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[enotik500]

Amplifier design FAQ
Amplifier design FAQ | Homemade speakers and sound amplifiers

Note: a sample instruction for assembling an amplifier on Burr-Brown OPA microcircuits ishere.
The fundamental difference between the chips in this FAQ:
TDA2822m - for speakers;
TDA7050 - headphone.

TDA2822m based amplifier

general form

pin layout (chip marking up)

chip parameters

stereo power on

bridge start

When the bridge is switched on, only the output power changes:

typical switching circuit

stereo

pavement

visual scheme

Yellow circles with a black symbol - the place to connect the speakers
Gray circles with a yellow symbol - signal input
Pink circles - the place where the wires are connected (wire crosses without a pink circle - this is a wire cross: there is no need to connect them!)

This scheme can be assembled as a mounted installation, and on the board. For this we need the following details:
ChipTDA2822m- 1 PC.
Resistor10 kО©- 2 pcs.
Resistor4.7 ohms- 2 pcs.
Electrolytic capacitor100 uF 16 V- 2 pcs.
Electrolytic capacitor470 uF 16 V- 2 pcs.
Electrolytic capacitor10 uF 16 V- 1 PC.
Ceramic non-polar capacitor0.1 ОјF- 2 pcs.

However, the scheme can work with a minimum set of radio components:
Electrolytic capacitor100 uF 16 V- 2 pcs.
Electrolytic capacitor470 uF 16 V- 2 pcs.

When assembling, let's say a small deviation from the tabular values ​​of parts according to the rule “more is better” (say, instead of a capacitor of 470 microfarads, put 1000 microfarads).
If after assembly the amplifier wheezes - check the correctness of soldering, supply voltage, input power (is the input volume too loud?)
With proper assembly and serviceable radio components, the amplifier can not work. Capacitors have polarity, pay attention to how they are soldered!

TDA7050 based amplifier

general form

pin layout (chip marking up)

chip parameters

typical switching circuit

stereo

pavement

visual scheme

stereo

pavement

Yellow circles with a black symbol - the place to connect the speakers
Gray circles with a yellow symbol - signal input
Pink circles - the place where the wires are connected (wire crosses without a pink circle - this is a wire cross: there is no need to connect them!)

This scheme can be assembled as a mounted installation, and on the board. For this we need the following details:
ChipTDA7050- 1 PC.
Electrolytic capacitor100 uF 16V- 2 pcs.

When assembling, let's say a small deviation from the tabular values ​​of parts according to the rule “more is better” (say, instead of a capacitor of 470 microfarads, put 1000 microfarads).
If after assembly the amplifier wheezes - check the correctness of soldering, supply voltage, input power (is the input volume too loud?)
With proper assembly and serviceable radio components, the amplifier can not work. Capacitors have polarity, pay attention to how they are soldered!

Post has been editedBlack fish - 21.01.16, 18:00

Reason for editing: Added link to BB

[enotik500]

Nemezis-87,
can

[Maverick1968]

Here is a stereo board (with reclined kander) 36x24mm
view:

file:
2822stereo.rar(3.89 KB)

tu Nemezis-87
here is the mono chamber 23x20mm
view:

file:
2822MONO.rar(3.19 KB)



psenotik500
bought small circuits:
DIP-8 - 4g. 1 PC.
SO-8 - 18g. 1pcs (ah @@@ whether !!!)
I took two for each sample :)

Attached images

Attached files

2822stereoSMD.rar(2.35 KB)


Post has been editedMaverick1968 - 18.04.10, 15:59

[flimp]

to jaruto: if you need current to flow in one direction only, put the diodes and check the power consumption

to all: finally, they began to do something similar to the matter, i.e. on textolite. :)
if compactness is required, then go to SMD, it is easy to find analogs of TDA (Google will tell)

ps I will continue to follow the topic, everything is very simple for now, but there is always a chance that I will learn something :)

Post has been editedflimp - 19.04.10, 18:26

[Stiogun]

Many chasing the minimum size of the amplifier (when using third-party speakers, for example, saw photos with motorolovskie) completely forgot about the acoustic box, but just from the E398 it is not very important to sound in a vacuum.

[Maverick1968]

Reached hands and to manufacture amp ...
In the plug of the CF slot did not work: (((
so for now, I’ll just make an amp (full typical circuit on-chip) powered by Akum BL-5C ....
but at the expense of the case and everything else I will think about it later, I just have my own box with speakers from the E398, I have to figure out how to combine it all :)
Part 1
so what we have at the moment:
a program for drawing (and printing) Sprint Layout 5 RUS printed circuit boards (newer version, large database of components)
SLayout_5rus.rar(4.11 MB)

it sketched a handkerchief for SMD components and a TDA2822 chip in a DIP-8 package,
board type:

board file for the program (open in the program and print)
2822full_smd_dip.rar(10.26 KB)

But withInstalling the chip on the side of mounting parts (arched her legs;)) as seen in the photo ...

The board is made using a laser printer and an iron, for the first time I tried, printed a full sheet of copies of the board, spoiled 3 pieces, it turned out on the 4th :)

PS: until I finish (until Sunday), I just haven’t found a house than to charge a fee ... I’ll buy ferric chloride on the radio market, and I will continue ...: yes2:: thank_you:

[jaruto]

: happy: I bought a ready-made amplifier on tda 2003
here is the diagram
and from rconnect I can`t: :(
instead of sound, it constantly rips (
in the audio store they said that the power to it should not be supplied from a battery: '- (

[Maverick1968]

before buying it was necessary to inquire about the supply voltage: yes2:
she has power from 8 to 28 volts !!!!!
standard 12 volts ....


Post has been editedMaverick1968 - 22.04.10, 17:25

[.aliga.]

I'm looking here you have some other schemes,aka "throw out everything"
Did you compare them with the originals in sound?

and also wanted to ask, is SMD elements something better?


Р—.Р« .:
I myself had time to protest only on the TDA7050 (I did it with a hinged assembly) and now I’m thinking about doing 2822 n / a without a laser printer (I simply don’t have it, just a half-inkjet one) ashere

[enotik500]

Maverick1968
you have on the board a sickly earthen loop turned out, look like bi didn’t whistle .....

[pasha_550]

.aliga. @ 22.4.10, 19:59

I myself had time to protest only on the TDA7050 (I did it with a hinged assembly) and now I am thinking of doing for 2822 a station w / o without a laser printer (I simply don’t have it, just a half-inkjet one) like this

a) You can cut it with a cutter (sorry for taftology :)) from a hacksaw blade.
b) Buy a marker. I tried, once a long time ago, with an ordinary alcohol-based felt tip pen - a little tweaked, but still bearable.

Maverick1968 @ 22.4.10, 17:13

I will buy ferrous chloride on the radio market, and I will continue ...

If it burns - buy vitriol, they can also be poisoned:
http://www.radiokot.ru/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3601

[.aliga.]

pasha_550 @ 22.4.10, 20:49

If lit - buy vitriol

againherethere are still several ways to prepare the solution, ferric chloride is the simplest, and you still need to throw salt into the vitriol :)

Post has been edited.aliga. - 22.04.10, 20:01

[pasha_550]

.aliga.
My business is to suggest ...

[Maverick1968]

you have on the board a sickly earthen loop turned out, look like bi didn’t whistle .....

Mmmda .... clicked ....: umnik: I drew a robot at night (I almost fell asleep), and in the morning I agreed to print with a sidekick, at home only a jet ...: blush:
Well, we will try on Sunday-Monday, if sho, then you have to strain the sidekick with a printer ... :)
Yes, and the board is not yet etched .... you can find where the gap zabatsat - like so

SMD elements something better?

sizes: yes2:

Post has been editedMaverick1968 - 22.04.10, 21:56

[enotik500]

Maverick1968
it is better to divide the high-current and low-current ground with an ohm resistor by 10, under the large capacitor to the left of the 2822 inscription it will be placed, then just do not fonit, and there will not be a reddish gap in this case, and solder the input to only one GND terminal!

[[Yuzerok]]

I soldered everything correctly, the amp works NoO! Very quietly this time and 2 I do more, the volume starts to rip, tell me how it can be fixed Speaker (8 ohm 1-2w) Soldered to the bridge by datashit =)

[jaruto]

to user
I Tosh soldered and Tosh very quietly and with a rattle (
soldered according to the scheme for themselves-4 Conder)
can the capacitors be placed incorrectly?
By the way, why on - Conder foodlike a plus should beat? o_o

[[Yuzerok]]

I did according to this schemeI think it may be better to put the condensers? Here is the list of components that I used condensers (10Вµk-2pcs.0,1km-2pcs All electrolytes at 25v) Resistors (4.7 Ohm and 10 kOhm) look forward to good advice =)

Attached images

Post has been edited[Yuzerok] - 24.04.10, 22:33

[[Yuzerok]]

That's how it all looks like =) while without the case above, first deal with the volume

[enotik500]

[Juzerok],
make a stereo circuit and you will be happy! Condenser at the input of at least 100 microfarads, navigate at least 470 microfarads! And just do read the nada!

[[Yuzerok]]

And will it not be louder in the pavement? And I did it according to the scheme, I was also surprised that the capacitors are weak = (well, I'll buy a solder = =)