3D printers (ANYCUBIC MEGA-S and OTHER) | 3D Printers: Discussion, Accessories, 3D Models
Mega-S_Win_Drivers.zip
under the messages to which you want to add links. 
clawhammer2007, I also thought about the two-color seal to nimble, and I think, and is it not possible to do the switch to do with one driver to the extruder? That is, we need to take from somewhere a signal to change the color, and already some kind of handkerchief will be powered from one engine to another. In theory, at first glance, it's just very. By the way, where did the extruder take?
Post has been editedQ.W.E.R.T.Y - 06.07.19, 18:33
No backlash. On the one hand between shafts 41.7mm, on the other - 42.1mm. I tried to align in the height of Z - the crop did not disappear. The line is longer than the shafts and not particularly smooth: (by, infection, y is good, silently.
clawhammer2007,
Stupid, there is just the second motor stuck in the Spear E1, right? Or again something confuse.
Post has been editedb.desconocido - 06.07.19, 18:40
clawhammer2007, Stupid, there is just the second motor stuck in the Spear E1, right? Or again something confuse.
Post has been editedb.desconocido - 06.07.19, 18:40
Q.W.E.R.T.Y @ 07/06/19, 18:32
I also thought about the two-color seal to nimble, and I think, and is it not possible to do the switch to do with one driver to the extruder? That is, we need to take from somewhere a signal to change the color, and already some kind of handkerchief will be powered from one engine to another. In theory, just very. By the way, where did the extruder take?
For 1300, I ordered a set of Motor extruder and B6https: //ru.aliexpress....311.0.0.3ced33edbjvyji.
Splitter put this one, the rest were honehttps://www.thingiverse.com/ting: 3039887.Fittings printed -_-. Purchased turned out to be shit.
Well, and a lot of blood drank stupid in the hotnce from which the tube is hiding without disassembly. At B6 with this better.
Well, Vaughn linked on Prusi Daevis with a colors switch. And so I did not find anything ready. By connecting more than 5 engines on the fee, it is very difficult to find intelligible info.
Everywhere they offer to buy a fee where 6 engines. Multiple colors are bothering. You can make something you can have anything.
They proposed to simply steal part of the signals (en and dir. And the step to each driver), then the pins will need less. But xs how there will be with interference and wiring.
All the same, the most correct 3 signal on 1 driver per 1 motor.
B.Desconocido @ 07/06/19, 18:39
Stupid, there is just the second motor stuck in the Spear E1, right? Or again something confuse.
Yes. Wrapped.
Post has been editedclawhammer2007 - 06.07.19, 19:04
clawhammer2007, And since I propose you can do how many colors, you can even hang a microcontroller on the scarf or even easier, the shift register and everything! You send him the code for a color shift. It is powered by the right color. On each engine of 4 Mosfet, just need, well, on the diode from self-induction emission. Heaps of drivers certainly do not need to be mainly simple and occupy as many connectors. And so it turns out we will reach the connector that goes to the extruder, and stick it into the extension fee, we give the extension fee 5V. Well, a couple of control wiring.
Post has been editedQ.W.E.R.T.Y - 06.07.19, 19:56
Q.W.E.R.T.Y @ 07/06/19, 18:47
And since I propose you can do how many colors, you can even hang a microcontroller on the scarf, send it the code to change the color of the color it is cut to the desired color. On each engine of 4 Mosfet, just need, well, on the diode from self-induction emission.
Well, I'm in electronics weakly a chalp. I know that the possibilities are limitless and there are a lot of options. I can even do something.
But everything rests on minor nuances and features, when for example, you need to hang additional parts to filter all sorts of interference, constantly keep current on the motor so that it does not lose the steps.
No one forbars to make the switches. It is strange that the Chinese have not chained anything. Well, then everything just as you said if you know what you work with.
clawhammer2007, On the extruder it is not necessary to keep the engines, it's so cool! So there, the powerful nutrition is already on them from the driver, no interference is terrible, driver 1 as stood inside, there will remain.
UPD: Damn well here again I caught fire)) I did the auto-level, with the printer I slept, schA, if I got the printer again and decompose it on the table, I'm afraid, my XD will fight him
Post has been editedQ.W.E.R.T.Y - 06.07.19, 19:14
Mechanism @ 07.07.19, 21:53
And how are you doing?
Excellent, has been working for several months, I forgot what the table is calibrated, even the nozzle 0.2 simply launch the seal and everything checked and started typing. I will not disclose the details in the plans to sell it, also my know-how. If everything goes normally, I will run to autumn, and lay out everything and schemes.
Post has been editedQ.W.E.R.T.Y - 06.07.19, 20:20
Q.w.e.r.t.y @ 07/06/19, 19:58
Excellent, has been working for several months, I forgot what the table is calibrated, even the nozzle 0.2 simply launch the seal and everything checked and started typing. I will not disclose the details in the plans to sell it, also my know-how. If everything goes normally, I will run to autumn, and lay out everything and schemes.
Will wait. I hope you will make us a discount. :)
Q.W.E.R.T.Y @ 07/06/19, 15:03
And how do you park the printer? The nozzle is resting right in the table? Or you configure the terminats on the gap from the table. I just, when parking, the snot behind the table leaves, it is convenient to shoot in front of the seal to the table with tweezers.
My park is parked. It is even more convenient because I do not remove anything. Before printing, when calibrating, snot remains on the table in the form of a column.
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Mechanism @ 07/06/19, 23:19
It's even more convenient because I don't take anything
Yes, most likely, and it hangs in the air and there can be a snot, it turns onto a ring and sticks to the nozzle.
Post has been editedQ.W.E.R.T.Y - 06.07.19, 21:34
If someone suddenly a nozzle was clormed, for example, a regular 0.4 mm - and something nothing to be cleaned, I don't want to remove the drill to go far and you don't want to remove the needle from the insulin syringe. It is just 0.4 mm. With uncomplicated clouds copes calmly.
He insulated today its table. Material orderedhere. 260 rubles I had 2 self-adhesive rugs with foil, 30x30 cm (or 20x20 or 30x30). 2 pieces enough to shove heat insulation in 3 layers and will remain a little more. Sent quickly, a little disturbed - but not critical.
Since I wanted to fill in a completely interval under the table, I blew in 2 layers. Top layer of cropping.
But unfortunately, it did not fit. It is possible to tighten in principle, but also the calibration is no longer done normally - there is not enough springs compression stock. And the table becomes a wheel) is not talking about normal printing. Left 1 layer. And be careful, the glue there is some kind of wild. He could not be able to be able to sow, tipped straight pieces of material. Glue remained. The material even remains in the hands.
Without insulation, heating from 23 to 100 takes 11 minutes. With insulation of 8 minutes.
Without insulation, the maximum temperature is ~ 105. With insulation 120.
Without insulation, it is impossible to print even 105, barely holds 103. With insulation, the temperature drops to 118. I think it is quite possible to print on 115.
Since I wanted to fill in a completely interval under the table, I blew in 2 layers. Top layer of cropping.
 |
But unfortunately, it did not fit. It is possible to tighten in principle, but also the calibration is no longer done normally - there is not enough springs compression stock. And the table becomes a wheel) is not talking about normal printing. Left 1 layer. And be careful, the glue there is some kind of wild. He could not be able to be able to sow, tipped straight pieces of material. Glue remained. The material even remains in the hands.
Without insulation, heating from 23 to 100 takes 11 minutes. With insulation of 8 minutes.
Without insulation, the maximum temperature is ~ 105. With insulation 120.
Without insulation, it is impossible to print even 105, barely holds 103. With insulation, the temperature drops to 118. I think it is quite possible to print on 115.
Mechanism @ 07.07.19, 21:53
If someone suddenly a nozzle was clormed, for example, a regular 0.4 mm - and something nothing to be cleaned, I don't want to remove the drill to go far and you don't want to remove the needle from the insulin syringe. It is just 0.4 mm. With uncomplicated clouds copes calmly.
With a printer, the reading is like going? In the flask lying
Or is it not for cleaning?
He drove the backlight of the table in the head.
Everywhere everyone is connected to the motors' connectors, but I have wildly blinking from them
On the left there is a place under the button (some kind) and on its contacts there are clean 12V
Netmaniac @ 07/06/19, 22:37
With a printer, the reading is like going? In the flask lying
Or is it not for cleaning?
Or is it not for cleaning?
Yep. But I had a DEXP MG, this is the Russian version of our. So it did not have. Well, these cleaners, as I heard, break quickly.
Mechanism @ 6.07.19, 22:26
I think it is quite possible to print on 115.
If you print on 115 ABS anyway does not stick to ultrabase? How will collective meat still have?
I ask for something, maybe it makes no sense if ABS can be printed for 90-100 and with all sorts of tap varnishes and ABS juice, and PLA Petg Hips TPU table and so copes without modifications
AWTOSET @ 7.07.19, 6:32
If you print on 115 ABS anyway does not stick to ultrabase? How will collective meat still have?
I ask for what it is, maybe there is no point in warming if ABS can be printed for 90-100 and with all sorts of Tapon varnishes and ABS juice
I ask for what it is, maybe there is no point in warming if ABS can be printed for 90-100 and with all sorts of Tapon varnishes and ABS juice
It depends on what to print. If the plug in the USB port will come so. I will not have time to push the item. And if something is more serious, more, and even flat, a wide bottom - at best, a rocking chair will be. At worst - print will not reach the end.
And do not forget that the regular coating with each seal is increasingly tired.
And it stands to warm. For the sake of nylon in the future, accelerate the warming up and reduce the load on electronics. 100 rubles regret no sense.
Simply a few layers of corrugated cardboard are not much worse than the foam isolate. but free)
Who doubts the effectiveness of thermal insulation - maybe so try.
Who doubts the effectiveness of thermal insulation - maybe so try.
Slavic_Y @ 07.07.19, 10:58
Corrugated cardboard is not much worse than foam isolate. but free)
And if something goes wrong? He will be beautiful to burn.
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