.7 EV

In pictures with ice and frost, it is important to skillfully use the lighting.
You can take great pictures if you take a picture of how ice (or hoarfrost) sparkles in the sun. Naturally, the indispensable condition is sunny weather. Photo D captures how icicles, photographed under backlit lighting, sparkle and shimmer.

Attached Image

F5; AF80-200 mm F / 2.8D
F5.6; Auto
Exposure compensation -0.7 EV
Atofuke

Frost can be seen in the morning near rivers, water bodies and other places with high humidity on the branches of trees and grass, but when the sun rises, the temperature rises and it melts, so it’s better to shoot before 9 am.
Against a white sky, the frost will be hardly noticeable, so choose a shady area or any dark objects, or a bright blue sky as a background, and, moreover, it is better to photograph when backlit or close to it, then the beauty of frost will be much brighter and more noticeable (Photo E).

Reception number 2
Photos of snowfall are different depending on the duration of exposure.
One of the most characteristic winter landscapes is, of course, snowfall. A snow-white landscape, when everything is white and white all around - a spectacle of particular beauty. A good exposure correction will help to show the snow-white sparkle. Otherwise, if there is insufficient exposure, the snow can get dull.

Attached ImageF Attached ImageG

When shooting snowfall, it is important to decide which shot you want to take, depending on this, choose the shutter speed. If it is small - 1 / 125s or 1 / 250s, then this will remove the flying snow flakes in motionlessness (photo F). On the other hand, if you want to capture the movement of snowflakes in the form of white threads, you need to increase the shutter speed to 1 / 30s or 1 / 15s (photo G). However, if the shutter speed is too long, then there will be no traces of movement in the picture, so be careful. In addition, if you use a flash when shooting, then the snowflakes close to the camera will become brighter and your snowfall photo will turn out even more spectacular.
When it snows and you take pictures, please be careful and, as we have already indicated above (in the “Quick Reference” section), make sure that the snow does not get inside the camera body and on the lens

Reception number 3
Try to capture color changes depending on the time of day.
You can create photos with different moods depending on changes in the landscape lighting. The clear winter air makes it very beautiful to photograph this Light. If you want to capture the snowy landscape, then show how the snow is painted in one or another color in accordance with changes in natural lighting. In the morning and in the evening it changes quickly, it will be interesting enough to take a series of shots with different lighting, on the spot.

Attached ImageH Attached ImageI Attached ImageJ

In pictures H, I, J - early morning, 30 minutes, 10 minutes before sunrise and the photo taken immediately after sunrise. The sky, the clouds and the surface of the lake are made of pale purple orange-chewing, and, despite the fact that all the photographs have the same landscape, it produces a different impression. In the picture H, a car moving along the road along the edge of the lake was used as an accent, the headlights of which turned into two bright lines.
Similar lighting changes can be observed at sunset and sunrise, starting from 30 minutes before and ending 15 minutes after.

Reception number 4
Pictures will greatly benefit from what you put in a frame of white swans
And finally, a little about the photos with the envoys of winter - white swans. In Japan, many lakes and rivers, where these birds fly; they can be fed, and then you can take a picture of swans from close range, without the help of a telephoto lens.

Attached ImageK Attached ImageL

However, it is not very interesting to take just photos of swans from close range, so it’s good to add some object to the composition. For example, as in photo K, take a picture on the background of snow-capped mountains. Photo L is made in the rays of the rising sun, steam rises from the water, and this picture resembles a picture of our dreams.
There are places where feeding swans and other waterfowl is prohibited. Please take pictures, following the rules.

Photo: Nikon Technical Support Center, photo consultant; Member of the Japan Association of Photographers Haga Kenji.


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I am looking for a brush with scratches. I can not find anywhere. Please who has this, put it here. Thank you in advance.
sshick ™ @ 02.18.06 11:31:28

Jxl_yArick @ 05/27/06 11:43:26
If you need to make a photo "antique" with a pile of scratches and other "garbage", and so that it looks individually (agree that there are different scratches on all photos), use some photo where there are a lot of small details (for example , photo of scaffolding), select the logs, select them, set the transparency level, etc., remove the photo and put it on top of the edited photo

Didex @ 05/27/06 1:07:46
Simple and ingenuous - we take a brush and draw on a black background many lines with sharp and not very edges. Then we apply Filter - Distort - Glass with the necessary parameter. We put the mix on a soft light. Set transparency.


Post has been editedkochrob - 13.05.07, 17:47


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That's all they write how to shoot. I think it will be more useful for a beginner to learn how to shoot is not necessary.
It's always easier to remember what to do, right?
As I often see on the street, many of these simple rules do not know.

It is not necessary to build the removed people by the ladder of fools against the background of monuments or buildings. It went, boring and ridiculous. It is better to remove the building separately, if it is beautiful, and then at the maximum open aperture of your friends, standing in uncomplicated positions and not in a line, let the building be slightly blurred at the very edge of the frame. Two pictures are better than one and it is clear where everyone is.

Do not tilt the machine when taking pictures of buildings. The optical axis of the lens must be strictly parallel to the ground, otherwise the walls of the building will be curved.

Do not shoot a man against the sky. Many people like to climb on the mega-stone in the Crimea, and take pictures of them from below. First, it went, and secondly, the face will be dark, the soap box usually does not correctly put the shutter speed in this case. It is better to remove the process of conquering this peak. And not from the back, but from the side, and against the sky, but the sky should be a little bit.

Do not remove the lying girl, standing at her feet. Flippers size 56 do not decorate anyone. The closer the object is to the device, the larger it looks. The eye does not notice this, and the camera emphasizes. Use the zoom, in extreme cases, or shoot from the side, so that the head and legs are at an equal distance from you.
By the way, the zoom may also be out of place. See what happens if you shoot a person from above with a zoom equivalent to 189 mm for a 35 mm film. The prospect disappears and it seems that the girl has fallen under the rink ...
Attached Image


You should not shoot people on the background of shabby walls with obscene inscriptions, garbage cans, landfills, pillars and other things. The tree growing out of the head is a typical mistake; they didn’t see what was behind the photograph being taken from behind.

Do not shoot against the sun, light the frame. The sun should be at the side of the photographer.
Portrait should not be removed, if the Sun is in the zenith or behind the photographer, there will be sharp shadows on the face, it is better to let the person become in the shadow.

Do not remove with a flash if a person is standing near a mirror, a polished cabinet, etc. If you have nowhere to go, stand at an angle to the shiny surface so that the reflected light does not hit the lens.

Built-in flash can not illuminate the wall with graffiti and your friends, standing 20 meters away from you in the dark. Shoot with a flash from a distance of 3 meters.

Practice pressing the trigger so that the machine does not jump up and down. Lean on something or hang up. Trembling hands spoiled so many pictures ...

New now vulgar trend - to shoot waterfalls with an exposure of 1 second. Gentlemen, this looks unnatural, therefore disgusting. Never do that.
Photo for example: sperm instead of water
Attached Image


Barlog @ 06/07/06 9:54:06
Hooray finally appeared with like-minded people, I already despair.

I want with your permission to supplement your article ..

You write ...
Do not shoot a man against the sky. Many people like to climb on the mega-stone in the Crimea, and take pictures of them from below. First, it went, and secondly, the face will be dark, the soap box usually does not correctly put the shutter speed in this case. It is better to remove the process of conquering this peak. And not from the back, but from the side, and against the sky, but the sky should be a little bit.

Do not shoot against the sun, light the frame. The sun should be at the side of the photographer.
Portrait should not be removed, if the Sun is in the zenith or behind the photographer, there will be sharp shadows on the face, it is better to let the person become in the shadow.

On the contrary, it is possible and necessary to shoot in contact lighting, but with one condition it is necessary to flash the front background with a flash before putting the lens hood on the lens beforehand or asking for a shadow on the lens, such as a hand, magazine, women's swimsuit ... and then everything is ok.

You write
You should not shoot people on the background of shabby walls with obscene inscriptions, garbage cans, landfills, pillars and other things. The tree growing out of the head is a typical mistake; they didn’t see what was behind the photograph being taken from behind.

It is just necessary to open the aperture to the maximum (set a minimum value of 1.2 to 2.0) and then the shabby buildings will go into blur and an interesting texture will appear and the unprofitable inscriptions will become cool color shades.

You write
Practice pressing the trigger so that the machine does not jump up and down. Lean on something or hang up. Trembling hands spoiled so many pictures ...

You can simply set the shutter speed to a larger value, such as 1/250 or 1/500, and everything will be ok even during pitching.

I want to make a reservation to the happy owners of soap cases (even for 1000 tanks), you can not worry, you can only control all modes with the built-in program ... and you cannot influence it.

Dr.Pavlov @ 06/08/06 3:07:19 PM
I also wanted to add - do not use the flash, removing the snow or rain. The whole picture will be in white spots from light reflected by chunks of water.


Miocker @ 07/01/06 20:11:33
Here, I found tips, using which you can get true "masterpieces" of interest to everyone.
(This is bad advice, it is necessary to emphasize this fact. commented on Dr.Pavlov)

1. All the evils of knowledge. Never read books on photocomposition, do not go to exhibitions and do not look through photo magazines. Otherwise, you are doomed to look at the world with other people's eyes. Do not strangle your originality by throwing the lashes of other artistic criteria on it, you’ll reach everything based on your photographic experience. Remember: "The Chukchi is not a reader, the Chukchi is a writer!"

2. The main tool of the photographer is the camera. Most venerable photographers with arrogance and neglect relate to compact cameras, the so-called "soap dishes". Meanwhile, they have a number of undeniable advantages. What is the use of buying an expensive DSLR from Canon or Nikon with branded interchangeable optics, if immediately after that you erase your legs in search of some kind of soft filter or all night you will construct a monocle from spectacle glasses to get rid of the deadly sharpness of the picture. But it’s enough to buy a “soap box”, how to solve all these problems by themselves.
Preference should be given, of course, to cameras with modern plastic lenses installed at hyperfocal distance (that is, not requiring sharp focus).

3. In stores for big money, special pears are sold to blow away dirt from the front lens of the lens. But such devices do not cause anything but a smile to our amateur photographer. It is much more convenient to blow off the dust from the lens with a “mouth”, and wipe the dirt with a sleeve slightly dampened, I apologize, with saliva.

4. Do not break your head in search of topics for pictures. “I am on the background of the monument”, “My family is on the background of the dacha”, “My child is eating porridge”, “My cat has climbed onto the sofa” - this is a list of time-tested plots that will undoubtedly always be interesting to a wide audience of viewers.

5. Use the camera's built-in flash frequently. She very well illuminates the face of the person being filmed and (if lucky) makes the pupils of his eyes intriguingly red. If you somehow beat it, for example, dress him in red clothes, then success is guaranteed.

6. When photographing with a flash, try pressing the shutter release at the moment the person you are shooting is blinking. Of course, it is not easy. Requires lightning reaction. But if you persist, luck will come to you more and more often.

7. When shooting a portrait in a room, it is necessary to include as many objects as possible in the frame. Parquet, chandelier, wall, new curtains, carpet, sofa, etc. This will make the snapshot more specific and believable.

8. Take portraits wide angle. In any book it is written that it enhances the feeling of the depth of space.

9. When shooting portraits on the street, it is advisable to move away so that the whole person fits in the frame. Leave more space around the edges so that the people around you are captured in the picture. They will undoubtedly decorate the frame, especially large nape in the foreground are especially good. So that the portrait person does not get lost in the crowd, his head should be placed exactly in the middle of the frame - this will emphasize the verified composition of your picture. The best pose for the portrait is the legs shoulder-width apart, arms pressed, facing the camera, eyes bulging.

10. Many do not even know how important it is for the viewer to know the exact date of the shooting of a particular plot. Some modern cameras give you the ability to type the current date directly into the negative. Be sure to use this feature in all types of shooting. The only thing to be regretted is that the date appears somewhere on the side of the picture, and not right in the center of the frame. But there's nothing you can do about it - a flaw in the manufacturers of photographic equipment.

11. If you have a horizon line in the frame, place it directly in the middle. In extreme cases - at a small angle to the edge of the frame. Let the littered horizon be your piece (in the sense of a firm trick), according to which the viewer will unmistakably determine your authorship.

12. Operate automatic cameras in backlight without exposure compensation. A smart algorithm embedded in the electronic brains of your camera will do all the necessary calculations for you.

13. When shooting a person or group on the beach, be sure to place them in such a way as not to make you squint from the bright rays of the sun, that is, your back to the sun. The sun, the subject and you must be on the same line. And in any case, do not turn on the fill flash at this moment!

14. Never focus on the object that you are shooting. This habit is nothing but a manifestation of the psychological inertia of thinking. Pictures on which, for example, the blurred face of your girlfriend is projected on a sharp wallpaper look much more interesting. Be at least in this original.

15. Tripod - an extra burden for any photographer. Remember that the best sharpness is achieved when shooting offhand in motion. It is desirable to hold the camera with one hand.

16. In no case and never make duplicates - a true masterpiece is always born impromptu !!!

TAKE IT OUT!


Post has been editedDr.Pavlov - 06.03.11, 20:49


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Colorization of black and white photos
Okushok @ 03/27/06 11:49:39 PM
Friends, help please help make a color old picture.

Okushok @ 03/28/06 01:34:56
Give a link to some lesson online.

Miocker @ 03/28/06 3:10:16 PM

StasMan @ 03/28/06 3:14:18 PM

StasMan @ 03/28/06 3:14:18 PM

Can someone come in handy recolored101.rar ->Recolored (Full, working version, without restrictions, installation is not required);)

Attached files

Attached filerecolored101.rar(5.69 MB)


Post has been editedkochrob - 14.05.07, 00:36


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Here I found an interesting little thing.
The program for calculating the depth of field (Flash).
Calculation in many ways. Very user friendly interface.
Posted by: Vladimir Rodionov ([email protected])
Resource
I spread the file, test ...

Attached files

Attached filerezk.zip(15.37 KB)


Post has been editedkochrob - 01.05.07, 01:12


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21.08.06, 20:57
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Photo printing 30 * 40 cm
I wanted to make prints of 30 * 40 cm in size so that it could be framed and on the wall, but I don’t know if the resolution is enough for 3500 * 2624 pixels, that is, if the photo is clear enough. Connoisseurs of digital photography, I ask for your help! =)
Miocker @ 08.21.06 21:21:59
If purely mathematically: printing 300 dots per inch, then 3500/300 * 2.5 = 29 and 2624/300 * 2.5 = 22 we get the maximum photo somewhere 29x22


Post has been editedkochrob - 12.05.07, 16:46


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viewing RAW on a PDA
I researched this question and in addition to PocketPhojo, PocketLoupe did not find anything. Also Resco Photo Viewer reads some kind of RAW (see: _http://www.resco.net/pocketpc/photoviewer/indepth.asp).More, to my knowledge, there is nothing.

Resco Photo Viewer
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Post has been editedkochrob - 05.05.07, 14:18


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program for wholesale reduction of photos
Seklth @ 11.02.07 00:00:54

Swoboda @ 11.02.07 01:06:07

Balansse @ 03/06/07 02:17:55
Vista herself can do it 
Simply choose a bunch of pictures, click "Send by mail" and immediately pops up a window asking what resolution to compress them all and how much they will weigh after compression.


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The remote control code from Nikon D50, 70, 80 for the Neuro Remote.
D50,70,80
Ivanko74 @ 06.02.07 07:43:04
The archive also contains a file in which the hexadecimal codes for the Nikon remote ML-L3 live.
I tried to control Nikon D70 with Nokia 3230 and from HP 2490 package.
Super. True key to the symbian version of noviiremote has not yet found.NoviiNikon


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And who is protected from the rain, eh?

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