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ToSh93
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FAQ | Efficiency of games on teXet TM-7025 | Description | Accessories | Firmware |

���� ��� Boxchip A 10 download

| Owners Club teXet TM-7025


Upgrade Tablets onBoxchip A10


This topic is devoted to all sorts of bullying tablets and their components. Not necessarily with a positive result;)


[size = 3]Attention! In connection with the relocation of the topic in the sectionTehnotrepalka, the rules are changing!
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[/ size]


[size = 2]
useful links
Warehouse links (see, which can come in handy)

Explay Informer 702

A simple way to get rid of the glitches of the tach when charging fromsindicat47
Surely everyone is furious that the touch is buggy when charging, but someone really does not want to disassemble the tablet, glue something or even lose the warranty ..
THERE IS MEGA A SIMPLE GREAT SUPER SOLUTION TO THE PROBLEM!
Further instructions on the photos, everything is simple ..
Pros:
Faster charging
Not buggy touch
Minuses:
The inability to use the OTG cable when charging.

Attached ImageAttached Image
Attached ImageAttached Image


FAQ of the Inventor (not completed)

Tools and parsing order teXet TM-7025
We will need:
1) Tablet.
2) Thin plastic card or stationery knife.
3) Phillips screwdriver.
4) Patience, because the process is simple, but for those who cherish the integrity of the body a little nervous.
Getting Started. Under the display is better to put at least a sheet of paper, so as not to scratch.
;)

[size = 2]
List of works

[color = "# 000000"] I'm trying to improve the teXet TM-7025 tablet.
In the final (or almost final) version, everything looks like this:
Attached Image
Attached Image

Attached Image
Attached Image

Attached Image

Total:
3 batteries with a total capacity of 8300 mA.
2 speakers from the netbook, single-channel sound.


User [/ color]the-h1 offers the following modification options teXet TM-7025
There are some suggestions for upgrading this tablet.

1. Naturally the battery, but then it is better to mount it on epoxy, followed by grinding and painting. Looking at the photos of the disassembled think: if you turn the battery in a plane under 90 gr. and put another one next? It will be great if it fits, but not so standard BL-5C Nokiev batteries are excellent on voltage, compact and the capacity is about 1000 m.
2. There is an idea to collect the similarity of a docking station in a case. To do this, you need to test the tablet with a USB hub in more detail, as in different reviews say differently, for example:
http://human-oid.livejournal.com/160786.html.
3. If the hub is working normally, then it is possible to build a 3g modem, which is good news.

Wi-Fi signal enhancement
[attachment = "2232895: 2231378.jpg"]Attached Image

When the Wi-Fi wire touches the battery and / or the silver panel (screen), it catches one stick worse. So what is the point in this. At the same time I decided to close up better (by the way, he made paper tape, he didn’t seem to have any current). I'd add that you can use electrical tape.

Insulation
About a glitch with a touch: it seems there is again a jamb with a battery (the magnets in the case have nothing to do with it). When you press on the screen (while it starts to touch the battery), it startsechinea . Naturally, when you touch the back cover of the tablet, the glitch disappears (for the hand is a conductor). I'll try to isolate something ..
Attached Image

First, of course, I opened the tablet. Gently pushing the ruler under the battery. Then he wrapped it with tape, like a mummy, and put it back.
The result of the experiment: doubtful. Touch stopped blunt when charging. But if you strongly (!) Press on the screen, it begins ... Eh, and I have already begun to rejoice ..
But I did not calm down, for the Korean blood in me. He unscrewed the motherboard and sealed it to hell with tape, especially where the charge is located. I thought that the connector is to blame (concerns the screen). But here, miss. But I noticed that the touchscreen has become more accurate, because now I can get into small interface elements.Win.

Conclusion: I am inclined to think that a mad touch when charging is manifested due to a low-quality adapter

I spread my adapter from the wire and the piece from the motherboard. 2-3 days did. This is my first job.
Attached ImageAttached Image
Attached ImageAttached Image
Attached ImageAttached Image
Attached ImageAttached Image
Attached ImageAttached Image
Attached ImageAttached Image

If you wrap it completely, then when you press the screen, stains appear, so you covered the tangent part with one layer, and on the touch itself in the place where the battery should be, attached a thin self-adhesive sponge (sold in building and auto shops, cheap) - everything is clear with That, when charging, it is buggy in rare moments, if you do not poke it, but press it.
Attached Image

I would like to share my observations with you.
So, NEVER, even slightly, don’t drop the tablet, because a “curse” of lost bolts is imposed on it, I don’t even know what it is connected to, but the bolts from the microcircuit that hook it to the base disappear somewhere ( even a magnet).

Then, I advise ALL the touch on the back to cover with a thin layer of scotch, in consequence of which increases the accuracy, clarity and smoothness of this, albeit slightly.
As for the battery, isolate and sponge, I said, and I want to add that all this needs to be done as a jewelry job, because otherwise you will have annoying divorces, albeit temporary ones (AddsToSh93 Unfortunately, this is true. Having done the work in haste, I got a dozen circles of divorces, if you press the display a little harder than usual)
I also want to add: carefully isolate the wiring from the battery and wifi so that they do not touch the wheel in any way.
Conclusion: if your hands grow from the right place, then you forget about problems with that.
sindicat47 continues to develop a theme about Wi-Fi.

So, about the spiral, I'm sorry that I could not take a picture inside because the screwdriver broke.
Imagine that “A” is our module, somehow fasten it on the module, then the bottom foil plus the place where it should stand, generally aware of it, it’s better for the unknowing not to tinker. Again, we do everything neatly, so that without divorce. The very essence of the work: as far as I know, copper has a good electrical conductivity, but not a signal, but wifi is nothing more than waves that "pulsate", as it were, the spiral catches these waves and, due to its shape, spreads them better, and foil gives direction to these waves and reflects them from those places where it is not profitable to distribute them .. in general, I tried to explain in plain language.
Attached ImageAttached Image
Attached ImageAttached Image

I was not good at catching wi-fi. I decided to make out, to look at the place of the antenna. The antenna was in the right place, under the plastic insert.

I decided to conduct an experiment. He peeled the antenna from the cover onto the case, previously wrapped it with thin copper wire, and wrapped it around the wire with ordinary aluminum foil. The remaining piece of wire going out from under the foil, wound into an eight-shaped antenna and stuck on an insulated tape cover, also conducted a continuation of this "antenna" to the plastic insert on the cover and made a small 8-shaped mini-antenna, on top of the foil scotch tape. After these uncomplicated Wi-Fi scams, catching has become much better.
looks like this:

Attached ImageAttached Image

Under the foil is copper wire.
Sorry for the quality.
Probably, it was possible to sculpt this wire only on plastic, but I tried to do so - the result is.
Usersindicat47 recommends making not eight of copper, but a spiral, and the result should be about one and a half times higher.
vvDanilvv continues to improve Wi-Fi reception.
After a long search for the best options for improving the quality of reception of Wi-Fi, having tried all the options for performance, he stopped there.
Attached ImageAttached Image

The design is as follows:
Two antennas are connected and directed at each other, wrapped with wire, wrapped with foil on top, and next to the antennas is the continuation of the wire - a coil under which the foil lies, all this is covered with tape. And from the antenna go two wiring passing through the plastic insert on the cover, for better reception quality. Honestly, I don’t know if these wires are needed at all, we need them and better fix them on the inset. How - you decide.

mark99
[/ size]
Max2898

alex07111971




I warn you that before entering any device I will correct your message a little.

Each new device will be listed (preferably with a photo) and the author, of course, too.

I ask for help in filling out the caps - send ideas to me in a personal note with a "cap".

For each of your modifications with a photo report you getAttached ImageAttached Image.

No one bears any responsibility for the fact that for some reason you did not succeed! Most tablet tampering deprives you of the manufacturer’s warranty! Do everything at your own peril and risk!


I would be very pleased to see the user’s signature “Modernization of Tablets forBoxchip A10 " ;)

A big request! All posted photos clean under spoiler!

Posted 11/11/2012, 13:33:

Post has been editedToSh93 - 06.08.13, 21:50
Reason for editing: Minor changes + pipstop
nordok1963
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Comrades who expanded the AAND-based NAND help solve the problem.
That day I torment TAB A73 (analog 7025). I can not connect 2 NAND per hectare. You wrote in the messages that you need to drop the resistors to 10k. If it is not difficult, then indicate what needs to be added, according to the scheme in the appendix.

I have now sealed H27UCG8T2BYR in the case of LGA-52
Glazkow
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Help guys plz. It can of course not in that topic, I apologize in advance. There is a Samsung Galaxy Note N8000 64Gb (China). Onboard is the mother GT900_v3 percent Allwinner A23, Nand flash SKhynix H27UBG8T2CTR, operative H5TQ2G63DFR. There is a place on the board for the second chip operatives. On the screen with an arrow marked. If you solder and hang it, the tablet will see the coveted 512 MB?

http://ipic.su/img/img…s_892kb.1422381536.png

the memory is like that

http://ipic.su/img/img…s_182kb.1422381665.png

this place is so close

http://ipic.su/img/img…s_372kb.1422381736.png

I hope very much for your help.

Post has been editedGlazkow - 28.01.15, 20:52
pskov-igor
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Slightly modified and made the second screen from the device without battery. I throw off the report, the pictures are not very much and there are not many of them, but I will try to describe everything in this way.

Part 1- soldering-internal
First, the device was disassembled and removed ALL the cables (screen, touch and camera), as well as soldered Wi-Fi antenna (for convenience). He unscrewed the board and soldered 2 wires to the charging connector. Here it is worth explaining that my adapter is moving away, but there is no battery in the tablet. So step by step:
1. Solder 2 pins on the connector.-- on the case,+- on the leg behind. You need to carefully solder, because if you don’t work with other contacts (I was)
2. We remake the power adapter to work with this type of connection. To do this, we disconnect 2 wires closer to the connector. Then we cut any of the contacts and call it to the plug. If it corresponds to the external side of the connector - minus, internal - plus. We mark and leave.
3. We conduct contacts to the output of the device through the memory card and speaker (it had to be torn out). Just in case the area of ​​soldering + a memory card to glue with tape.
There was no blue, only black
Attached Image

4. Fixing tape we drive to the exit from the body. The way out was to do this: I looked where there are no lugs on the lid and in that place I soldered the case for the size of wires + the height of the lid side with a soldering iron. Then process the file plastic. Internal partitions destroy as well.
Attached Image

And do not forget about the trains with Wi-Fi.
Attached Image

5. Close everything completely and connect the adapter. We do not forget about the tape, we keep the wiring. I have a red +, white and yellow -.
Attached Image

Attached Image


This is part 1 complete. Now to implement the idea further, turn on the device and connect it to the computer. Power from the outlet through the wire to your computer. We now need to upload there:
The program for working with autoload -Attached fileall-in-one_toolbox_4_4_2.apk(2.73 MB)

Display Program -Attached fileiDisplay + v3.0.1.apk(3.7 MB)

And download for the computer
Drivers -Attached fileDriver.zip(12.82 MB)

Driver installation:
1. If the installation request did not pop up, then go to the device manager - unknown devices - Android - update the driver
2. In the archive folder drivers, search the entire folder.
3. If it does not help, use the instructions from the archive.

Screen program -Attached fileiDisplay_setup (1) .exe(4.17 MB)

The iDisplay program is set as follows:
1. Install
2. Start, the testing mode will start. The device does not poke.
3. The installation of the driver will go, 7ka will swear at the lack of a signature, allow.
4. Reload
5. Connect the tablet in developer mode.
6. Run (if there is no tray) with the icon on the table.
7. On the tablet, click on the button, only a window will appear on the computer - accept the request.


To adjust the screen position: press the right bear in the status bar by the program icon.
What could / could not run:
Opera, 3 tiles only climbed
Foxit read
Photo viewer
Audio player worked buggy (Windows Media)
Standard games of Windows - did not start.

Well, for those who read to the end - I attach my own creation, sketched out 5 minutes by hand. Displays the status of the Internet, date, time. Below is a field for entries (they are not saved when closed) and the IE window on the right. Opens normally mobile versions of Yandex and VK. Especially not to scold, sketched for yourself.
Run like this: Open, a window will appear, drag it onto the tablet. Press the button.
Download -Attached fileProg.exe(24 KB)
sxnarodtup
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How to replace the Boot Logo? Is there any thread like a program logobuilder for MTK67xx? And what section does it contain? Or is it somewhere in the System thread? : blush:
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Sxnarodtup @ 04/07/2015, 18:02*
How to replace the Boot Logo?


Mde. As usual - in response to silence. : D Replaced manually. If there are still Windows drivers who suffer with Linux elementary, a process description under the spoiler:
Made on a computer with Windows XP, only success is guaranteed in it. You will need the tools:Android Image Tool 1.2.3for unpacking and packing Boot Image, a picture viewer for processing and saving your new screensaver (using XnView), and a hex editor for small fitting the image (using Hiew32). On the tablet itself, you need a thread terminal emulator (usedBTEP: download:

so

1. We take from the tablet the image of Bootimg.img (picture in the yom). For this:
1.1 We put on the tablet Root (if it is not yet).
1.2 Put the terminal emulator on the tablet. We look at the configuration of the sections. Bootimg is usually the third, but options are also possible; here it is better to find out in the topic on your tablet. If the third is, then the partition will be named / dev / block / nandc (if enn is, then / dev / block / nand *, where * is the letter of the Latin alphabet with its en number
1.3. Now we take the Boot image from the microSD tablet. To do this, look at what you have called the corresponding directory in the file manager. On my tablet, it was called / mnt / extsd (but it happens that / mnt / sdcard, and even how it all depends on the developers of the tablet’s firmware. Substitute your own version of the command). So, the commands in the terminal itself:
1.3.1 su
1.3.2 cat / dev / block / nandc>/mnt/extsd/bootimg.img
1.4 We are waiting for the completion of copying, after which you can pick up the microSD.

2. On BB, unpack Bootimg.img to your directory (for example, in Boot: AndImgTool.exe Bootimg.img Boot -i)

3. Replace the file with the picture on your own (I was in \ Boot \ Ramdisk \ initlogo.rle). For this:
3.1 Prepare your picture in the screen resolution corresponding to the tablet.
3.2 Save it in RAW format.
If the viewer supports saving to BGRA - save it in it (this is the native format of the initlogo.rle on my tablet, there may be another on your tablet, then you will have to correct it later, try this first). Unfortunately, Xnview for some reason excluded such format from the list of possible ones, so I had to save it in the existing ABGR. Then I simply deleted the first byte from it, and added 0 at the end of the file (XnView saves the entire alpha channel as 0, if the picture is without it, so I ended up with a picture in BGRA interleaved format). Check the size of the file received. It should be equal to the size of the initlogo.rle (Width x Heght x 4). If it matches, you can replace it safely, if not, it means either you did something wrong, or your firmware has pictures in compressed .rle format. Then you can also try to substitute (the bootloader can recognize the compressed images, then everything will work out, but it may not recognize it, then you will see "garbage" on the screen when loading).
3.3 Rename the resulting image to initlogo.rle
3.4 Copy with replacement in \ Boot \ Ramdisk \ initlogo.rle

4. Putting the image back with the image replaced by the command: AndImgTool.exe Boot NewBootimg.img -i

5. Copy it to microSD

6. We put microSD in the tablet

7. Copy back the modified image:
7.1 In the terminal command: su
7.2 cat /mnt/extsd/NewBootimg.img>/ dev / block / nandc
7.3 We are waiting for the completion of copying, after which you can turn off the tablet.

8. Turn on the tablet and:
8.1 We see the desired picture, rejoice, sing songs! : russian:
8.1_odd We see the correct picture, but the colors do not match (for example, instead of yellow - light blue, and vice versa). So you need to change the Red and Blue channels in places (for your firmware, initlogo.rle means not in BGRA, but in RGBA). If the discrepancy is different, then you need to look at the format of the image of the initlogo.rle by loading it into XnView in the Raw format (forcibly set the tablet resolution to it, and by selecting the option of the A R G B combination you will find out the correct format). Then repeat the procedure from point 3.2.
8.1_very_odd We see "garbage" instead of a picture. Most likely, your bootloader only supports compressed images, and then you need to find out the compression algorithm, compress, and repeat everything from paragraph 3.3
8.1_apokalipsis_odd The tablet does not seem anything at all. He's just pretending to be a brick now. The case is severe, but not fatal - instructions for restoring the tablet with factory firmware in the relevant topic will help you. Personally, everything went well for me, but you may have your options, sorry. : blush:

I successfully completed this substitution on a 3Q BC9710A tablet with stock firmware from Explay Informer 921.
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texet Tm-9737W
I needed a tablet with a maximum operating time, without using wi-fi, gps. I deleted all the google software and it started.
Actually wi-fi chip was safely soldered. Akb put on the iPad mini 4400 mAh (Display on the device from the iPad 2, the feeling that I will soon assemble the iPad on the android)
Pasted thermoresies from samsung S3-S4 modules
a photo:
Attached Image

Soldered 2 NAND memory chip, but the device does not see it = (

Post has been editeddnstob - 10.05.15, 09:10
matoSKiN
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Hello to all! I use the tablet texet tm7025 I would like to know how it can be upgraded?))
pskov-igor
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MatSKiN @ 05/18/2015, 19:20*
Hello to all! I use the tablet texet tm7025 I would like to know how it can be upgraded?))


Another battery (or stronger). Well, if necessary, screwed. Who will enhance the wi-fi, who remakes the USB connector. In general, it is necessary to clearly understand what is needed. After comprehend how to do and dig in this direction.
matoSKiN
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* pskov-igorI'm interested in increasing to 1gig oz, and making usb, and I also have only a gray wire from the waffle module and everything (bought in the bu) I understand you need to make and solder the antenna, right? And what kind of firmware is stable? Thank you in advance))

Post has been editedmatoSKiN - 18.05.15, 22:44
reliable1
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04.07.15, 14:15
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Wikipedia says:
The maximum clock frequencies are 1.5GHz for A10 (in practice, they are lowered to 1-1.2GHz) and 1GHz for A13.
Is it possible to increase the frequency of the processor A10? I have 1 GHz


--------------------
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In short, I received a repair for this tablet texet. A problem like this was found to be bad. Wyfi is catching. How can this problem be fixed?


--------------------
matoSKiN
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Gil65lg @ 10.10.2015, 19:27*
In short, I received a repair for this tablet texet. A problem like this was found to be bad. Wyfi is catching. How can this problem be fixed?

What do you mean bad catches? If you mean that some points do not cling and another device clings to them, then this antenna should be made powerful, and if it clings, but either the module or the firmware disappears ... well, I think so
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Dnstob @ 05/10/2015, 09:09*
texet Tm-9737W
I needed a tablet with a maximum operating time, without using wi-fi, gps. I deleted all the google software and it started.
Actually wi-fi chip was safely soldered. Akb put on the iPad mini 4400 mAh (Display on the device from the iPad 2, the feeling that I will soon assemble the iPad on the android)
Pasted thermoresies from samsung S3-S4 modules
a photo:
[attachment = "6239917: image (1) .jpg"]

Soldered 2 NAND memory chip, but the device does not see it = (

I somehow climbed and many wrote that it was necessary to solder the resistors and someone wrote that in the firmware you need to change the line in the file line (build.prop) that contains information about the memory

Post has been editedmatoSKiN - 12.10.15, 00:26
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MatSKiN @ 10/12/2015, 00:19*
What do you mean bad catches? If you mean that some points do not cling and another device clings to them, then this antenna should be made powerful, and if it clings, but either the module or the firmware disappears ... well, I think so

cling wi-fi but immediately after a minute


--------------------
matoSKiN
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Gil65lg @ 10/12/2015 10:02*
...
cling wi-fi but immediately after a minute

Firmware or module, but check for every wire from the module to the antenna, and so I think that it's about firmware

Post has been editedmatoSKiN - 13.10.15, 01:19
Kostyanka911
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MatSKiN @ 10/12/2015, 02:25*
Dnstob @ 05/10/2015, 09:09
texet Tm-9737W
I needed a tablet with a maximum operating time, without using wi-fi, gps. I deleted all the google software and it started.
Actually wi-fi chip was safely soldered. Akb put on the iPad mini 4400 mAh (Display on the device from the iPad 2, the feeling that I will soon assemble the iPad on the android)
Pasted thermoresies from samsung S3-S4 modules
a photo:

Soldered 2 NAND memory chip, but the device does not see it = (

I somehow climbed and many wrote that it was necessary to solder the resistors and someone wrote that in the firmware you need to change the line in the file line (build.prop) that contains information about the memory

Post has been editedMatoSKiN - 12.10.2015, 02:26


1. To solder or not to solder 10kOhm - you need to watch the chains for Nand
2. For correct identification of a newly soldered flash, its ID must be present in the firmware core, otherwise it will be ignored.
3. If you follow points 1.2 - then this is only 50% - the information must also be added to the bootloader - here it can be done without reflashing (the flasher initializes everything himself and if the ID is in the list of supported ones, it will mark and add the long-awaited volume.)

Look for my posts, everything is described there and even there is a video :) (do not judge strictly - there were prazniki and hiking conditions)


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k_nn
Message#518
17.11.17, 13:21
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Guys and you can change the signal level parameters by the program of the engineering menu. I changed the volume levels to Lenovo.

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