In Explorer: View - Options - Change the folders and search options - the "VIEW" tab - check the box "hide empty disks"

This is in vain. After all

doesn't say anything. Maybe some NVIDIA driver stub is sewn there, and for example, with a standard installation, the installer sees it and skips the installation.

I would clean everything with the name NVIDIA (absolutely everything) by uninstalling the applications, then I would download the last official package from the site’s site and make a clean installation.

BP then what? Maybe his drawdown is coming? These stresses would be for example with the stress test aida.

That is, with three slats it works, but with four, no?
If so, first check the slot (in one of the three work strips into the free slot), and then the strip (in the slot with the work bar stuck in the slot that was pulled out for a successful launch).
That is, either a slot or a bar. You can clean the contacts of the strap with an eraser

I just can’t understand how from two of my cited messages you made conclusions about what I understand in communication standards and even more so because I wrote wrong there?
Explain?

Based on the above information with a probability of 99%, you have celeron with a cap of i5. If you don’t hand it over to the seller, it’s a fiasco.
You won’t achieve anything by updating BIOS, and from your first post, I realized that it was i5 that it was not displayed anywhere except on the cover.
So at least with working celeron, and you’ll play with BIOS, there’s a chance to kill your mother (not to get one more money for flashing the BIOS chip).

These values ​​are the same for the entire line of third-generation CPUs.


It will not be superfluous.

And most importantly, I did not understand. Labeling is one thing, frequencies and the number of cores / threads is another. What does the manager show in Windows? coincides with i5 or not?


Nobody bothers to take the dead from the dead 3570K and stick it on the celec with the aim of selling. Where did you get this CPU?

I thought it was still a bit more expensive (due to the SSD, suitable graphics and desktop execution). I planned to sell it for 19, or expensive.

Otherwise, + \ - I thought so, I wanted to check it, so be sure, in conjecture. The latter only set for 1000 because now few people need it.

I ask you to evaluate three (and a half) setups when selling the whole (in parts there is no desire to fool)
Lenovo Desktop E73 PC
CPU - i3 4160 Socket 1150
RAM - 2x4GB DDR3
GPU - GT530 (2gb)
SSD - Crucial BX 120gb
HDD - WD 500gb (7200rpm)
+ Lenovo Thinkvision T2224pD Monitor and Lenovo 500 Combo-RU Kit

Core 2 Duo E6600 (Socket 775)
P5P41TD (DDR3 version)
2x2gb DDR3 (two more slots are free)
GT240 512mb
500gb HDD
Sticker Win7 Home Basic
block only

Core i3 3220 (socket 1155)
B75M Plus
DDR3 1x4gb (3 more slots available)
GTX650 1gb
1tb HDD
Sticker Win7 Home Basic
Block only

Celeron Dual Core E1400 (Socket 775)
P5KPL-CM
1x1gb DDR2 (one slot free)
HDD 80gb
Sticker WIN XP
Block only

Thank you.

Post has been editedMean122 - 29.07.19, 10:28

Herman91929,
it seems to me that you need to start all the same from the very beginning. After assembling the components, the first thing you need to do is go to the BIOS and see how it gets initialized.
1. We leave only one SSD for the system (it is better not to connect the remaining disks to the motherboard at all if they exist)
2. In BIOS, look at the UEFI boot mode
3. There we check the profile for RAM (most likely the stock frequencies will be), you need to turn on the XMP profile and check that the frequencies declared by the manufacturer of the RAM are set.
4. Just in case, we check that the CPU has determined correctly and the number of cores and threads is shown (I met BIOS a couple of times that cut certain CPUs to one core).
5. We start a clean installation of Windows from the original image in UEFI mode (from a flash drive)

Well, we cross our fingers

good day
Yesterday, a colleague bought Mi Tv 4S 65, brought it home, installed it, turned it on, checked that it was working, turned it off and went to put the child back in half an hour later, but the telly didn’t turn on anymore. The indicator blinks and everything. Disconnected from the outlet, left only power, but still no gestures.
Help advice, I suspect that something elementary. back to the store is problematic to carry.
I found a message that the person set the resolution to 4k and he had exactly the same thing. He says that he inserted a flash drive with firmware and launched it in recovery.
You can read in more detail how to prepare a flash drive, where to get the firmware and how to run TV in recovery.

Post has been editedMean122 - 19.07.19, 10:40

Good afternoon, I need advice from experts.
Recently, I often go on business trips and have to carry a lot of equipment, and therefore power supplies to them. There is an idea to narrow the circle to 1 power supply.
Lenovo T480S working laptop (native Type C unit on 65W 20V)
Personal laptop XPS 13 9360 (native unit is not Type C on 65W 20V) but there is Type C from charging Lenovo charges
Smartphone, power bank and smart watch.
Ideally, buy something like the XIAOMI ZMI 65W BT, 2 USB + TYPE-C, but as far as I can see there is only 12V on Type C, although it is claimed to charge the Macbook Pro and Mi Notebook Pro which have native 20V memories.
At the same time, there is no need to charge two laptops. Enough 1 Type C and two regular USB.
Maybe someone knows models of similar devices? Perfect if they are in Moscow.

For Video Cards, all of the above currently applies only to relatively low-cost options on a short board (1050 1060), they stockpiles of old 550 and other outdated chips. Almost always, cards are not branded, therefore, to avoid the risk, it’s enough just not to take the frank China NoName, just transfer the pictures of the back and front of the card to your phone and just compare it visually. I have never met counterfeit brand cards. It is much more dangerous to buy a card from a service without a pair of power phases or with a crooked chip. Here stress tests most often do not show anything (for sure in the first hour). and few will allow to disassemble a card. Therefore, we carefully look at the screws and if untwisted, then we specify why. As a rule, they say that they disassembled for cleaning, but at the same time the thermal pads can be old, since it is expensive to do in the service, but it is not so important on the sale.
In terms of CPU and delida. Everything is much simpler here. 90% of all scalped CPUs are overclocked options. That is, the market immediately narrows at times. If you still have a desire to buy a used CPU with the prefix K, then it's easier to take your hardware with you or ask the seller to come to you. It is not possible to add to the CPU something that displays it otherwise on an "independent" board.
Otherwise, used memory, disks, etc. are always a lottery, and moreover, due to rapid changes in price, most often the same SSDs on Avito are more expensive than in a store. And the memory can be asked to drive away with a memtest.

The topic is essentially about nothing. In order not to buy avno, it is enough to have a head on your shoulders and understand it a little bit in the gland.

Post has been editedMean122 - 19.06.19, 09:43

In order to advise something, you need to understand what exactly is meant. Photos of the board, block and the candy bar are very desirable.

To modify the printer, you need two 100mm fans up to 16mm thick. Nowhere can I find anything like it. Scythe Kaze does not offer, they are no longer available.

Too much, but given the margin of standards. So the 1066 + i5 6600 works fine on honest 300W.

Tell me please. At a colleague, the child lost boxing. Headphones remained. Is it possible to buy a box separately (found at a flea market) and is it necessary to somehow "pair"?

I’m all want to understand what this marlin is, but I haven’t found any reviews anywhere. I understand that this is some kind of universal firmware for all printers updated. Manufacturers make their own version of the firmware on the basis of this marlin, but do not update and close part of the functions. If this is the case, then I would have asked for the "full" version, but I’m afraid it will be necessary to calibrate the printer later, which causes fear to break something, and I also need to make friends with Octoprint, I print through it.

Is it about firmware with a modified code or custom?


That is, in fact, the stock firmware will work fine with other drivers without problems if you turn the connectors over? (for me it's easier).

Even so.
Can you tell me the principle of their installation? Just flip and everything will be picked up on the firmware or do you need to change something? If so, how?